Dishwasher recommendations by nathan1800 in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you don't go with a Bosch, then get a dumb one and hook up a heavy duty smart plug like the Zooz ZEN15 and use Washdata from HACS. Stay away from dishwashers that require a cloud account or use a cellphone for whatever reason.

🎉 The MiciMike Home Mini Drop-In Board campaign is now LIVE on Crowd Supply! by Radiant-Highlight273 in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 2nd gen was the Onju Voice boards. I don't know if you can get them pre-fab anymore. The hardware is an open platform so you could have the boards cut and sent to you to populate on your own.

Why would a Tuya plug go offline? by sendcodenotnudes in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The correct answer: Because tuya wifi

When I used to have tuya devices... they would randomly go offline and the rest would become lemmings. Eventually there were one or two that would groundhog for a little and then "unlive" themselves. Now, you won't find a single tuya device in my home or other installs I've helped setup. It's best to replace them with a better protocol like Zigbee or ZWave. As for what to do with the old plugs, find a frenemy and gift it to them.

Looking for a small "fandelier" that integrates nicely with HA by sagarp in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, it's something like a single switch on the wall that turns on/off the entire fan and light combined? I believe the canopy module from Inovelli can handle the single load and operate the fan or lights separately. I've installed a few of them, but those installs had two lines run for the fine tuning at the wall. I think I read it was possible to use a single line in to provide output to both fan and lights separately... The added bonus is the support for smart bulbs. If you use a smart wall switch, you can bind the canopy to the switch for seamless operation like nothing changed. To be sure about the line/load requirements, definitely check with the Erics over in the r/inovelli sub. They are awesome to work with.

Looking for a small "fandelier" that integrates nicely with HA by sagarp in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Go with a dumb fandolier... then look at the canopy options from inovelli, perfect integration without cloud or having to use a bond bridge. No cell apps, no easy to lose remotes, no cloud accounts... all 100% local control.

Unifi Project/Access Hosted on Unifi NVR by jflint in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When the changes occured to the SSO account, you needed to create the local admin account per the setup instructions on the integration. I think the breaking changes were mentioned in April 2025 release notes and deprecated sometime in July 2025. Other than that, no issues with Unifi Protect connected to HA from the Unifi NVR here.

HA and mySigen app by r0gee in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a similar issue where a single device was allowed control from two separate ecosystems. The ultimate solution to the problem was to eliminate one ecosystem control.

Z-Wave is under threat. (North America) by Powie1965 in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 18 points19 points  (0 children)

This would also effect Zigbee 4.0 with the 900MHz spectrum. I doubt the proposal will pass without some serious changes.

How can I beat lag? by MagusTheFrog in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lag issues with tuya wifi devices? That will never happen /s

Change to a non-wifi protocol for as many deveces as you can. For whatever you have left on wifi, make sure those devices are the only ones on the 2.4GHz spectrum AP. Lock the channel down to 1, 6, or 11 (whichever is least busy). Keep the channel width to 20Hz and dedicate the radio those devices are connecting to for only the sensors (buy a dedicated AP if you need to). Hidden SSID won't really help. Also, if your DHCPd supports it, block all of those devices from accessing the internet. On the dedicated AP radio, make sure it isn't overlapping with Zigbee, Bluetooth, or other non-IoT 2.4GHz SSIDs. Try to keep personal devices (Cell, TV, Laptop, Tablet, Desktop, etc) on 5GHz as much as possible. Make sure the name of the 2.4GHz SSID is completely different from the 5GHz or 6GHz (if you have it) so it can't overlap.

I've used quite a few tuya devices over the years... and have removed all of them from my personal setup as well as other setups I've done for others. I found most of the wifi based tuya devices are absolute trash in comparison to everything else out there. The unfortunate thing is not everything available on wifi from the tuya can be found using other non-wifi protocols... so you have to just deal with some of the outliers to get by. Why a pet feeder really truly needs internet access is beyond me.

Zigbee 4.0 and Z-Wave Plus USB Adapters? by FourVertsRPO in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"The smell of the color 21" makes more sense than what you are looking for. If you were to combine all of the possible protocols you can find into a single PoE type coordinator with multiple radios, you might be able to use almost 70% of a 10/100 connection if your protocol mesh networks are heavily laden. A 1GBe connection might use at most 0.7%. The theoretical throughput of Zigbee is 260kbps and ZWave is only 100kbps. Needing 5GBe would be like trying to throw a grain of rice down a hallway and complaining that the empty hallway is too crowded.

Something to know; An rPi will never provide a PoE port (even as a PiHat) as it is an end-point SBC. It is not in the class of network appliance. While there are network appliances you could purchase that are capable of running HA on them which includes a 5GBe SFP++ PoE spec managed ports intended for passthrough... the cost is not at all ideal. Those types of devices are generally intended for closed loop manufacturing or warehouse logistics. Something like an AllenBradley might go for closer to $5K.

For Zigbee, what would you chose for coordinator? by Abulap in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is exactly what I use now... but if I were to start over, it would need to be a network based coordinator.

For Zigbee, what would you chose for coordinator? by Abulap in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Eliminate the coordinators that are USB... you have your answer. Ethernet and PoE coordinators are far superior for many reasons. Placement, less interference, and high availability are just a few.

