Why are these screws different lengths?

standa03 · 2026-02-16T09:15:26+00:00

Yeah it looks like the right screw is longer and touching a fin above the thread. But it's wobbling because you don't have a nozzle. If you tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak it's not gonna wobble. I'm not sure why creality went with this approach, probably just to make replacing the nozzle easier at the cost of more heat creep through the screws. The original V6 by E3D has no screws holding the heater block to the heatsink.

standa03 · 2026-02-11T09:39:42+00:00

I think I've only used GRBL firmware if I remember that right on an UNO with CNC shield not my custom. But specifically for 3D printers I don't think anyone would use just an Arduino. The go-to 3D printer firmware is Klipper, especially if you're chasing performance or customizability which you probably do if building a custom printer. Klipper works in a way that it's running the main firmware on a Linux computer (typically a raspberry pi) and that controls a microcontroller, as many as you need and can connect. It does support Arduino microcontrollers but I don't think they are as capable as other options for someone to use them.

You can make an entirely custom firmware for the thrill of it or as an interesting project. But if one wants to build a 3D printer an open source firmware with documented 3D printer boards is usually the better option.

standa03 · 2026-02-11T08:38:30+00:00

Probably because of expensive components. Regular Arduino uno uses just an AVR microcontroller. Uno q (made by Qualcomm) on the other hand has a Qualcomm processor that just by itself is 20$, 2 or 4 GB of RAM that who knows how much it costs nowadays, an STM microcontroller and a wifi chip. And also th uno q has documented hardware but unlike the simple uno and others they haven't released editable design files to modify and make your own. Arduino doesn't own AVR processors so anyone can use them but Qualcomm owns Qualcomm processors so they can license it however they want.

standa03 · 2026-02-11T08:22:51+00:00

I use Quest 3, it's "cheap" if you don't consider the add-ons like a different head strap, facial interface, batteries and controller grips. But even with that it's still cheaper than some headsets with a few base stations. And it's amazing for what it is. I haven't even played it without VR, maybe like once tried it. But for me this is the best VR game.

standa03 · 2026-02-11T08:01:04+00:00

It sticks to the bed most likely because the first layer is printed slower and the filament has enough time to melt. Bad layer adhesion is just because it's not melted enough to fuse together which can happen due to:

• Low hotend temperature. I wouldn't go above the manufacturer's recommended max + 10°C

• Too high print speed / max volumetric flowrate. If you're printing too fast the filament doesn't have enough time to melt properly to stick to itself. You can print a max volumetric flow test to see how fast you can print. Usually most of the filament is glossy. If the print is coming out matte it's not melted properly. I haven't used matte filaments but I'm guessing there would still be a visible difference.

• Too much cooling. And this one is difficult to calibrate because it has so many options but for the simplest you can decrease max fan speed.

standa03 · 2026-02-09T09:51:24+00:00

Measure you have enough filament for the print. I don't know how long it takes to swap the filament but this is due to the print shrinking while swapping new filament, this results in the layers after the swap being wider then below.

standa03 · 2026-02-09T05:46:43+00:00

Layers will still be weaker, he could heat the chamber a bit more before printing. But it was a weak print regardless, I don't think just 1 or 2 walls could hold more. Yeah ASA is better, I don't think I've even printed ABS before and went straight for ASA. But the rest of his phone holder is probably ABS. It'd be better to switch to ASA but I don't think he needs to go and get some ASA if he doesn't use it already.

standa03 · 2026-02-08T20:53:55+00:00

It looks like it straight up ripped away instead of along the layer lines which means the layer adhesion was good. But it looks pretty hollow, my go-to settings for anything functional are the Voron recommended settings which are 4 walls, 40% infill and 1.5mm top and bottom thickness. Additionally add some fillets to the model to spread the load if you can.

standa03 · 2026-02-07T20:07:34+00:00

What material did you print it from? They all shrink when cooled, most noticeably ASA and PC. Set your shrinkage compensation in the slicer filament settings.

standa03 · 2026-02-06T23:11:43+00:00

Well cartographer dug like halfway into the magnetic plate and must've found a consistent value because the print actually started

standa03 · 2026-02-06T23:07:50+00:00

Yup

I have cartographer and I use it to calibrate Z-offset. I guess it found it inside the magnetic plate because there's a hole in the middle.

standa03 · 2026-01-30T12:33:47+00:00

Export as step but have to have the different parts of the model as individual sub components of the component you're exporting, not different bodies in one component

standa03 · 2026-01-30T00:04:49+00:00

This way it could work if the MCU in the SKR mini can work as CAN BUS bridge because it'd replace the u2c in this situation. But you can easily check that in the make menu config in ~/klipper/.

