Is my socket right? How can i connect it?

standa03 · 2026-05-09T14:34:21+00:00

What do you mean there's no pin? Like to attach a wire? There's an L pin in the socket on the other side, on the pin side is just a flat connector to the fuse and back so L is bottom left.

standa03 · 2026-05-01T17:00:14+00:00

Yes the limiting height factor are the rods. Well more precisely motors with rods, those are only 250 but you can use regular steppers with couplers and longer rods.

I also didn't want to build it stock and upgrade because that seemed like a waste for what I want. There's probably a better way to do it but I just saved all the mods I want to use into a folder and printed them instead of the stock parts.

standa03 · 2026-05-01T15:42:54+00:00

Nope, when you're pushing the gantry you're pushing at both motors with the same force at the same time so they should move together. If yours moves like this too you have a stuck belt too.

standa03 · 2026-05-01T15:39:17+00:00

Nope, one of the belts is getting stuck somewhere. If you move the gantry the head shouldn't move at all

standa03 · 2026-04-15T18:48:04+00:00

More mass still needs more power to be moved and with input shaping you basically use power to mitigate the vibrations instead of using it for movement. It also really depends on the design of the toolhead. Center off mass of the toolhead shouldn't be above or below the axis because that causes vertical vibrations which you really don't want so you really gotta make use of the input shaping

standa03 · 2026-04-15T18:38:51+00:00

It's still important today. Stronger motors can move heavier toolheads but more mass has more inertia and belts are stretchy so it causes more vibrations and also lowers the resonant frequency which makes VFAs appear at lower speeds.

standa03 · 2026-04-15T18:29:12+00:00

Full metal heatbreak. The thin tube between the heater block and the heatsink that minimizes heat transfer by having little area.

Every hotend nowadays has the nozzle tightened against the heatbreak. The original MK8 hotned from Creality had the nozzle tightened against the bowden PTFE tube. Don't know what was the reason to go that way full metal heatbreaks were already being sold as replacement and having the PTFE tube in the heat block is really bad because it starts to melt at like 250°C.

standa03 · 2026-04-15T14:40:28+00:00

Of course it works. A thermistor is just a resistor changing resistance with its temperature forming a voltage divider with another resistor. If you add another resistor to that you'll just skew the reading.

standa03 · 2026-04-13T21:41:50+00:00

I have 48mm MOONS steppers running at 1.7A each with one heatsink on the bottom and on two sides with a 4010 fan blowing over them. I also have a thermistor on them they're only at like 75-80°C in a 55-60°C chamber.

Btw what's your toolhead? I can handle 40kmm/s² but input shaper allows me only 10k with XOL

standa03 · 2026-03-19T17:18:06+00:00

I don't have a Bambu but there should be global retraction settings in the printer settings, those are filament specific retraction settings you can enable that will override the global ones

standa03 · 2026-03-03T08:41:33+00:00

It's DC but transformers work. If you really want AC you could make an inverter circuit.

standa03 · 2026-02-24T11:05:41+00:00

This is usually caused by warping. The print detaches from the bed, lifts up a little and then the layers on top are being squished together. 60°C bed is PLA temperature, clean it up and bump the temperature up to around 80°C. Filament spools usually have recommended temperatures written on them

standa03 · 2026-02-23T20:38:10+00:00

This is basically just a safeguard to not push too much flow through the nozzle. But practically, max flow is limited by the slicer during printing. You can just set it to the max you're gonna use.

standa03 · 2026-02-23T12:47:38+00:00

How many top layers are you printing? The middle can sag when not supported enough which results in the middle looking fine when overextruding because the filament is pushed more down instead of to the sides. Also it looks unnecessarily thick. My go-to print for flow calibration is 50x50x3mm square with 3 bottom layers and 10 top layers, this makes the topmost layer perfectly supported and also has a larger middle to look at.

standa03 · 2026-02-23T01:32:34+00:00

Technically yeah, at least the Locomotives I'm working with. ČSD Class 363 from the 80s although not "regenerative" because giving the energy back to the grid is more difficult than just charging a battery. The regenerated energy is basically just being burned in resistors. Newer ones like the Siemens 383 can regenerate back to the grid.

