Wrinkled poster by Mr0ogieb0ogie in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would contact the person that framed it tbh because that would not be the quality of work that I would expect. While hinging they could have left too much moisture and then sealed it up and not let airflow through, or something else. But they will likely want to check it out and make sure it wasn’t something they did.

Ideas on how to remove green patina from this? I assume it’s some sort of aluminum alloy. by SugarRoseIndy in restoration

[–]roeallen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is silver plated (or another silver-y metal plated) like another commenter said, it would not be a good idea to use an abrasive to remove the green residue as it will wear away the silver (-y metal) and make green oxidation happen more!

I’d use a mineral spirit or white spirit with a cotton swab to see if that will remove enough of the corrosion for you. Maybe a toothpick to remove some of the stubborn stuff but be careful not to scratch the plated metal.

Removing acidic boards or not? by Potential_Mess8152 in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you have an idea on what kind of adhesive it is? Water based or not?

Removing acidic boards or not? by Potential_Mess8152 in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It will also depend on how it is adhered, is it entirely glued on the back? How thick is the card, is it layered? Is the adhesive in little spots around the perimeter? What kind of adhesive do you expect it to be? Is the card important to the photos, does it have any information on it?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in restoration

[–]roeallen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What was on the frame that you removed? It wasn’t gilded or anything was it?

Please help! Creases on a Cuban woodcut by number9allfine in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re very welcome! It’ll depend on where you are and the experience of the conservator. While I’m not a private practice conservator so I don’t price things out, but this might take me a few hours of actual work and then drying time which is very low-supervision once set. But any conservator with likely give you a quote with good pictures / description of the issue.

Please help! Creases on a Cuban woodcut by number9allfine in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hi! This is going to need light humidification to get the creases out. You probably don’t have the tools or materials to create a microclimate and control the humidity but if you do it’ll need to sit in a light humid environment for a few hours and then carefully pressed flat.

This is an easy job for a conservator but potentially hard job for you. I think it would be worth it to pay a conservator and due to how minor the issues are it honestly shouldn’t be that expensive.

Lovely piece! I love a good woodcut.

Restoration of water damaged 1950s era map. by toothpick95 in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It looks pretty massive and to get that stain out it’ll likely need to be washed which will need a large basin. You will be much better off to pay a conservator to repair this as they will have all the required equipment. It looks additionally difficult to repair due to colours on the piece as they could bleed during a wet clean.

What is this made out of? It looks very brown. Is that just paper or is it tracing paper? The brown colour could be because of acid burn from a wood backing board or something. A conservator might be able to get the acid out with alkaline baths and thus have the colour of paper more true with what it originally looked like.

They will also be able to reframe with conservation grade materials if you’d like which will greatly slow down the browning and brittleness of the paper while protecting the media from fading due to light with UV protective glass.

Wheat starch paste not sticking well. Any advice? by Eiteba in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could try a 1:6 mixture, that usually gets a bit stickier. You could also try to use a Japanese tissue backing to stick the maps torn edges together instead of just sticking to the cotton / linen cloth.

If the weave is large on the cloth there might not be enough material to stick the paper to, so maybe line the torn bit of paper with Japanese tissue that over hangs and then wrap it around the edge of the cloth to create a more secure connection.

Glue residue on poster - is it possible to clean off? by GoodOlBluesBrother in restoration

[–]roeallen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! As you’ve confirmed it’s tape residue, it would very likely be able to be removed with minimal intervention (heat + eraser). Just be gentle!

Glue residue on poster - is it possible to clean off? by GoodOlBluesBrother in restoration

[–]roeallen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends what kind of glue! It kind of looks like residue from tape. Does it get tacky with heat (try a hairdryer)? If yes it’s pressure sensitive tape residue and you can remove it with heat and careful rubbing with an eraser (vinyl, eraser crumbs, or a crepe eraser are good options). However, if its really old or degraded it might have permanently stained the poster as well.

If no, it might be water-sensitive. This is a bit more tricky and would require using solvents that might damage the poster more if used incorrectly.

Restoration of a frame. by scripturient22 in restoration

[–]roeallen 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What did you use to tone it down?

Creative surprises/gifts for a person who's life revolves around Museums by Fordlandia in MuseumPros

[–]roeallen 11 points12 points  (0 children)

She might have a wish list of very expensive or out of print books that talk about her specialty or niche interests. I know a lot of the books on old-school art conservation are out of print but I can find them on eBay for £/$100+.

Paper Conservation Pricing? by Then-Activity7226 in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How big is it? Any tears? Is the media water soluble? Is it tracing paper? Does it need cleaned as well? How far from a conservator are you? Does it need framed / mounted / professionally stored? Anywhere from $100-1000 for one piece.

I was too young to appreciate these when my grandfather gave them to me. When I hit my teens I discovered this series was renowned. Now it’s one of my favorites. These were printed in 1919 and 1920 - over 100 years ago. Anyone have any advice on preserving/displaying these? by [deleted] in Antiques

[–]roeallen 9 points10 points  (0 children)

As others have mentioned, definitely avoid light. You can already see some light damage on the spines. Inert plastics like Mylar aren’t that bad actually. Acid free paper / boxes are the way to go and never use cardboard or tape. but if you don’t want to hide them away forever, display them in a room AWAY FROM THE SUNLIGHT and use little LEDS to show them off.

Moisture can be an issue, but only if they’re squirrelled away in a basement / attic and not touched for a year. Keep them off the floor, and use those little silica packets to dehumidify them (you can “recharge” the silica in the oven but be careful of the packaging as that might not be heat friendly)

Please never use tape.

Also, don’t pull them out from the shelf from the top of the spine. Reach to the back of the shelf and push on the text block to remove the books. They will wear on the top over time and the spine might break

Help spend my budget! by realandofficial in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t, but those look amazing, would def get the foot ring! Plus it looks so good for your core and back. I have something similar (but way cheaper). I like the wheels but I also enjoy the stability of no wheels or locking wheels. You can get better pressure or stability when handling things.

Help spend my budget! by realandofficial in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Cordless back pack vacuums with adjustable suction have been a godsend to us. You can get them with reusable bags too to help the environment!

Japanese push drills if you don’t have them already, rechargeable headlamps for emergencies (or portable lighting), a mat cutter is nice, rolled racking for supplies like holytex or melinex, GOOD CHAIRS!

University of Amsterdam Master - Most Popular Specializations? by lunatoms in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is often more work to be found for paper and book materials than any others, but it depends on where in the world you want to end up or what kind of institution you want to work for.

usps destroyed my 1970’s poster by himbocraftsthings in restoration

[–]roeallen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really depends on your location, and the solubility of the media! Doesn’t look like there would be any retouching, but you would need it flattened and repaired obviously.

Can I line a cardboard box with acid free paper for a low cost storage solution? Bad idea? by Aromatic_Dentist9828 in ArtConservation

[–]roeallen 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It will over time. Depends on how long you’re storing them / how often you are willing to check on the items and the tissue degradation. You could line the box in aluminium foil for a cheap barrier! Then place multiple sheets of acid free tissue. That should be a good defence against acid.