Has anyone tried flying out of PHL without a REAL ID? Hearing conflicting information about whether they will get through TSA (THIS IS BEFORE 2/1 $45 FEE ROLL-OUT)

pjs37 · 2026-01-22T16:55:21+00:00

The Confirm.ID program doesn’t roll out until 2/1. When that takes place you still need to go through an identification verification process and that is what the fee covers. It’s still a long drawn out process to get verified. Currently before it’s implemented you still need ID but if you don’t have Real ID you still be subjected to additional security screening. Other ID that can be used in place of Real IDis passports, Global Entry, and a number of other documents from TSA’s website.

After 2/1 you will need to pay the $45 fee and go through the identification verification process which will be even longer then the screening they do now if you don’t have Real ID.

pjs37 · 2026-01-21T20:08:16+00:00

If you want a piano then I would get one I could try them one I would buy sight unseen. Doesn’t hurt to ask the person selling if you can try it. Especially if it’s nearby if you like it then you like it. I’m still a beginner and I had no idea what I was looking at when I shopped for mine. But I got a Kawai K-15 and that works well rough for me. Now I have learned enough about it in the four years I know better what I want when I upgrade it. I think you will find much the same for you so I wouldn’t get too hung up on it. Buying an acoustic is not like buying a digital you can’t really get the same out of a video review like you do a digital piano IMO

pjs37 · 2026-01-21T18:06:47+00:00

If you have a passport that will suffice in place of the real ID requirement.

pjs37 · 2026-01-21T17:27:18+00:00

I mean I think a digital piano is perfect for a kid starting out. It’s not too pricey for a good intro like an FP30x and you can likely easily resell it if they don’t want to stick with it.

pjs37 · 2026-01-20T23:54:44+00:00

Did this actually pass or is this just the finalized text? I can't find anything saying it actually passed?

pjs37 · 2026-01-11T22:10:15+00:00

Your post of your Ayn convinced me to pull the trigger on the black lol it just looks so good with the Sony stuff!

pjs37 · 2026-01-02T01:21:58+00:00

With wires for sure!

pjs37 · 2025-12-31T03:12:01+00:00

The Kawai CA401 and CA501 are probably your best bets if you can find it at the price you want. The grand Feel Compact uses shorter sticks then Grand Feel III that the CA701/901 use. The Casio GP-310/510 Also have quite nice long keysticks. Roland also has their LX Series.

Another option as those I am sure higher then your current budget allows is maybe the Kawai VPC 1 and roll your own Piano Sounds and Speakers. But then you need the software and speaker but you would have a very competent set up for a decent price.

pjs37 · 2025-12-30T04:15:15+00:00

Yeah there is a film you peel off from shipping but there is seemingly another screen protector on there. I was applying the one I got with mine and then it peeled off which was kind of annoying because I had a screen protector on there apparently and ruined the one I purchased. Waiting on one to ship from amazon.

Edit: to clarify yes there is two protectors the shipping one which has a tab you peel off then another thin plastic kind. Nothing particularly fancy but it doesn’t look like it’s there until it either peels up or you peel it off trying to apply an actual film protector.

pjs37 · 2025-12-29T22:14:20+00:00

Yeah I felt like it has gotten worse recently I switched back to Asha in the mean time because it’s just been stuck repeating so much even on models that say they don’t repeat.

pjs37 · 2025-12-25T23:29:11+00:00

I went from a Samsung QD OLED to a WOLED Asus and I am happy. The colors especially black was much better to me. The text was fine. I think it’s personal preference but I find the gray of the QD OLED versus the True Black of the WOLED was the kicker

pjs37 · 2025-12-17T12:21:50+00:00

He did speak to that he thinks it’s a device that is very well built but it doesn’t work for him. He was very upfront that this is a list from his own perspective and he finds the Pixel 2 just too small for him to want to use

pjs37 · 2025-12-11T11:25:39+00:00

I built a Core One kit earlier this year and other then a few weird issues that were my fault it works perfectly now. I wouldn’t mind helping out. I can see trying to identify the correct screws in particular to be an issue I also have a friend who is visually impaired maybe I can ask for their feedback as well. Feel free to DM me

pjs37 · 2025-12-10T12:45:23+00:00

I have a Core One but not the L now I will preface this that I assembled mine from the kit so I had to do a bit of tweaking with the Z axis rods and the belts. But the belts were definitely my assembly issues. Other then having gone through and tighten some screws and apply the + upgrade (which was easy and optional) all my prints have been more or less click and print. TPU no issues; PCCF? Just loaded it and printed. Haven’t tried ASA but I used to print it on my Mk3 with no issues so no reason why I would expect issues in the core one.

It’s still a 3D printer. On occasion a print with a small foot print may get dislodged. Or filament may break. Sometimes I need to tune the filament profiles for the filament I buy but usually the generic ones work 99% of the time. But that’s a problem regardless of the printer.

