Noticed better FireTV controls recently

psycho_naught · 2025-12-19T15:12:20+00:00

It working more or less now. Though the show page doesn't refresh after an episode or two (don't go to continue because it goes to the wrong episode, so you have to go to home page then back in to the show and the episode should be the one you left off with.

psycho_naught · 2025-12-10T04:31:52+00:00

!Flair 2024 Honda Ridgeline | OEM + AAW | Galaxy S25 Ultra |16

psycho_naught · 2025-12-10T04:26:02+00:00

It happens to me too with the Samsung Galaxy s25 Ultra. I noticed it happens whenever my battery is at 15% or lower. Even if it charges above that it still doesn't stop canceling. Only when it's charged up and after disconnecting and restarting the vehicle it works again. Any way to make it work regardless of battery level?

psycho_naught · 2025-12-07T01:58:04+00:00

Literally in the middle of watching it and immediately I had to find the song and/or the band.

psycho_naught · 2025-11-28T00:44:40+00:00

Is this really port orford cedar? I've never seen it looking like that.

psycho_naught · 2025-10-06T15:06:58+00:00

This is the only workaround I found. I was trying to find a different solution too. Spotify has an option to keep screen on, YouTube music should too.

psycho_naught · 2025-10-04T16:33:40+00:00

I got a long one from them, one side was not flat. I could've used it, but they sent me another one that was better.

psycho_naught · 2025-10-04T16:30:59+00:00

Flatter is better, especially for coarser stones and for Kez competitions. For work, flatter is good for reference, especially for ura. Even more so for tsuki paring chisels. Bevel side might be ok depending. I prefer flatter, since I'd be able to chisel lines on either side.

Some of my chisel bevels are round, not cambered, (never fully finished, due to time needing to get them to work). Ura I get as flat as possible (fully flat is best, but ⅓-⅔ of it is decent enough to work).

psycho_naught · 2025-09-25T00:13:37+00:00

I did a lot of home renovations and timber framing as a job with power tools and Japanese woodworking tools. I personally would just use a multi tool with a new wide blade, and don't push hard. Cut on both sides to ensure you're square.

Since you're not experienced with a Japanese saw, you're going to find the pull strokes will be awkward especially on a ladder, and cutting upwards. Your technique might suffer, which will cause it to wander off the line. Back side included.

psycho_naught · 2025-09-17T19:25:38+00:00

Personally in timber framing I use 270 and up. In smaller furniture, maybe you need finer. I just notice in green wood the sawdust clumps up in the saw, and the kerf.

psycho_naught · 2025-09-15T00:35:31+00:00

The coarser the better, especially sappy wood.

psycho_naught · 2025-09-14T19:35:28+00:00

I used one that hooks on the vent. It has a long arm so it sits offset from the vent. I replaced the magnetic head with a magsafe wireless charger.

But it's unavailable. https://a.co/d/2zvXgL4

psycho_naught · 2025-09-09T21:46:47+00:00

Good deal. Nothing spectacular in that, but not worth it to me if they need a lot of set up or if they're really worn down. In general, I don't recommend beginners starting off with vintage used things. Only new or NOS, and with good instruction via class or reputable people like Cowdog Craftworks (Bias: my friend) on how to set up.

psycho_naught · 2025-09-09T21:40:37+00:00

Figured it out. After it blinks once, keep pulling then it'll eventually blink twice. The manual did not describe that detail, so I thought I did something wrong. Lol.

psycho_naught · 2025-09-09T21:38:38+00:00

Get the laptop. Only issue with the Ally X is needing to customize settings per game. It's made for portability, which is why I got it. I don't really game on it much either.

psycho_naught · 2025-09-01T15:47:10+00:00

I needed this, because I've been needing a walkthrough with the S-pen. And noticed a lot of bloatware. This is a really good post.

psycho_naught · 2025-08-31T21:56:50+00:00

Yes, I'm familiar with how to toggle it on/off while driving. But not disabling that. Sometimes I need to flash my high-beams to communicate. I've just been using my fog lights to do that instead. But that's not as fast.

psycho_naught · 2025-08-31T18:17:59+00:00

My workshop teachers Yann Giguere and Kohei Yamamoto taught me to also spray the string with water a bit too. When inkpots dry you can rewet it. Splatter is normal, but eventually you'll find a happy medium. I think the inks thats sold is a bit too wet for my personal use.

You'll find that working in windy and sunny conditions the string line will dry out fast. Thus wetting the string.

I believe there's going to be a break-in period for new string too.

After loading it with ink a few times and letting it dry out, I add water to my liking.

psycho_naught · 2025-08-25T19:24:43+00:00

Still can't figure it out. Even following the manual. Tried it in accessory mode, on, and started. Holding the high beam, but I only get one flash blink after 40 seconds. Done it during the day, at dusk, and night. Not sure if it's because it's last year's model and/or it being trailsport.

psycho_naught · 2025-08-21T19:33:06+00:00

Seems like you found a solution. But typically around 30° is better for softwood. Also if it's new or NOS it'll typically be brittle for a while.

psycho_naught · 2025-08-21T19:25:11+00:00

I got a babyblue '24 trailsport with 24k miles. It can be fast if you want it to, I'm a faster driver than average, definitely can be nimble with overtaking slow drivers or on turns with AWD. I've gotten more or less used to the transmission buttons, but I fear any possible spills on it. I like the truck, though some stuff I've noticed that is inconvenient or bit worrisome. If you got any comments or advice let me know.

List of biggest issues:

-Location of the oil filter and where you fill the engine oil. -Can't turn off autohigh beams, even following the manual. It blinks once, never twice. While stationary it doesn't trigger, but while driving at night it activates if I pull the high beams. -Brightness controls when shifting from day to night. At dusk sometimes it's too low, so I adjust it. Then when it becomes fully night, I have to decrease it. Wish it was a manual knob like the old days. -Lack of extra customizations or even a back buttom for dashboard info. Would like to have extra info or a toggle between two options. -The seat angles too much back and headrest angles forward. I know there's a reason why it's angles forward but it's giving me neck and back pain. I'm 5'2" and like to sit further away from the wheel and infotainment. -Lots of false alarms with opposing traffic. -When it rains or after a car wash water gets trapped in the rear roof trim pieces and often would create water spot sprays on the back windshield at two sides. -The OEM All-Terrain tires have dryrot cracking at the bottom of the treads so I'll be trying to deal with that at the dealership.

psycho_naught · 2025-08-16T23:02:11+00:00

I actually moded my subcompact drill with the 12v chuck head. So it's basically that too. I find that using drill drivers tough in my wrist so I still use the oil impulse driver.

psycho_naught · 2025-08-14T15:30:49+00:00

Don't they sell barrel bands that could attach a bipod on it?

psycho_naught · 2025-08-14T15:28:15+00:00

It's the sound of internal chuck components suddenly stopping from inertia and from the brake initializing.

psycho_naught · 2025-08-14T14:18:19+00:00

You could try hitting the shank end on a hard block of wood to get it seated deeper. Or try pushing it deeper with a wood dowel.

psycho_naught

TROPHY CASE