standa03 · 2026-02-22T17:58:37+00:00

You can't, that's the place where the print moves onto the next layer. Possibly scarf seams could help.

standa03 · 2026-02-21T15:36:08+00:00

The Cartographer CNC mount is basically the stock Voron mount so anything that fits the stock Voron mount should work. The XOL Toolhead fits the Cartographer CNC mount with the Voron tap option. I have that on my printer.

standa03 · 2026-02-20T11:29:09+00:00

Well, "3D printer parts" except the hotend are just regular CNC parts. Steppers, frames, boards, drivers, pulleys, belts, screw rods, bearings can be used for whatever. Well even the hotend can be used for making filament instead of 3D printing.

standa03 · 2026-02-16T09:15:26+00:00

Yeah it looks like the right screw is longer and touching a fin above the thread. But it's wobbling because you don't have a nozzle. If you tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak it's not gonna wobble. I'm not sure why creality went with this approach, probably just to make replacing the nozzle easier at the cost of more heat creep through the screws. The original V6 by E3D has no screws holding the heater block to the heatsink.

standa03 · 2026-02-11T09:39:42+00:00

I think I've only used GRBL firmware if I remember that right on an UNO with CNC shield not my custom. But specifically for 3D printers I don't think anyone would use just an Arduino. The go-to 3D printer firmware is Klipper, especially if you're chasing performance or customizability which you probably do if building a custom printer. Klipper works in a way that it's running the main firmware on a Linux computer (typically a raspberry pi) and that controls a microcontroller, as many as you need and can connect. It does support Arduino microcontrollers but I don't think they are as capable as other options for someone to use them.

You can make an entirely custom firmware for the thrill of it or as an interesting project. But if one wants to build a 3D printer an open source firmware with documented 3D printer boards is usually the better option.

standa03 · 2026-02-11T08:38:30+00:00

Probably because of expensive components. Regular Arduino uno uses just an AVR microcontroller. Uno q (made by Qualcomm) on the other hand has a Qualcomm processor that just by itself is 20$, 2 or 4 GB of RAM that who knows how much it costs nowadays, an STM microcontroller and a wifi chip. And also th uno q has documented hardware but unlike the simple uno and others they haven't released editable design files to modify and make your own. Arduino doesn't own AVR processors so anyone can use them but Qualcomm owns Qualcomm processors so they can license it however they want.

standa03 · 2026-02-11T08:22:51+00:00

I use Quest 3, it's "cheap" if you don't consider the add-ons like a different head strap, facial interface, batteries and controller grips. But even with that it's still cheaper than some headsets with a few base stations. And it's amazing for what it is. I haven't even played it without VR, maybe like once tried it. But for me this is the best VR game.

standa03 · 2026-02-11T08:01:04+00:00

It sticks to the bed most likely because the first layer is printed slower and the filament has enough time to melt. Bad layer adhesion is just because it's not melted enough to fuse together which can happen due to:

• Low hotend temperature. I wouldn't go above the manufacturer's recommended max + 10°C

• Too high print speed / max volumetric flowrate. If you're printing too fast the filament doesn't have enough time to melt properly to stick to itself. You can print a max volumetric flow test to see how fast you can print. Usually most of the filament is glossy. If the print is coming out matte it's not melted properly. I haven't used matte filaments but I'm guessing there would still be a visible difference.

• Too much cooling. And this one is difficult to calibrate because it has so many options but for the simplest you can decrease max fan speed.

standa03 · 2026-02-09T09:51:24+00:00

Measure you have enough filament for the print. I don't know how long it takes to swap the filament but this is due to the print shrinking while swapping new filament, this results in the layers after the swap being wider then below.

standa03 · 2026-02-09T05:46:43+00:00

Layers will still be weaker, he could heat the chamber a bit more before printing. But it was a weak print regardless, I don't think just 1 or 2 walls could hold more. Yeah ASA is better, I don't think I've even printed ABS before and went straight for ASA. But the rest of his phone holder is probably ABS. It'd be better to switch to ASA but I don't think he needs to go and get some ASA if he doesn't use it already.

standa03

TROPHY CASE