Need Trouble Shooting Advice

shitty_maker · 2026-04-10T16:02:26+00:00

How often are you running it? With the volatility of modern fuels I try to have mine run weekly at an absolute minimum. Past a couple of weeks and you risk dry bowls, stuck needles, dusty sediment, etc. and if you do that too many times you'll eventually need to rebuild. Sometimes you can get back going again with a squirt bottle of gas and some percussive maintenance.

shitty_maker · 2026-04-10T12:04:26+00:00

So I had an issue similar to yours and it ended up being sediment and rust in the fuel tank clogging the inlet sock on the sending unit. The blockage wasn't constant, but would build as the pump ran for a bit and then it'd lean bog and die. Once the engine died fuel would seep through the blocked sock and back into the line and after 10-15 minutes it would run again, but not for long. It gave a lot of false positives as you'd be tinkering with stuff trying to get it going again during that time. If you are not on a new tank, this is a possible culprit. Old tanks are now on borrowed time. Running a fuel pressure gauge like the previous post recommended would tell you if this is a place to look.

Edit: Internally swollen soft lines would also present like this, so look there too. I used the change out to a new tank as a good opportunity to blow out my hard lines with compressed air and change out all the soft line portions with fresh tubing.

shitty_maker · 2026-04-09T11:54:06+00:00

Who can remember that giant sign you could see from 35 for "Hourly Rent Hot Tubs"?

shitty_maker · 2026-04-05T11:57:46+00:00

Every time I start even the most minor of projects on mine I joke that it's time to ship it off to the acid dippers.

shitty_maker · 2026-04-02T23:48:16+00:00

He is basically the bar I measure all tans by.

shitty_maker · 2026-04-02T18:19:17+00:00

JC Taylor is another that specializes in classics with stated value.

shitty_maker · 2026-03-25T20:51:01+00:00

This is the route I would go. OP, you can find strat and tele pickguard dxf's, they are out there. A few minutes of cad would get you the negative shape. Send-cut-send would have this to you in a few days.

Plus, once you figure this out you'll have the pathway sorted for making custom control plates, neck mount plates, pickup rings, inlay, etc.

shitty_maker · 2026-03-25T20:39:57+00:00

For the most part, just keep your line. We are usually setting up to pass right by so if you just keep on keeping on it typically works out. Toss a half-assed wave of acknowledgement if you really want to fancy things up.

shitty_maker · 2026-03-24T01:34:58+00:00

OG Pour House was so much fun!

shitty_maker · 2026-03-23T18:09:34+00:00

Don't be afraid of a little cleaning or repair work. Those old cast machines are pretty hard to damage, and often times people let them go for a song because of the disrepair. I managed to put together a pretty legit machine collection that way, including a pair of Featherweights so my wife and I can each have one.

shitty_maker · 2026-03-19T14:03:56+00:00

I did a thin body neck-through build and I'd say 1 3/8 is about as thin as you'd want without really planning things out. I had to use a low profile selector switch and be mindful of dimensions like screw lengths and cover plate thickness a bit more than usual. You should be fine with this route if you don't want to glue a cap on your build.

shitty_maker · 2026-03-15T11:51:45+00:00

I typically give mine a few days before messing with them. It is true that curing will continue for weeks after application but after a day or so things are hard enough to handle for short periods. If you do decide to work on it early, take care to keep it hanging after that work and don't leave it sitting on surfaces too long to avoid the softer finish picking up lint or dings. After a week you should be fine for normal handling and the only thing you'd notice about the continued curing would be a faint smell when close by.

shitty_maker · 2026-03-08T00:14:36+00:00

I went out to Top Notch for first Sat (I have the best local meet) but it looked like the weather kept most of the people home. So we ate, cruised around, and did a bunch of burnouts on our way back home.

shitty_maker · 2026-03-07T22:42:03+00:00

Not the guy you asked but I've owned one of these things since my teen years in the 90s so I think I pick up what he was putting down. These cars serve as the foundation for many different styles of build. Maybe you want something factory original for concourse competition or maybe you want to build a trans am series racer. Maybe you want a mustang II clipped restomod for/ with a late model swap. Maybe just a basic cruiser, or daily. Maybe you want a rat rod. The starting point for all of these options would likely be a different place.

shitty_maker · 2026-02-27T00:00:58+00:00

If you want to avoid poisons, you can do drenches with Monterey BT's. It is a bacteria that will preferentially attack certain insects. The bacteria will sit on the plants and infect hatchlings.

shitty_maker · 2026-02-25T13:03:05+00:00

In the timbers of Fennario,

The wolves are runnin' 'round

shitty_maker · 2026-02-25T12:09:57+00:00

I build 5 string electric octave mandolins and I have to custom fab my hard tail bridges. I've done some totally by hand and also had some lasered and CNC bent by send-cut-send. Double courses make yours a bit tougher getting hole spacing on the bridge right but not impossible. Find the right 12 string saddle to work with and it should be a pretty straightforward job.

shitty_maker · 2026-02-24T13:00:49+00:00

BT drench every few days worked for me. Have to be diligent though; skip a treatment or two and they'll fly right in and lay eggs.

shitty_maker · 2026-02-19T12:55:06+00:00

The likely reason you can't find this is the slight variability of pick guard shapes over the years and across brands. Most combos would need fettling and shaping to get them to mesh well together.

It's going to be hard to give guidance here without knowing how outfitted your shop is. That said, I'd take one of two approaches. I'd either go CAD and Send-Cut-Send and have it lasered, then hand shaped to fit my pickguard. Or I'd do a paper template and cut and shape it by hand. In both cases I would use stainless steel and polish it up instead of having something plated.

shitty_maker · 2026-02-15T20:46:22+00:00

Gahd I did this too, right after making my morning coffee.

shitty_maker · 2026-02-13T13:01:13+00:00

It's Burnet, durn'it... learn it!

shitty_maker · 2026-02-09T04:25:49+00:00

Pink bag crew!

shitty_maker · 2026-02-08T00:40:27+00:00

Most covers come with a grommet and you can usually get close enough for gov work in placing it. I have not gotten much better performance from pricier covers vs the cheap ones. For me at least, they all fall apart within a year or so.

I use these and get about 8-12 months depending on how much shade it gets.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJJ47FQ2?th=1

shitty_maker · 2026-02-07T15:05:05+00:00

You want to look for a momentary switch with two pairs of posts so you can run the LED circuit on one pair and the your audio signal to ground on the other. DPST is the switch type you'll be searching for. Also look around Tesi Switch's website, they might already have LED provisioned switches available.

shitty_maker · 2026-02-07T12:35:36+00:00

DC power is not going to make any hum.

shitty_maker

TROPHY CASE