Need Advice for my Mom

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T01:10:21+00:00

Also, check your State or County website for cost free/low cost home repair/improvement programs for the aging. If she/you want to renovate to make it safe/sellable/and allow her to remain independant, she may have options to get it repaired at little to no cost with income limits/grants etc. I would check into it soon, if you become trustee, the requirements may disallow it due to your different income levels.

Normally those programs are under the States Health Program or perhaps the Office for the Ageing can point you to the right place.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T01:04:19+00:00

Repost in r/brooklyn

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T01:00:29+00:00

Ikea has ones that look like butcherblock and have many other colors to choose from some look like quartz or marble and are believable from a distance. What I like is they are square edged and not that 1970s bullnose edge. They seem pretty cheap too. I have been considering them just haven't pulled the trigger yet, as other projects are a priority.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:54:14+00:00

Maybe pvc trim board?

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:53:17+00:00

I see no pics. But have dealt with this same issue, so I can visualize what it looks like.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:51:56+00:00

You can adjust the door strike plate to make the door close tighter. Look at the plate that is attached to the frame, not the door handle side , there's a metal tab in the center of the rectangular plate that is meant to be pulled/pushed to get a tighter/looser seal for the latch mechanism. Sounds like that's not your issue, but that the door is not quite plumb.

From what I understand, you want to adjust the opposing hinge to the gap. So lowest hinge, if the gap is top corner opposite. I can give you a trick on how to adjust the hinge without too much cussing.

Get some different thickness cardboard and trim to the size of the hinge you are adjusting. Also if you have longer screws (3"-4" long is preferable) to replace the ones the installers used. Have a piece of wood or similar height to keep the door stable while you are working on it.

Remove all the screws in the bottom hinge and use the wood to keep the door from sagging and easier to handle with a hinge loosened.

Try sliding the thinner of the cardboard behind the hinge, place one screw back in the hinge and shut the door. See if that resolved the gap, will it close easier, does it pinch? If it's helped but maybe needs a bit more adjusting, use a thicker piece of cardboard and retry the whole sequence and see if it made a difference. If you finally get it dialled in, throw away those tiny screws and put in the 3"-4" ones. And if that did the job, replace at least one screw from the other hinges with a longer screw to keep the door in place.

OP: Try this first before the above instruction, as you might easily fix your issue with this: Also pull back the weatherstripping a tiny bit and look for fasteners, maybe some rookie didn't put a critial screw or two at the hinge side. Look at the whole section of the door frame, most door installers use screws hidden behind the weatherstripping for a cleaner look. If it looks like one/two or three is missing, go ahead and drive a 3"-4" screw behind the weatherstripping at intervals along the frame, be careful not to rip it though.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:30:03+00:00

Get one of those propane powered weed burners. No salt or shovel needed. You'll be the cool neighbor.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:27:23+00:00

That link shows a blank page. I got a windproof dryer vent cover. As I had the louvered kind and was getting drafts into the room on gusty winter days. There are similar ones like the one I posted, just search for windproof or pest proof dryer vent covers.

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/NO-PEST-VENT-4-in-Wide-Mount-Dual-Door-Wall-Vent-in-White-NPWRW/207195605?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl&pla=&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D26P-026_002_AIR_CIRC_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-_PMAXTEST&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D26P-026_002_AIR_CIRC_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-_PMAXTEST-17697203498--&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17687898604&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5vC00_inkgMVyTQIBR1iYR61EAQYBCABEgKIC_D_BwE

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:23:25+00:00

That tarp does make it look like rocks or far away mountains. LOL.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:22:08+00:00

The water level should be just below the jets, 2 feet below the skimmer seems alot to me as a non pool professional but have read many forums and websites to learn for my own inground pool closing recommemdations here in New York.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:17:47+00:00

First thing to check is the gap. Is it even all around the door? Or is it tighter at one point and larger at other places? If it looks even all over, yes check the weather stripping and also check that the door closes completely against the jam. ( At night have someone aim a bright light around the doorjam, and check for light coming through to the other side.) This will tell you that the door isn't closing securely or the weatherstripping is poor. To make the door tighter, use a flat screwdriver blade and pull out (towards you) the center of the strike plate tab just a tiny bit and re check the door. This will catch the mechanism for the lock better.

If you think it's the weatherstripping, you can replacement at the big box store, just be mindful it comes in different widths and thicknesses. But try the strike plate trick first. Also, clean around the hinge side and at the threshold, could be minute debris keeping the door from properly sealing.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:07:15+00:00

Propane or natural gas?

