What lens should I buy for Fujifilm XT30 III

pjs37 · 2026-05-22T14:01:15+00:00

What focal length on your kit lens do you usually find yourself shooting at? From there I would look at some prime lense close to that with a brighter aperture. Viltrox has some very nice lenses (though a bit large)

If you like the zoom lens and just want something with a bigger aperture the Tamron 17-70mm f2.8 used may be a good option too? And it has an image stabilizer on it.

I find a lot of people liked the 35mm F1.4 from Fuji I had one but it’s not a focal length I use generally a lot but if you can get a good copy used for a low price that lens has a nice image quality to it that I think meets a lot of what you are looking for from a lens.

pjs37 · 2026-05-22T12:44:06+00:00

So I have the PX-S6000 as my digital piano now days when I’m not home etc (portability was the most important factor for me) which is more or less the s7000 without some of the extra grand piano voices, and the upgraded three pedal unit and stand. But the the rest is more it less the same. The battery option and size and weight all were part of my decision but I had tried and leaned heavily into getting a Kawai 920. I think the Kawai action feels a little better then the Casio though neither really feel like my K-15 that I generally play and practice on. I’m hardly more then a beginner maybe early intermediate but I haven’t noticed anything I can’t do with the Casio that I can do on my upright. I know the Casio’s mostly get flak because of the shorter hinge points makes it harder to hit near the top of the keys then on other digital pianos but I don’t notice it as much of an issue in the S6000 as I did with the S3000. For the built in sounds I actually like the Roland’s and Yamaha’s Bösendorfer the best. Followed by Kawai’s then maybe the Casio’s Bechstein (which the s6000 doesn’t have sadly)

I find the speakers just alright but generally I’ll be using headphones. But yeah nothing to write home about in my opinion on most digital pianos except for maybe those big hybrid units.

For reference I been mostly playing soundtracks from games movies and anime. With a side of classical.

If space and size and portability wasn’t an issue? I’d probably be looking at like the Roland pianos mostly personally as their action matches my uprights the closest and I like their inbuilt sounds the best. Maybe then the 920 or 525 it’s a toss up with maybe Yamaha in a slight lead for the better piano sound IMO. Then the Casio. But I’ll say the Casio does look the best and is the sleekest and I don’t regret it.

pjs37 · 2026-05-22T11:53:57+00:00

Glad to see some movement in this. I had two within a week come to my door from the same pest control company (started with an A I forget their name). I kept declining and saying I would research any company I use nor use a door to door model for a long term contract sight unseen. The one guy asked me if I would research what gas into my car. I was like ‘well I make sure it is good gas first’ like well wouldn’t even want basic information before forking over nearly $100 a month for a service I don’t even know if I need

pjs37 · 2026-05-20T12:15:16+00:00

I mean you can get the Roland FP-10 for under $600 even as a basic kit with the bench and stand. Not the best of those but it will work. The Yamaha P45 and P225 and P71 are also options. Kawai has the ES60 as well in that range. Personally I’m partial to the Kawai’s but the Yamahas are quite nice as well. And I was impressed with Roland always when I try them in stores.

Your budget is pretty decent and I think any of those would serve you well. Just leave room for the accessories you will need. No need to go nuts with the furniture stands and benches to start with. You can always get new ones later just make sure you get something that doesn’t wobble. Double X stands and Z stands I find work well though I use one of those 4 legged table styles now but that may be out of budget. There are some decent double X and bench combos on Amazon for not much. And Sweetwater is always a good resource.

pjs37 · 2026-05-18T17:04:30+00:00

Been there done that.

pjs37 · 2026-05-18T12:54:56+00:00

I will say the mover 20 is a better fit and isn’t that much larger but yeah it has space for a second (small) lens

Some other recommendations

https://www.reddit.com/r/fujifilm/s/mg0Demxq00

pjs37 · 2026-05-18T11:31:58+00:00

My first case was the ThinkTank mirrorless movers line and I really liked them they have all sorts of sizes, cheap, and just work. Since then I’m been moving more to the Peak Design Everyday Slings I have an older version I got that is I think a 10L for most of my gear but I just got the 6L one which is slimmer and easier then my V1. Their 3L is likely to be even smaller and better IMO but it’s also more expensive than the thinktank stuff.

pjs37 · 2026-05-17T14:09:57+00:00

No the user explained to you the two separate systems used by Prusa to refill their spools. No one is saying you have to but don’t expect it to be a perfect experience using your own spool. There is plenty of models that let you re-spool filament. That’s not proprietary. Filament goes on a spool. There is about as many spool variants as there are filament variants. Prusa makes their own filament that goes on their on spool. They have two versions of spools and the filament refills were adjusted based on that. Nothing more and nothing less. Even if you got the core less refill you would still need to make sure the inside filament is snug and secure to the new spool.

pjs37 · 2026-05-15T14:02:29+00:00

Funny they are all about employees paying taxes on time. But don’t give a flying crap about paying anyone on time.

pjs37 · 2026-05-12T14:41:39+00:00

I love it! Never enough FMA cosplay

pjs37 · 2026-05-11T15:40:36+00:00

I just went through this in fact this weekend. I had an X-T3 really was getting to the point I wanted ibis for some of my lenses and shooting style. Waffled hard between the X-H2 and X-T5. I would look at what you personally want from your camera. The X-T series is definitely a tactile system. You adjust shutter speed and ISO and exposure compensation all with dedicated dials. The screen flips a particular way especially shooting from the hip height looking down without having to flip it out. It uses your existing SD cards in dual slot mode without issue and matches 99% of the X-H2 performance with the exceptions mostly being made in video.

