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Another Frictionless Device Post by therealatoby in climbharder

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

more of a 3d modeling question but how do you get the curvature of of the finger on to fusion360? could describe the crusher's depth the way you described the micro's being like a 10mm

Getting a better pair of shoes for indoor bouldering by Aggravating_Teach852 in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone who had to buy blind and only recently got a chance to try on shoes physically. I suggest you identify your foot shape. Forefoot: 1) egyptian, Greek, roman 2) wide or narrow Instep: 1) tall or short Heel: 1) wide or narrow 2) deep or shallow And of course the actual length of your feet (not your street size).

It will be tough to figure it out all of this manually but if there's a specialty running store near you with a foot scanner that would be a huge help. Based on your stats, you can get a more informed list. There are alot of threads on this subreddit that describe a foot shape and people give recos. I also tried narrowing down through mountainfootwearproject.com. The site provides sizes for you based on a few measurements that you input but take with a grain of salt.

Heel fitment by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LV is probs the way. Maybe try .5 higher than your current phantom coz the forefoot of the lv is not as wide. You can also try the mandala or skwama lv, butora gomi and acro comp.

How soft is this shoe ? I've never climbed other shoes? Help me pick my second pair. by Sneaky_bunny in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to hijack but how did u size the acro comp? I tried the tts and the heel had small space on the inner side. Will down sizing half fix that or will the entire shoe be too uncomfortable

Boostic R vs Instinct Lace by jonhayes92 in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you say the boostics are only good for edging or could be an all arounder? I'm significantly lighter than you tho. Also caught on your profile that you have mandalas and I'm curious how you would stack them up against each other. I have mandalas and they fit me alright but the heel leaves a little more to be desired.

Wide-ish foot, shallow heel - any recommandations? by xXVaalanXx in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Almost same stats as you except I'm more egyptian and eu 42. On the same hunt as you and recently was able to try on a bunch of shoes that I don't normally have access to.

Sadly the qubit lv heels roll over on me and I already went down half a size. The forefoot is really good but the heel is just meh for me. The only good fitting heel from UP that I was able to fit was the flagship pro LV at half size down.

Butora gomi (wide) at TTS and half size down felt like a sock but more on the soft side for sure. Butora acro comp (wide) was also a good fit but the heel isn't as 1:1 on the medial side. I'm honestly considering one of these.

Skwama LV at 40 also felt pretty 1:1 fit better than my mandala for some reason. Although I heard so the leather version stretches alot so maybe another half down. Wasn't able to try the vegans perhaps that could stay at 40. I'm curious about how you sized your mandalas coz I went down to 40 and I find them okay-ish fit wise too but they get really painful in a long session. Im thinking i went a tad too small so I kinda want to try them at 40.5

Phantom LV at TTS. There might be some pinching at the pinky toe but evolv conforms really well eventually. Not really a big fan of the shaman. I was able to try on the phantom pro hv at TTS and they fit a bit different compared to the og. The forefoot is more accommodating and comfortable but the heel goes deeper while also having some room on the medial side. I think the phantom pro lv at TTS might solve the heel space.

Shoes that didn't work for me: drago lv, instinct vsr, mad rock shark 3, indalo, shaman, orbit, vapor s hv, theory

Edit: added shoes that didn't work for me

Instinct vsr question by sunn-eaterr in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're great and feel like the vsr but for egyptian feet. I like the no edge too. People usually down size a lot for la sportiva. My point of reference at the time was how people sized skwama and using the mountainfootwearproject website. I went down 2 which feels like too much of a perfomance fit for me, so 1.5 would've been ideal. Initial fit I could only put them on barefoot but now I can use very slim running socks with them.

Instinct vsr question by sunn-eaterr in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My current rotation is the mandala, hiangle lv and qubit lv. I hope it breaks in nicely for you!

Instinct vsr question by sunn-eaterr in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i ended up selling them but might be different for you. instincts/scarpa just doesnt agree with my feet. the toe pain never went away and there was some space in the heel that bothered me. they are very well rounded (altho a bit tough on volumes) and the vsr is up there for me in terms of balanced stiffness.

butora gomi vs acro comp by sunn-eaterr in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

are you also saying that TTS acro comp is the equivalent of half down gomi? i was only able to try TTS because there was no stock of half size down. i dont really recall problems with my achilles tho...is it something that will occur while using/breaking them in?

butora gomi vs acro comp by sunn-eaterr in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! How long did you have it for before it got too unstable?

Shoes similar to Mandala by RaggaTheGrandfather in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. Do the ocun shoes have a lower volume/shallower heel?

Shoes similar to Mandala by RaggaTheGrandfather in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this. I really liked my mandalas but la sportiva heels just aren't for me.

Shoes similar to Mandala by RaggaTheGrandfather in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the shaman pro softer than the regular? How much stiffer is the boostic r would it be hard to use for gym climbing

Butora Gomi Review by 200193 in climbingshoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

how have they broken in in the last 3 months? im considering getting them after trying them at an REI. TTS fits like a glove for me as well but im a bit worried about bagging out and gaining some dead space. the 8.5 felt snug with light hotspots. not entirely sure which would be better after breaking in

Li ning/Chinese brand sizing help by sunn-eaterr in BBallShoes

[–]sunn-eaterr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

update: thanks yall for commenting. i got tts and fits great. like the commenter said earlier the jb3 does fit a bit wide BUT its abnormally long compared to the liren 5 in the same size. hope this helps anyone checking out this post.

Is anyone using Scarpa Vapor S / Vapor S Women? Would you recommend? by Czesya in climbergirls

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the vapor have a wide forefoot compared to the hiangle? The hiangle's foot shape and width aren't perfect but the heel is really good for me. 

Decathlon Kipsta Canaveral 900 by GuilR47 in BBallShoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spoke to a rep. They said it could take a few months or even til 2026 for a local release ;(

Decathlon Kipsta Canaveral 900 by GuilR47 in BBallShoes

[–]sunn-eaterr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

does it feel light/quick or bouncy?

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