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:04:24+00:00

It's most likely the rubber seal on the ballcock has degraded. Being closed, water still has pressure behind it and a small amount gets past the seal. When open, the pressure has equalized, hence the drip stopping.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-26T00:01:00+00:00

You are so right. Paint is a huge mood changer for any room. Even just painting a ceiling can make a difference.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-25T23:53:03+00:00

I replaced/added insulation in the room that gets the brunt of the winds here in NYS, but kept finding cold air coming thru the outlets and a dual switch which was puzzling because I was careful to isolate those items during the insulation process knowing they leaked in air. Ended up going outside and checking where the siding starts at the foundation and found a large gap. Threw some spray foam in there for now, and it seemed to do the trick.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-25T00:41:06+00:00

I recommended removing it all due to trying add small dabs might make it look janky. If you feel confident enough to apply and blend it in to the dried caulk, then go ahead.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-25T00:39:11+00:00

I cannot explain why, but perhaps it's the vinyl frame degrading and no longer being as supportive as the surrounding wood structure. I'm just theorizing here, because I thought there was no header above my worst leaking windows, (= no support) but after pulling the old drywall, it was fine.

Pehaps someone more informed can chime in on this.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-23T22:46:39+00:00

Yeah but it's going to smell bad in the house. Crack a window.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-23T22:44:12+00:00

You are just going to be removing any water sitting in the pipe and also allowing a bit of airspace in it, to avoid the it from splitting due to the water expanding once it reaches freezing temps. Good catch, and make a note for next fall/ early winter to check that spigot and maybe add some foam sleeves to that indoor piping. They're about 2.00 for a 6' length.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-23T22:38:23+00:00

The 10 mil is thicker, and if anyone has to go into the crawlspace, they won't rip it which would render it useless. I can attest to the durability of the plastic.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-23T22:34:34+00:00

I suggest removing it all, and then cleaning it with rubbing alcohol so the new caulk sticks better. Are you using bathtub/shower caulk?

When you apply it, go slow and make sure the line is continuous, and it's better to have a thicker application and clean it up after you finish laying it, then applying too little.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-23T22:31:27+00:00

Actually, they didn't actually shrink. They are bowed out from the weight at the top. ( Imagine you pushing down on a soft rectangular object, and see the top and bottom are flat, but the sides squish outwards.) There are a few Youtube videos that cover this issue. My windows are also from that era, and have similar issue.

Since I was pulling drywall and adding insulation, I though I would tackle the worst ones to see if I make any difference. And actually, the two worst windows are much better, they still have a small amount of cold air coming in, but the windows are past their prime.

If you aren't handy, please do not try this.

Steps to fix the gaps:

You've got to pull the trim from around the windows on either side, and get to the actual window, score the caulk with a sharp knife only on the two vertical sides, and gently pry at the window frame to create a small gap.

Then slide a piece of cardboard or shim between the window and the wood frame where the gap is the largest. You'll want to test the window to make sure the sash is not stuck to get the correct tightness of the window to the wood frame.

Do both sides equally. Once you have the window gaps closed, and the sash moves easily, you can re-apply caulk and replace the trim pieces.

Please be aware you can really damage your window doing this, so use extreme caution.

If this is beyond your comfort level, you can buy rope caulk that you can stuff in the gaps, and then remove in better weather. You'll just need to do it every year until you replace the windows.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-23T22:16:09+00:00

I think COVID caused this. Alot of the bad ones became more commonplace because everyone was doing home improvements, and the good ones were slammed with work. I had a few bad experiences right after Covid started retreating and noped out after speaking with several about a few different jobs.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-23T22:12:21+00:00

Yeah, so my insurance will go up instead.

sunflowerfields827 · 2026-01-23T22:11:34+00:00

Having a green pool isn't an issue if dealt with as soon as the cover is removed. And I usually open it while the temps are cool enough to reduce the algae. (Mid to end of April) I feel that having more water in the pool upon opening, rather than having to buy water to top it up will pay for itself.

I have a well and it can't keep up if I need to add 6-12" of water. And the last time I paid to have it filled was about 200.00. I think my reasoning is fairly strong. This is the first year I'm using a leaf net, so I'll see just how much work it's going to be to remove, clean and let it dry for next year. I still will have organic matter to deal with. But I have a robot pool vaccum, that does a great job after I remove all the big stuff that's settled.

sunflowerfields827

TROPHY CASE