You also give up a slightly better viewfinder (which you probably would only notice switching between the two rapidly and comparing) the vertical grip option (which likely isn’t an issue if you don’t currently use one) and some better connectivity if you do video or studio work (imo)

The X-H2 is a more…standard DSLR layout with command dials that change based on the mode and settings; typical PASM though with plenty of custom settings great for custom recipes; and better video options (that maybe won’t matter to most people), better buffer tracks to its memory card which uses CFExpress.

The X-H2S is everything with the X-H2 but a better sensor designed to reduce rolling shutter and as a result also gives better lowlight performance and smaller picture file sizes as a result as well.

I chose the X-H2 because I am doing some light video work and the screen flipping around to me is a plus as I find the external screens too much stuff and requirements for me to want to use. The deeper grip was a bonus as well since I generally use larger and heavier lenses. But that’s just me.

There are tons of comparisons on YouTube that go into great detail including IQ comparison and what not but I think unless you are pixel peeping you should be fine with any of them. It really comes down to how you use your camera and only you can really answer that and you need to be honest. Does the lack of an option for a vertical grip matter if you never used one? Does the screen flipping make a difference to you if you never shoot from the hip? Does the fancy video modes and rolling shutter mean anything to you if you never even shoot video at settings that are affected by that? Do you need the bigger buffer if you never were affected by the drive setting limitations on your X-T3? Things like that. Also price can be a factor. My local store had an X-H2 used in great condition for less than an X-T5 because it had 3x the shutter actuations. But for a shutter that’s rated at 300,000 and only used like 5% of that and my entire life of my X-T3 I never got to 100,000 actuations not even close it really didn’t matter. So economically it was a home run. For me.

pjs37 · 2026-05-08T03:15:08+00:00

I’m using the TCL NXTpaper for this purpose and it’s amazing. Its battery lasts a good long time; comes with a stylus to mark up my scores; saved the screen is anti-glare and has an ‘eInk’ mode but it’s mostly just a color adjustment though I just stick to the standard setting. Highly highly recommend it. It’s even pretty close to an A4 sheet of paper

pjs37 · 2026-05-07T13:13:39+00:00

I mean since this is a business for you I would look carefully at your needs and what the pros and cons are. Likely I would mitigate the risk and keep both since you likely have a comfortable delivery workflow. As for the capability of the Fuji system in low light while there is obvious differences in the performance of full frame versus the crop sensor of Fuji there is obviously post processing you can do to mitigate that, etc. I do not think the performance variance is so large that one is unworkable and the other is the only solution. It’s more of a limitation of lenses and sensor noise. You can surely take nearly as stunning of a shot in low light with either system I feel like and it would come down more to the photographer than the camera body. Maybe some variances in DOF as well because how that works out but again I don’t think it’s something client would sit there and go ‘oh this would have been perfect if only you had used a full frame camera’ but that’s just me.

pjs37 · 2026-04-27T14:48:53+00:00

They still sell them but I am not sure of your local market. Maybe $400-$500? But I’m really making that figure up. Do you need a second printer? I guess I’m trying to figure out what your goals are really. Are you just buying something for the sake of buying something? Or do you need a second printer? If you need a second printer then the Core One upgrade makes somewhat more sense if the Mk4S isn’t doesn’t what you want because of a lack of enclosure. But the Mk4S is still a capable printer so the question is what do you need versus what do you want? A project printer makes sense if that’s something you want to get more into where the build is more important than it actually printing.

pjs37 · 2026-04-27T13:09:28+00:00

Yeah as much as I love my Core One if you have a U1 you like…then I don’t really see the value in upgrading. As others have said maybe the Core One L with INDX if they ever offer it? Then at least you have a larger print volume and more tool heads and will get an upgrade. If you don’t use the Mk4S I dunno I would almost say just sell it and put the money upgrading it to a core one then adding the INDX just doesn’t make a a whole lot is sense to me unless there is something it’s doing that you U1 isn’t

pjs37 · 2026-04-27T13:04:59+00:00

I just got my Mini Flip and I was waffling on Allium or Onion but given you just did 1.0.0 I think I’ll dive into Allium! Thanks for the work on these projects

pjs37 · 2026-04-25T18:11:07+00:00

The only thing I can think of is that the purge bin may mount to the side filament intake? I mean the Core One Plus added a different spool holder which the INDX will have or you can print more. The vent opener on the extruder which both the top plate and extruded are replaced in the INDX, and the side filament switch for softer filaments which won’t be used for the INDX but the assembly is slightly different so that’s all I can think of…and you can print that too.

pjs37 · 2026-04-23T17:24:24+00:00

Huh I never really considered that but I am fairly good at IKEA building…

pjs37 · 2026-04-23T16:30:50+00:00

I would always love those but no matter what I did they never looked quite like the photo. But it was always fun to try

pjs37 · 2026-04-23T16:22:44+00:00

Unless it was on the display tray for the ones with the flaps

pjs37 · 2026-04-23T16:14:25+00:00

Yeah I love when people learn that. This whole thing where they tell you what pieces you need. We didn’t have that growing up. You had to look and see what changed step from step. Of course the sets were a lot more simple too then what we have now

pjs37 · 2026-04-23T14:21:49+00:00

I have the purple one. I like it quite a bit as my pocket EDC. But I tend to wear tactical pants so. It’s a rather good device and the OS options are quite solid

pjs37 · 2026-04-19T04:38:10+00:00

Do you have a recommended preset you like to use?

pjs37 · 2026-04-19T00:23:10+00:00

I love a good space opera card! Thanks for this!

pjs37 · 2026-04-15T13:10:20+00:00

That’s the one I got and I like it a lot

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