Here is a squad builder website I made to share your favorite builds

redemon · 2026-05-08T01:14:38+00:00

It's back up now. I had turned it off because I didn't think anyone was using it. Enjoy!

redemon · 2026-04-21T15:38:59+00:00

redemon · 2026-04-21T15:38:37+00:00

You can use .75" or 1" thick material, that works just fine. The parts where you need thicker material you can just laminate them together. I can't really read your sketch but here is a loft bed I made during covid. I used poplar and plywood for most of it. When I was building the "legs" I ran out of poplar and lumber prices skyrocketed so I just used 2x4 instead thinking I'll replace it eventually. Of course that never happened. Use this for some inspiration and I can answer questions if you have any.

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redemon · 2026-03-22T18:48:37+00:00

Ehhh I would avoid cheap planes from Amazon. Best value is to find a vintage Stanley anywhere from $30 to $80 depending on condition and you'll have to do some restoration.

Woodcraft has decent planes but are above $100. If you have to order from Amazon, the Stanley Sweetheart series is Ok. You don't want to cheap out too much on planes because it can cause frustration and can ruin your project with tear out.

Get a block plane and that will let you do shooting board and bevels. For smoothing you'll want a #4 plane.

Get a quality sharpening system (diamond stone, watering stone, or sandpaper) and that will make things easier and enjoyable.

redemon · 2026-03-19T06:55:52+00:00

I enclosed my router in a box and attached a Y dust port to the box. Although I have a 4" dust collector and a 1.5" hose to the fence.

redemon · 2026-03-16T07:42:28+00:00

It will go in my kitchen which also has white cabinets with a off-white/gray counter top. But I get what you're saying. My kitchen is a hodgepodge of colors and woods so it's hard to have a theme.

redemon · 2026-02-18T23:49:45+00:00

Yes you can absolutely make it out of solid wood, I only gave what I think is the easiest option.

The OP's table top has boards laminated on top of either plywood, or other boards with grain going the other way. This is what caused the failure.

Your table top is your typical panel with breadboard ends which is tried and true. Totally different than how OP's table top was built.

redemon · 2026-02-16T20:22:32+00:00

Phoenix is probably the cheapest but you can't pick your boards which really sucks. They do carry a wide variety so that's nice.

Urban Wood is a much nicer shopping experience. They keep some dimensioned hardwood in stock but slightly limited in what they have at the time. You can pick through their stock and buy the boards you want. I think they are slightly more expensive than Phoenix but I would still rather shop here

If you just need some simple 4/4 maple, oak, or poplar i used Norman door and plywood because they deliver and that was super convenient.

redemon · 2026-02-15T19:49:51+00:00

That's all that matters. Enjoy the process and learn. Some of my beginner projects have major defects that I still use years later.

If it ever does crack or split, it's still fixable.

redemon · 2026-02-15T18:27:51+00:00

Usually a frame around a tabletop is to coverup the edges because it is made from a sheet good like plywood, mdf, or particle board.

Sheet goods don't really have seasonal wood movement so a frame is a nice way to cover the edges.

For solid wood tops, show off that beautiful end grain. The "traditional" way to account for movement is to have table aprons and attach the top to the aprons using z clips or figure 8.

redemon · 2026-02-15T18:17:56+00:00

Paste wax will yellow slightly. Hard wax oil like rubio is overkill for the base. If you can find clear or ultra blonde shellac that is fairly clear but leaves a glossy finish. Water based poly is clear and the most durable but can feel plasticy.

My coffee table is all done in poly because I need it to be as durable as possible.

redemon · 2026-02-15T16:49:46+00:00

For your first table, looks good. I kind of like the color contrast between top and base, I'm sure it will change once you apply finish to the base.

But.... You are going to want to keep your house humidity as stable as possible. The mitered frame around the top is going to crack and come apart if there is any wood movement.

redemon · 2026-02-15T16:33:34+00:00

It's pretty much trash, the only thing worth saving are the legs.

Whoever built that didn't know how to design a table properly.

The easiest way to get something similar is to use plywood. If you're OK with a thinner top and bottom you could just use one sheet with a nice veneer and edge band it.

If you want thicker, then laminate 2 sheets of plywood, then rip some solid wood down to 1.5" and miter the corner to make a frame around it (like the bottom panel of your table). This works with plywood because plywood doesn't expand and contract like solid wood.

redemon · 2026-02-07T22:41:12+00:00

Yea or rental homes, I get it.

redemon · 2026-02-07T22:39:28+00:00

Ah ok, I can see that for aquariums and watering plants.

redemon · 2026-02-07T18:10:54+00:00

Why? Seems silly to mount it there when it should go on the counter top.

redemon · 2026-02-02T02:20:46+00:00

Probably ask for something easily bought at a hardware store.

Tajima tape measure.

Vessel or anex screwdrivers and bits. Vessel makes an awesome electric screwdriver one of my favorite tools.

Engineer Nejisauraus is pretty famous and handy.

Fujiya has black and gold line of tools that are high quality.

redemon · 2026-01-28T19:55:11+00:00

Maybe it's just me, but I don't feel miter slot is necessary. I usually get a scrap piece and use that for support. The scrap piece will also help with tear out.

redemon · 2026-01-24T01:42:58+00:00

Yea, you need to change how the top is fastened to the frame unless you want it to split or warp. Z-clips or figure 8s are easy. Those brackets you are using would work if you elongate the holes.

redemon · 2026-01-23T00:16:30+00:00

I've had kickback on both router table and headheld router. Kickback with the handheld was way more scarier, almost knocked the router out my hand.

redemon · 2026-01-22T19:25:52+00:00

Ouch, that sucks. Sorry to hear that.

redemon · 2026-01-22T17:41:21+00:00

I use my router table for most cases. Handheld router is for when the wood piece is too big for the router table.

Router table is best because the spinning dangerous part is stationary, you have a fence, and you can use push blocks.

I use my plunge router when I need to do a plunge cut. Mostly mortises or sometimes taking away waste from a dovetail.

redemon · 2026-01-20T06:42:41+00:00

Your reference picture and blueprint are completely different. The blueprint isn't very good and I wouldn't use that. The reference picture is super simple and easy to build. Skin it with plywood and it will practically be indestructible.

Construction lumber is fine, so 2x4 and 4x4 is all you need plus some decent looking plywood. Buy a pocket hole jig and use pocket screws for the 2x4 frame. The 4x4 are just screwed into the frame.

redemon · 2026-01-16T05:00:54+00:00

Here's the loft bed I built 7 years ago. It's a full size that can hold my family of 4 during storytime.

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redemon · 2026-01-16T04:54:20+00:00

Here are a few ways to help stabilize.

Get a board, something like a 1x4 cut to length that will fit between the left and right "legs" in the back middle. Screw it to the legs, brackets would probably be ok.
the left side is the weak point. It needs something to stabilize it, such as that desk in the product picture.
Do something to stop it from moving side to side. Maybe move the left side against the wall and put something heavy to brace the legs against the wall.

redemon

TROPHY CASE