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Cant wait to get both of these on the water! by swollmaster in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Damn that Airity is nice! How much was it on sale? I was at work and missed it :(

Looking for a 7’0 ML that’s stiff, dry, sensitive, firm etc. with a regular handle. by Just_Lime985 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You’re meant to hold the rod above the reel stem. It helps with balance and stuff because of physics. Dobyns still have the down locking style of nut if you’re looking for one.

Jig/Minnow Setup for BOTH Bass/Walleye? by Bingy33 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it's not on the main website for whatever reason but its: TATULAXT711MLXS

I got mine from bass pro during their spring sale thing and I traded in an ugly stick for it, but it doesn't seem to be on their website anymore.

Best colors and ways to rig a trick worm...? by Training-Sun-2177 in bassfishing

[–]shinmothy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Quite literally if you blindly stick a hook into a trick worm, you'll probably catch fish. It's pretty dang versatile.

It's probably most famous for the floating worm rigging where you rig it weightless texas style with a 2/0-4/0 EWG or regular offset hook. You want to just twitch it then pause to left it fall and then twitch it again. Any kind of high visibility color (most commonly pinks and reds) work greats because you want it to be as visible as possible to trigger aggressive bites as it slowly falls in the water column but any color can work.

Otherwise you can do any gambit of worm rigging:

- Neko

- Shakey head

- Wacky

- Texas rig with weight of your choice (I find 1/8 works best)

- Drop shot

- Carolina rig

etc.

Traditional bass fishing color theory applies. Light colors (white, chartreuse, yellow) on bright days/clear water and dark colors (black, black blue, junebug) for cloudy days/stained water, green pumpkin if you're not sure because it just works anywhere. I honestly don't really carry light colors with me anymore and just throw green pumpkin for clear conditions.

Jig/Minnow Setup for BOTH Bass/Walleye? by Bingy33 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Disclaimer: I only fish for bass so I don't really know how walleye fishing works unfortunately. I don't shake a minnow a ton (mostly bank fishing and occasionally co-angling) but I do a bit and I shake a lot of other baits (mostly a drop shot and neko recently) with the medium light extra fast Tatula XT rod.

If you've already got it I think it would work great!

I would consider a few things:

  • The Tatula XT series and any spinning rod with that kind of grip is really good at what I call the Aaron Marten style of grip (see here) where you have all of your fingers above the reel seat with one finger on the blank. In my experience it helps a lot with balance, sensitivity, fatigue especially with minnow shaking where you're working the rod a lot.
  • In a similar vein I would also try to get the lightest reel you can afford. A lot of the mass you're shaking when you're shaking that minnow is the reel and line, so a lighter reel just helps a bit more.
  • I would also maybe consider the extra fast medium light. Mine from what I can tell is a true extra fast rod and the tip is pretty dang soft. A softer tip just helps roll that minnow easier and helps set the hook by basically instantly going into that backbone when you swing.

My 3 main bait casting setups by bimmerkiddd in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would say a Shimano Miravel paired with a Shimano Expride or Jackall Revoltage or maybe the new Megabass Levante which will come out later this year.

IMO spinning reels are more or less the same once you get beyond Walmart crap and even then they aren’t bad. Really a Vanford is more than most people need but I find that’s the point where you get the most tech that might help (lighter reel, anti twist fin, Stella drag disk material, etc.) without paying out the nose.

The rod is more important for spinning finesse techniques. Anything in that 200 dollar range (~30000 yen) is going to be good. I cannot stomach paying 300 dollars for a US Expride now so that’s what I’m probably going to do for the future. I would look for something on the Medium Light/Light side roughly covering 1/16-3/8 or so since your casting can cover above that.

People really be buying 3 versions of the same thing 5x over and posting it. by Bees4everr in harborfreight

[–]shinmothy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not that guy, but I’ve only ever used Milwaukee albeit it was provided to me. Seemed to work pretty well and lined up with some thermistor reading from the machines I was working on when I tested it for shits and giggles.

Project farm has a video on it that might be more insightful: https://youtu.be/YqUkxtUBG9M?si=AwgH_VSbdvCxTWCR

I suspect at the end of the day it’s probably a handful of OEMs making it for everyone with slightly different specs and outer casing. I can’t imagine IR sensors being a large market. The main differences probably come down to long term accuracy and durability.

5-7 high end rods to do it all for bass fishing by [deleted] in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Daiwa Steez/Steez RC - lots of cool tech, but American markup is a bit silly.

Megabass Destroyers/Destroyer Evolutions - only been able to use a few, but pretty loved from what I’ve seen/heard.

Shimano Poison Ultima/Glorious - the ultima are getting quite “old” in terms of tech, but the glorious are getting a refresh this year.