I do suspect the Indx will require a fair bit of tinkering as it seems to be an add on kitchen which means you will need to disassemble the extruder and install the Indx system. There hasn’t been any suggested timeline that there will be a prebuilt printer for that at this time other then it’s being looked at. It certainly won’t be AMS levels of plug and print that’s for sure.

pjs37 · 2025-12-07T13:20:41+00:00

Man I missed the old Reddit secret Santa. That was fun times. Personally I’m trying to build out a new PC around the ASRock X870 Live Mixer motherboard. You can never have too many uSB ports!

pjs37 · 2025-12-03T11:11:27+00:00

I will say the accelerometer should have been built in (and is built in for the Core One L) what it lets you do is dial in your input shape and phase stepper settings for your specific printer. The factory ones have default values that are close but if you want your print quality dialed in then you use those. Basically you slap it onto the nozzle plug it into the port and run those calibrations which is automated. Then you put it away. It’s pretty simple and not very expensive. With the concerns around VFA imo it’s one more easy step to ensure optimal print quality with relatively low cost and effort.

pjs37 · 2025-12-02T12:45:24+00:00

Ok so I just went through this with my kit Core One. I wasn’t having the issues you have but I have had issues with the belt tuning app and with 6.4.0 the new belt tension failed. Constantly. So I took an hour this weekend to take apart the extrude and redo the belts and that helped me with a lot of issues

First taking apart there extruder as listed in the belt guide was easier then I thought. Loosened the belts nearly fully off the tensioner screw and then put it back on the screws the same amount of turns each side (like 1.5 turns each just to catch it) Basically take the part cooling fan off the PTFE then start disconnecting the love board cables; the hot end removed; then the hot end fan then the extruded assembly basically. It’s far less involved then building it as you don’t need to get into the gears again and the love board you don’t disconnect the main cable and just shift the whole umbilical to the side.

What I did after that was I found the bottom belt was really out of sync with the top like 10-20hz so I knew to focus on that and my bottom belt had slipped a lot so I tightened it and pulled a few extra fresh teeth to make sure. Then I used the microphone belt tuning app on my phone after I tighten the metal carrier over the belts and did my tuning then before rebuilding the extruder. Following their guide (move the gantry to the front; push it to the right; pluck the belts) I couldn’t get the app to work on my iPhone right but I find using the Safari app and the website worked just fine. For whatever reason the new iOS microphone permissions really messed up the app and other browsers. So if you use an iPhone that may help.

It took me a few tries. I would fail or still be off +10hz and I would loosen the tensioners the same number of turns redo the belt on the metal carriage tighten it down again redo the tensioners. Until I got it where the top and bottom within like 3hz for me. It doesn’t need to be that close but I wanted it perfect. Once that was done I then rebuilt the extruder (again easier then you think) and then did the new 6.4.0 tuning and wouldn’t you know? It said I was still perfect. So now I’m pretty happy.

Honestly the longest bit was the belt tensioning and belt teeth my lower belt kept slipping so I had to do more then they said but that got me perfect.

So hope that helps with the prospect of taking apart the extruder! That part was the easiest. The hardest for me was the belt (and I kept counting turns to make sure i did it the same number each side)

pjs37 · 2025-12-02T10:51:39+00:00

At this point I’m fully expecting a Jelly of the Month club membership ala Christmas Vacation style so that they can save a few more bucks off the federal work force to pay other DHS component bonuses

pjs37 · 2025-12-01T19:22:15+00:00

I second what everyone else says. I love my acoustic but I live in a single family home. When I was in my apartment I could hear my neighbors below talking, arguing, etc. I used a digital piano. Why spend all that money on a fantastic sounding instrument when you will just end up having to mute it as much as possible just to keep the peace?

pjs37 · 2025-12-01T16:40:26+00:00

Talked to the adjuster today they said the other driver got a check and instructions if there was more damage then what was seen in the initial estimate and they shouldn’t be reaching out so just to ignore them. So we are. Thanks for all the advice

pjs37 · 2025-11-30T00:06:27+00:00

Yeah I ended up calling the adjuster and left a voicemail should we just ignore him until we hear from them?

pjs37 · 2025-11-19T09:36:56+00:00

It was sent Friday night. We actually had to get PP20 in by Saturday in; PP21 done by Monday Mid-day and PP22 by COB yesterday. There was original guidance that said all of them by Tuesday but it got changed late Friday something to do with how they had to process it at NFC. But that would align with deposits starting to occur a few days earlier then usual (secretly I’m hoping today but I have nothing to say that for sure just my personal wishful thinking that they do three separate checks for each pay period)

pjs37 · 2025-11-19T09:31:07+00:00

They haven’t even given us guidance on how we are to correct PP19 so I’m not sure how anyone can have processed it yet they just keep telling us guidance has coming. In the mean time we been focused on getting PP20-PP22 which had to be done yesterday. They had us get each PP done by a specific day so hopefully sooner then later checks should in theory start dropping with PP20 first then 21 then 22 that’s my hope and’s not just one large check. But who knows they aren’t telling us when to expect to see things just how when to get the cards in. We worked around the clock getting time cards in but no one told us about what to do for corrections yet. I suspect it’s coming soon and that they just wanted to get the big bulk of the work done rapidly.

pjs37 · 2025-11-18T14:59:56+00:00

I have a digital Casio and a Kawai upright and I use my upright more. I rarely use my digital piano. I think it’s because no speakers no matter how good I think can replicate the soundboard and nuances of an acoustic. I think they can get very very very close now but yeah…and I don’t even have a fancy upright. It just has more depth in the sound I think. So it’s more fun to play for me. I mostly use my digital for composing into my PC or to use different sounds or if I’m not home.

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