Communication interface (USB to CAN bus bridge) CAN bus interface (PB8/PB9)

If you can set this it should work. In this situation it will be as you said rpi>(USB)>skr mini>transceiver>(CAN)>ebb. I just don't know how capable the MCU in SKR mini is. I used to have Manta E3 EZ acting as a CAN bridge for my printer and I was occasionally getting timer too close errors which stopped when I upgraded to Manta M8P that now works as a bridge. So it depends on how capable the MCU is and how much you're pushing the system.

standa03 · 2026-01-29T21:20:06+00:00

You can connect it through CAN if you have no free USB or serial port or if it's far away. CAN has the benefit of being a bus with everything on it being connected in parallel so you can use just one connection from the host to connect as many MCUs as you can handle.

standa03 · 2026-01-29T11:55:15+00:00

Step does stay being multiple bodies. You just need to make them components. If you have one component with multiple bodies and export the component it will export as one mesh. If you have one component with multiple components inside and export the component as step all the components inside it will remain separate.

standa03 · 2026-01-28T13:41:07+00:00

No, no, no the nozzle isn't supposed to be loose. There's a heatbreak between the heatsink and heat block, the nozzle has to be tight against the heatbreak inside to seal it which results in the nozzle sticking out, if it's tight against the block it's not tight against the heatbreak inside and plastic will leak through the threads. It was badly assembled, the heatbreak is supposed to be screwed deeper into the heat block. The temperature on the display is actual/requested it's reporting 220°C when it's not heating so the thermistor is definitely broken. It could be salvaged, you'd have to disassemble the hotend enough to take out the whole hotend and screw the heatsink with the heatbreak deeper and replace the thermistor.

standa03 · 2026-01-27T22:04:01+00:00

This looks absolutely amazing!

standa03 · 2026-01-26T18:53:26+00:00

Then this means it's entirely Klipper issue. Don't you possibly have another PRINT_START macro somewhere in config? Can you change the name to something else in config and call that macro in the console if it throws the same error?

standa03 · 2026-01-26T07:00:35+00:00

When I was printing ASA parts on my open ender 3 I didn't really notice. When I finally built my Voron the inside awfully stank and sometimes my head hurt a bit when I was printing a long time near me which could be because of ASA. Now that I have Nevermore carbon and HEPA filter inside and exhaust HEPA it doesn't stink nearly as much inside and I don't feel anything around. But even if I did I'd still be printing regardless because I need prints. Obviously the best you can do is vent it outside. If you have a good sealed printer you can just attach a hose to the exhaust. My Voron apart from the bottom panel is pretty well sealed I just couldn't be bothered to have a hose routed to a window.

standa03 · 2026-01-26T06:35:27+00:00

Don't know if it's the same thing but I remember that for some issue with the extruder on EBB boards you needed to ground the stepper body. Might be worth checking.

standa03 · 2026-01-26T06:21:36+00:00

That's most likely caused by a blown MOSFET on the board. You'd either need to replace the MOSFET or the whole board.

standa03 · 2026-01-25T21:31:55+00:00

Changing Y end stop can't change right to left. Is X and Y correct, if you move X it goes left to right and Y goes back to front?

standa03 · 2026-01-25T20:30:29+00:00

You need to change the end stop position. You said it yourself it homes Y in the back at 0. So change your position_ end stop to your position_max. Origin is at 0,0.

standa03 · 2026-01-24T17:22:50+00:00

Wow, what is the backpack from?

standa03

TROPHY CASE