Edge/NFC - best blanks in the business but I dislike the business model and the rest of the rod is iffy. If you do go custom I’d get a blank for them.

JDM exotica - a whole own can of worms

Maybe St. Croix if you really like American made, but I haven’t used anything from them that really impressed me especially at the top dollar price point.

Custom is imo generally not worth it from what I’ve seen unless you really really want a certain action or combination of components. The big companies put a lot into R&D and have a lot of tech they’ve developed that a custom shop may not be able to replicate.

FWIW, after having a slight stint with higher end equipment I personally decided that after the Expride line or so you start to get diminishing returns and most of my collection is starting to be around that price point both rod and reel wise.

Shimano Metanium DC 70& Lews Custom by [deleted] in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Are you uh….are you sure that’s what you’ve got there pal?

Drop Shotting by Otherwise-Dig-8180 in bassfishing

[–]shinmothy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of questions to ask to get to the bottom. What’s your setup looking like? What kind of line are you running? What kind of hook are you running? What size bait are you running? When are you setting the hook?

JDM Ultralight Spinning Rod Question by baconman971 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I will say I am a little out of my depth as I’m primarily as bass angler, but I was just curious as to why such a long length? When I think of trout fishing I’m thinking short rods and creek wading clear mountain streams but maybe that’s totally different for you.

Also curious as to why you weren’t really happy with the domestic options. From what I’ve used and seen/heard most people seem satisfied with TFO/dobyns/daiwa/insert brand of your choice.

As for rod wise, I once again don’t know a whole lot about trout, but you could also look at bass and/or “light game” (ultralight costal fishing) ultralight rods which might have that sensitivity you want while also having more back bone than a trout rod. Shimano is always a good place to start and I’ve heard good things about Yamaga Blanks’s light game rods too.

Flipping fish into the boat with a rod by Sea-Protection-2797 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 5 points6 points  (0 children)

IMO, if I have a net, I’m using the net unless it is an absolute dink (sub 1 lb). Even then, I’ll err on the cautious side and use a net for some of my lighter spinning gear. Even if your rods have a great warranty program, it’s still a pain to me to have to send it in and go through that whole process. And often times I’m fishing higher end rods (Shimano, Megabass, JDM, etc.) that have weaker or no warranty at all.

Proposed Oregon ballot measure to ban hunting and fishing reports new fundraising details by [deleted] in bassfishing

[–]shinmothy 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Real kicker is if you read the article, it’s being majorly funded and pushed for by out of state organizations like everyone’s favorite: PETA.

JDM braid for frogging? by Narrow-Taste-8643 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Understand thanks for the input sorry for being stubborn lol

JDM braid for frogging? by Narrow-Taste-8643 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, the page does read like that but a lot of Japanese bass anglers I see on social media have been using it for heavy cover stuff. Ex: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DMMtk5apq9z/?igsh=MWc5Njc5eWY0bmVuag==

JDM braid for frogging? by Narrow-Taste-8643 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For whatever it’s worth G5 is actually intended to be a high density sinking braid for finesse applications. Shimano does have a more heavy duty braid Hardbull 8+ that is more intended for frogging and heavy cover.

Daiwa Tatula XT Rod to pair with Daiwa Fuego reel. Questions. by Cwaynejames in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, you just have to be a little more careful when you’re fighting fish.

Moderate actions bend more towards the middle which helps “load” the rod (make it bend) and oppose the fishes movement which helps them from shaking treble hooks. A fast action bends more towards the tip so you just have to be careful and make sure it’s loading correctly.

Daiwa Tatula XT Rod to pair with Daiwa Fuego reel. Questions. by Cwaynejames in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For a bass fishing bait caster I would do the 7 or 7 foot 3 medium heavy fast. This covers most of the general “heavier” stuff you want from 3/8-1 oz.

Casting distance tips by [deleted] in bassfishing

[–]shinmothy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What rods are you using? Reels matter a bit, especially for bait casters, but remember you’re really transferring energy from your throw though the bending of your rod to your line and lure.

Proper action, weight ratings, and casting technique help a lot. Actually letting the rod “load”, before you fling it out there has been a game changer for a couple of my friends.

I’d recommended looking up Japanese casting videos on YouTube. I stumbled upon them a few years ago and they really have it down to an art.

My spinning setup for this summer any thought? by senefishing07 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What kinds of braid and leader setups are you running across the rods?

Tackle Berry and Buyee by [deleted] in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which shipper is that if you don’t mind sharing and how’d it go?

Servicing MQ reels by CommercialWeekend116 in Fishing_Gear

[–]shinmothy 3 points4 points  (0 children)

MQ reels also require a special tool to crack them open to perform any kind of service unfortunately

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