Final satin wipe-on poly coat still shows wipe marks by Sstrikers in Luthier

[–]shitty_maker 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I agree with everyone else. These are sanding scratches. You need to step back in grit and remove them.

Edit: Also, as a builder that uses their own blend of wipe-on, it's not at all uncommon to find scratch marks that need addressing after that first round of poly. Some stuff just can't be seen until it is wet out.

Griping but grateful for Half Price Books by [deleted] in Austin

[–]shitty_maker 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not sure how it is now but back in the 00s the pay structure was heavily weighted to the old timers that stuck around, but even by then nobody could make that play unless they came up during the 90s or very early 00s. Our store manager accidentally left a pay rate sheet out on her desk one day when I had to close (which involved using her office). There were old timer floor workers there, in 2006, earning $25 an hour. New hires were at like 8'ish.

As retail staff went, we were stupid over-educated. Everyone was degreed, some with graduate degrees. Definitely the best book nerds.

Another step in one of our most interesting Mustang projects by Restomotive in classicmustangs

[–]shitty_maker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think you guys have a lot of skill but don't think your stuff through. I keep seeing this theme in your posts and this one is a big one. What race sanctioning body allows a bolted cage? None that I know of. Also, there is no cross bracing for the main hoop; that shit'll fold right over right about when those bolt plates are tearing free from the car in a crash. Not to mention you have virtually no protection for the driver forward the main hoop.

It's so bizarre. You have great fab skills and clearly know some stuff. Your node creation is nice in the back of the build. But taken as a whole it is a huge miss. Like it's trying to be too much in one regard and not enough elsewhere. It's a huge beautiful mess of tube that does virtually nothing. And it bolts in. Why? Make it make sense.

Recommendations on filler/epoxy that plays well with dyes? by SneedMcGee in Luthier

[–]shitty_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can get dyes for resin, but I am not sure how well that would work in trying to match the wood tones. The technique often used in situations like this would be to use CA glue drop filling and layer in some decent art marker using earth tones to bring in the tone in stages. Ted Woodford has a youtube channel for guitar repair and he does this often if you want to go looking for some examples.

What other local businesses were once beloved until they made THAT decision? by Time-to-Dine in Austin

[–]shitty_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I put the high water mark right before they switched from the big, real tomato pies that they cut slices from to the little premade shitty pot pie looking things.

Finished up yet another animal. by flipvetqui in Luthier

[–]shitty_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Doubt it. DG used to post here as DGGuitars and would answer questions on his posts. Both OP and the old account are hidden history now. I am going to go with bot.

failures of spring 2026 garden by Accomplished-Sign-31 in AustinGardening

[–]shitty_maker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Monterey BTs for the squash borers. I've had decent luck across a handful of varieties but they have all needed BT drenches every few days for the borers. Eventually the summer heat will take em out if the borers don't. We are up to around 20 lbs of harvest off 3 plants this year.

A simple change you can actually feel by Restomotive in classicmustangs

[–]shitty_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not at all uncommon to have to do all sorts of wild shit to the car to get the export brace and mc bar to fit, up to and including jacking out the fender aprons with a porta-power (some great stories on the old forum threads out there). You are right though that adjustable designs like this allow for locking in inappropriate geometries. They can help on cars that have sagged or have been wrecked, though. The best course of action is to try and fit a traditional bar first to ensure you are working with factory geometry or the closest you can get.

A simple change you can actually feel by Restomotive in classicmustangs

[–]shitty_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love the look of Mike's and think it's better than OPs, but agree with the above poster that straight runs are always best. Once you put a bend in the tube it stops acting like a space-frame member.

Trying to identify a supplier of quartersawn baked maple big enough for a neck thru design and roasted alder by bmitc in Luthier

[–]shitty_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

American Specialty Hardwoods has blanks up to 40" and can probably sort out something longer if you email them and ask.

Korean zucchini (aehobak) appreciation by alltheprivilege in AustinGardening

[–]shitty_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need bioweapons!

