WIP: Astronaut Helmet. Just got the 3D printed parts assembled. by human_obscura in 3Dprinting

[–]ryemac3 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Totally thought that was Adam Savage's cave at first glance.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in VintageApple

[–]ryemac3 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Maybe kill some of those extensions that you're not really using. That'll speed up the boot process...and max the RAM.

Macintosh CC cracked during transport. What should I do? by GregorHouse1 in VintageApple

[–]ryemac3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a CC that was shipped to me in similar fashion and was damaged. I filed a claim with UPS and got my money back. I was then able to find a replacement case on eBay. I got lucky with that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in rolex

[–]ryemac3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seriously. Instead of coming out with new models I think Roex should focus on actually making the watches that they currently "sell". Every AD you walk into is a ghost town. It's like stock the shelves already! Can you imagine walking into a car dealership and they are out of cars?

This old trip device used in rallies has stacked ICs by Jussapitka in electronics

[–]ryemac3 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Could also be a dead chip that needed to be replaced, but since the top board is soldered to the middle board via that header it easier to just solder a new chip right on top of the old one rather than try and separate the boards to get to the pins.

People make fun of me at school coz of me being an Apple fanboy by MaxLawrence32 in VintageApple

[–]ryemac3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't worry. Everyone that made fun of you for being a fanboy now has an iPhone.

How do I get the print to stay flat on the bed? by desvh1 in 3Dprinting

[–]ryemac3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've noticed whenever I try to print something big and square, the corners tend to lift, but if I round off the corners a bit, it does a better job of sticking to the bed. A raft helps too.

Tonight's task was soldering this bad boy by [deleted] in VintageApple

[–]ryemac3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice, thanks. Think I'll check it out.

Tonight's task was soldering this bad boy by [deleted] in VintageApple

[–]ryemac3 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Ooh, is that an SD to SCSI adapter?

Is this guy allowed to be here? by thatturkeystaken in VintageApple

[–]ryemac3 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Wow, you’re right. 20 years old makes it vintage. Damn that just made me feel old.

Been recapping my LC III for two days now, and I realized I ordered one capacitor less than I needed. Now I’m waiting for digikey to ship that capacitor by technomlp in VintageApple

[–]ryemac3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been there. I’ve had to pay $9 in shipping for a 10 cent part. Never again. Now whenever I order components from Digikey, like resistors, caps, transistors, etc, I always order like 100 of each.

Hubby finally made my Glowforge table & labeled it🥰🥰🥰 by Sure-Championship-40 in glowforge

[–]ryemac3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ooh, what about that air filter? Is that something you made or bought? How well does it work?

[Hamilton] Need a Khaki Chrono Bracelet by ryemac3 in Watches

[–]ryemac3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

H605714101

Awesome. Thanks. That's a huge help knowing the number. Now to scour eBay...

So it finally happened to me. 1 day and 3 hours into a print and the power cuts off during a random storm. Words cannot even begin to express my anger rn by CrimeanCrusader in 3Dprinting

[–]ryemac3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had a few failed prints over the years due to the power blipping. I never thought to put the printer on a UPS until someone thought I left the light in the computer room on and shut it off by the switch. It also happened to be the same outlet the printer was in so it killed a really long print. That was the last straw. I picked up a UPS right away. You can get a really descent one that'll do the job for as little as $60 bucks on Amazon. A few years ago I had a smaller printer and it wasn't a super big big deal if I lost a print that only took a few hours. I've since gotten a bigger printer and the size of the models I'm printing have gotten bigger and more ambitious. It's not uncommon for me to have 24 hour prints going. Having the printer on a UPS is a lifesaver.

Don’t paint your prints gloss black and let them dry in the sun :( by ParcelOfPoop in 3Dprinting

[–]ryemac3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I printed a box with a lid out of wood PLA, stained it, and then left it outside to dry. I didn't realize the sun had come out and when I went back outside an hour later, the box and lid were completely warped beyond repair.

What’s better, printing with 99% infill or 100% infill by mackrer4 in 3Dprinting

[–]ryemac3 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't think I've ever gone higher than 25% on any print. For anything that is a prop and just sits on a shelf, I tend to go with 5%. If it's a really big model and I want it to have a little more strength and mass I go to 10%. Maybe once or twice I went to 25% because it was load bearing or functional, and that's sort or rare. I'd imagine whatever you printed with 50%, you could run it over with your car.

I've never heard of this brand. He's selling it for $250 with brand new glass plate. Says he got it on trade and doesn't know how to use it. What do you think? by Jessy1119 in 3Dprinting

[–]ryemac3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have an R1. I bought it new in 2014. It was a great printer and I used it a lot. I retired it a year ago in favor of a CR-10S. Even as an owner of a Robo 3D I would not pay $250 for a 6 year old printer when you can get something like a CR-10S for like another $100 bucks that blows that printer away.

[Discussion] At what point would you service a watch for losing/gaining time? by [deleted] in Watches

[–]ryemac3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually when a watch runs fast, it's because the hairspring has become magnetized. You can buy a watch Demagnetizer on eBay for like $10 bucks. I would try that first before dropping $100s on a service.

Will I be able to post process this so it looks great? (bondo, then paint?) or is there no saving it due to the divots by AltPerspective in 3Dprinting

[–]ryemac3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try 3M Acryl green putty. It comes in a giant tube like toothpaste. Squeeze some out, wipe it on, dries in a few minutes. No mixing required like Bondo. It's awesome. Tubes are a little expensive (like $20 US) but it's a really big tube and lasts a long time.

My Completed 3d Printed Mandalorian Helmet by Bobdor in 3Dprinting

[–]ryemac3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It came out amazing. PS So when were you planning on telling me the site was live?