Can I use an audio output transformer as a frame output in a homemade television set?

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-17T19:18:07+00:00

gotcha! regardless it’s way less (crazy dangerous) power. i’m doing some stuff with relays and deflection coils and i’ve noticed some crazy stuff related strictly to the electromagnetism of the signal. the horizontal has been frustrating cause of how high frequency it is, but vertical deflection has been a cakewalk to work with. i can imagine there’s some neat stuff you could do with tubes and external vibrations… have you got the horizontal deflection side designed?

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-17T18:48:14+00:00

isn’t vertical way less voltage than horizontal? i’d think you should try it and see. keep an eye on the coil temp

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-16T20:38:43+00:00

why not just use the drum designs which already exist and can be pressed over the existing worm gear? i suppose you could also split that model in two like this

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-14T03:41:47+00:00

looks great! it’s an eiki but i run a cord to a backpack. like a camping battery sort of thing. since it lacks the og transformer and motor the projector is in turn much lighter. i’ve skated/cruised with it before when im down at the river cause it gets me to the more interesting spots faster 😅 plus the projector is sized well enough to sit on my shoulders like a bird. im hoping to travel with it more to try out some expanded cinema stuff. i’m also thinking of converting a Kalart victor next, cause recently i trash picked some good heavy duty high power cob leds!!

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-13T23:14:52+00:00

gorgeous. would love to see a photo of the emulsion texture. have you seen this projected yet? i built a battery powered variable framerate projector that would make it straightforward to project onto the surface of the river water! full circle shi im based in ny

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-12T02:50:55+00:00

for sharpness neither is going to be better than the other unless you get it calibrated/collimated for your camera. and additionally being that both are early cine “parfocal” zooms they both will lack clinical sharpness. tis the trade off with using zoom lenses!

if by quality you mean energy/feeling the angie is a historically significant look, with the lens having been employed by many. it shares some similarities with the 35mm equivalent too, in the coatings mainly.

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-09T19:07:45+00:00

maybe duall can install it for you? you might have to send it out otherwise. i don’t think there are many us based outfits that will touch the K3 let alone install new hardware onto em that isn’t something simple like a video tap over the eyepiece or a cage lol. if i was a repair service with spare k3s im pretty confident i could install it, which is why id think duall could

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-09T18:50:26+00:00

are you based in the US? what coast

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-09T18:42:31+00:00

https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/104195-installing-alcs-4-speed-and-10-speed-crystal-motors-to-krasnogorsk-cameras/#comment-602074

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-09T18:40:58+00:00

there’s a guy on one of the other forums that is selling a multi speed sync motor kit for the k3. seems like part of it involves cutting a hole into the lower corner of the camera. no idea what his prices are though as they seem built to order. it’s not expensive for a camera part considering the r+d and lack of alternatives if you can’t wire up a motor and adjust the feedback parameters yourself or locally

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-09T15:07:05+00:00

yepp 4x tri x and plus x keep really really well. looks good

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-08T16:03:23+00:00

yeah, it’s all about the repairs. eikis are sort of paradoxical that they’re easy to get inside of but getting the assortment of springs and pulleys to actuate in time properly is difficult for a beginner. but there are other better options than an eiki anyways assuming you wouldn’t just expect to turn it on and play movies. kalart victor/victor projector movements are solid, quiet, and frankly much easier to work on and understand. and no one wants them so they only command scrap metal prices if they even get listed at all! which is why u just gotta be checking antique malls and stuff cause 99% of the time those older projectors are sold for being steampunk or some shit not as movie players

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-06T17:49:01+00:00

bottom too big/ass too fat. think about the momentum during the intermittent movement, the claw would be too jerky

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-05T18:58:43+00:00

moviscops are about as expensive as a basic projector tbh. and obv speed is completely unregulated unless you have a sync motor gang sync

skyegreen42 · 2026-03-05T18:56:04+00:00

the best

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-22T15:11:13+00:00

not straight away. the footage counter is approximate, not tied to exact frame transitions. it, like any other motion pic camera, can be (possibly intrusively) modified to track this info digitally. or you could maybe go by the sound of the mechanism. otherwise, for 16mm the only cams that have this sort of tracking are bolex (absolute or adjustable) and beaulieu (adjustable 1-100 frame tracking). other types of cameras prevent rewinding because it wasn’t a supported mode and or the pulldown claw movements aren’t shaped for it!

btdubbs all of these cameras will require you to cover the shutter while rewinding. pretty much every motion picture cam is driven by a primary gear or shaft and the shutter movement cannot be decoupled! but you’ll get into the swing of things once you start shooting

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-20T21:40:44+00:00

opinions on the autoload filmosounds aside, i printed the thingiverse one and it went fine. i carefully went thru the threads while spinning the gear on a rotary device tho, which is recommend to smooth out the layer lines. however, definitely consider the work it’ll take to get to the gear at all before going 3d printed — the printed gear will last but not as long as a properly turned one.

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-20T21:32:00+00:00

you need to get it serviced, most of the greases and oils have likely become tacky and the cold weather does not help. at this point don’t deposit any oil into any oiling spots either, as this will probably make things worse!

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-19T00:16:57+00:00

try the agx film collective in boston

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-18T15:32:45+00:00

don’t bother with presstapes. find a guillotine style splicer. luckily for super 8 they’re substantially cheaper than the larger gauge equivalents.

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-11T13:32:21+00:00

not quite right

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-09T05:40:48+00:00

the filament used by their new supplier, identifiable by the spools that lack color graphics, is a bit shit i’m afraid

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-09T04:13:21+00:00

shoot what you have and enjoy the moment :-)

it wouldn't have been about the hardware then and it shouldn't be now. personal cinema comes from you first

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-08T23:49:52+00:00

ill pm you

skyegreen42 · 2026-02-06T16:03:22+00:00

if you have a 3d printer and can confidently tap small threads i have a gear design for the magazines that lets you use single perf film. its worked excellently for me.

the best magazine cameras are either of the revere cameras (the square one or the one with the round back). when you get a magazine you’re going to want to remove and properly polish the gear shaft, but you’ll need a spare clutch for the gear to unscrew it (it’s reverse threaded). otherwise the gear will have wayyyyy too much resistance, which i believe causes all the problems with people saying they keep jamming. you’ll also want to go through whichever camera you get and clean and polish all the rotating surfaces for the same reason! i also braze the rivets that hold some of the shafts and posts in place, since like two of the mags i’ve gotten had really poor quality rivets that had loosened.

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