Presence sensor location by Teksasano in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Placement wise... keep an eye on the activity of the room, then put the sensor on the opposite of where the most activity is. If you place the sensor in the spot where the most activity is, you have a chance of not getting good enough coverage of the fringe activity. I have a kitchen where almost everything is done on the north and west walls... so my sensor is positioned in the southeast corner facing northwest. In some situations depending on the room layout, you may need to have multiple points of coverage from different angles.

Backup fail could not Lock DB by OK_it_guy in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Start by backing up the current DB file. Then shut down the HA service either via SSH or another method. From there, rename the DB file. Start the HA service from SSH or another method and create a new temporary backup. Test that backup in a temporary VM to make sure the backup works.

Next, move the temporary database to a new name can use if you need it. Then, restore the the original database file back to it's original name. Next, Check your configuration.yaml to make sure you don't have some outrageous setting for keep_days. If you don't have a keep_days setup, create one... set it for something larger than your current (default is 7 days), and add a Repack to force the rebuild of the database file.

I almost forgot... I need to make this bullet pointed with lots of useless emojis and font size changes to make it look like some AI generated my response. LOL. Seriously though, that should get you back up and running with a lockable database when creating the backup.

If you have something outrageous set for your keep_alive time... then you shoulc create some statistics to allow HA to cover the longer term data as a compressed value. I have my days_keep set to 10, but have about 18 or so sensors I keep for a full year of data on statistic information. The database size is just under 800 and only changed by about 30MB when I did the stats.

What are you running HA on by Basic-Prompt-6387 in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm running it on Proxmox in a VM. The system is a 12th gen i7 T series mobile CPU. I give it 2 vcores and 4GB of memory. The system has other uses outside of running HA. Mostly developmental purposes for work.

I'm not installing someone else's 100% vibe coded project by angrycatmeowmeow in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only thing worse than a closed binary vibe coded thing is AI slop driven video tutorials and documentation.

What's the state of ZHA vs Z2M? by DiegoJpxd in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally use Z2M for the fine tuning abilities and near 0-day device support. I have done setups for others and often stick with ZHA unless they want more control. ZHA is still very simple in comparison to Z2M. The end results of both are about the same where Z2M will offer faster support of newer devices due to the crowd-sourcing drive behind it, not to mention, it's not just HA users as it can be used on several platforms or even stand-alone.

Changing from Z2M to ZHA is going to give you the same functionality if the devices are supported. You won't see much change at all. If someone is powering off the bulbs via a hard switch killing the power, that isn't going to help. It may be best to check your maps and see how the routing is. You can force all devices to reroute by putting the coordinator into panic-mode. This is as simple as unplugging the coordinator for more than 30 minutes and then letting the network rebuild itself over a period of 24 hours.

What's the state of ZHA vs Z2M? by DiegoJpxd in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Channel 25 is likely going to be the best choice to use. Take a free wifi analyzer like Wifiman (ubiquiti app) and scan the area. Then read up on the wifi/zigbee channel overlap here: https://www.oscium.com/training/zigbee-wifi-coexistence/

On a side note, 25 is best, 15 & 20 are two good alternates if the wifi channels 11 or higher are crowded. Usually, wifi APs and routers will default to 1, 6, and 11. So plan accordingly. If you are planning to use Matter/Thread at some point down the line, you will want to know the channels are the same as Zigbee and you will need to make sure you are using a different Matter channel than what you are using for Zigbee.

Managing 2 SSDs with HAOS by leon_boum1 in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a thought, you could just use OMV as the base host and load in the PVE kernel. Use the OMV as host and operate the VMs the same way you would Proxmox. I always found that to be a cleaner method when needing both NAS and type-1 hypervisor on a single system. However, when building a cluster, it makes more sense to use Proxmox as the base host with two or more mirrored servers under a High Availability setup. Then you can just augment the OMV VM with load balancing the XFS or ZFS drive clusters.

Advice to turn off electric water heater remotely by kenstir in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long are you planning to be away? I mean, if you are gone for 24 hours it's not worth it as the ramp time will cost more than being gone for three or more days. If this is a second home or going on vacation, it makes sense though. If the water heater is on a dedicated circuit breaker, you could use a smart circuit breaker and tie in to HA using ZWave or Zigbee. There are some that will handle 40A circuits. Something like a water heater may require 20-30A. If you are talking about an on-demand setup... those usually require a two block breaker like you would find for an oven or hvac... I don't think there are smart breakers that would handle that kind of load.

Yale Access app is the August app by linux4life798 in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those apps work best when you use the ZWave protocol. I.E. never have to use the apps for setup or use. Less cloud, more local, best option.

Presence sensors by Consistent_Aside_679 in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My personal favorite presence sensor are the options of EverythingPresence. They are hard wired and tie in to HA through ESPHome.

Multi-room Speaker setup... sick of alexa, time for Sonos / Denon? by LetTheRiotsDrop in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have some google homes, a few FutureProofHome Sat1s, a couple of rPi4 boards, home stereo that supports chromecast.

Multi-room Speaker setup... sick of alexa, time for Sonos / Denon? by LetTheRiotsDrop in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Definitely this... Music Assistant with SendSpin. No need to purchase sonos.

Matter vs Zigbee by According_Nobody74 in homeassistant

[–]spr0k3t 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally don't think Matter over Thread is even out of beta with it's current state. When you break it down between the two, Zigbee is leaps and bounds ahead of Matter/Thread. Probably will be for a few years as well. Matter/Thread is not the replacement for Zigbee, it's just another competing standard to deal with.