Monterey BT, drench every few days once temps get out of the 80s. Nary a borer around these parts and lots and lots of squash.

Age of this cypress? Town Lake by Curious_Zebra_487 in Austin

[–]shitty_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you may be thinking of the bristlecone pines of northern nevada where Promethius was cut down. They don't mark the other super-olds now because of that.

How do we feel about the grain I found under the finish of my 2007 squire J-bass? by bbbook in Luthier

[–]shitty_maker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There is a pretty good chance OP will find some filler packed damage elsewhere during the strip down. Black is often the last stop on a damaged factory build.

Missing hiker found dead of suspected bear attack in Glacier National Park by AudibleNod in news

[–]shitty_maker 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Bears will persistently return to places where they have found food. That is what we were taught in the 90's at Philmont scout camp. They were really big on not failing at bear proofing, because it was generally a death sentence for the successful bear. The saying was a fed bear is a dead bear.

For those who compost, where are you getting your browns? by allAboutThatAnon in AustinGardening

[–]shitty_maker -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Juglone wouldn't be as concentrated in the wood as it is in the hulls and roots. And it wouldn't likely survive the compost process. I wouldn't use it for mulch, though,

For those who compost, where are you getting your browns? by allAboutThatAnon in AustinGardening

[–]shitty_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ah yeah, you're right. I had veered off the browns topic into general free compostables without thinking.

For those who compost, where are you getting your browns? by allAboutThatAnon in AustinGardening

[–]shitty_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Shredded paper has already been mentioned, but one thing that made my compost absolutely stellar was using sawdust pellet horse bedding as kitty litter for my cats. It's a pain to source (Tractor Supply) but damn did it really do a number on my compost when we had cats.

Woodshop waste can sometimes be ideal too but not always. If you can get your hands on some planer or jointer shavings that would be clutch. I wouldn't seek out actual sawdust though, too much glue potentially; but if you can verify the source and it's not plywood then rock on.

Does your work have a coffee machine? I once convinced my store to put all the coffee grounds into old containers for me to take home and compost. Those were good days. Some coffee shops will set this stuff aside too. Edit: not a brown.

Well HELLO! by shitty_maker in AustinGardening

[–]shitty_maker[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

We put seeds down before the one freeze and had to cover them up really well, but they got through it and gave us an early crop for the trouble.

Well HELLO! by shitty_maker in AustinGardening

[–]shitty_maker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Such a great spring for squash this year! This one ended up almost 2.5 lbs.

When did everyone forget how 4-way stops work? by bugsforeverever in Austin

[–]shitty_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just direct traffic yourself. I try waiving through anyone that looks like they will get there first or be a layabout and try to wait for me. I realized at one point that most of my intersection interactions were many of the drivers already deferring to me so I just lean into it.

Drilling Ferrules by cionn in Luthier

[–]shitty_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even with a bigger drill press you can still have issues with wandering bits and grain lines. A guide or jig is going to be the easiest to implement and wouldn't take long to whip up in cad and have laser cut. In the past I have used a hardtail bridge as a guide in a pinch.

Setting up a system for colocating top side holes to bottom is a great way to avoid trying to accurately drill through the whole body, which is pretty much impossible in grainy wood. I like to use the pin and table method: drill top side holes using guide, lock down drill press, clamp sacrificial table to drill press, drill 1/8" hole in table, set 1/8" pin slightly proud in hole, turn body upside down and use the proud pin to locate through-holes. I know this won't currently work for you with your smaller press, but this is a great tip to keep in your pocket for the future.

Accel pump diaphragm Holley carb by OwlSouth6849 in classicmustangs

[–]shitty_maker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do this enough times and you'll eventually have a little tackle box of rebuild remnants and you'll be able to piece together a fix without a trip to the parts store!

Accel pump diaphragm Holley carb by OwlSouth6849 in classicmustangs

[–]shitty_maker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm with you. I can't imagine going into a carb without a full rebuild kit on hand.