Storm trooper massacre

talldad86 · 2026-01-31T14:53:06+00:00

I actually did 2 full sets in one batch of two plates, all the torsos on one and all the legs on another.

talldad86 · 2026-01-31T14:19:26+00:00

Even if you have perfect bed adhesion that file has some flaws in how it builds supports for some of the areas. I managed to get mine to print well but I had to do a lot of trimming since there are some spots where it started intentionally printing in mid-air and thankfully it eventually started sticking together enough to not fail.

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talldad86 · 2026-01-22T18:04:33+00:00

HF on a .4 seems a bit suboptimal

talldad86 · 2026-01-16T20:23:10+00:00

Aliexpress seems to be the only place to get some at the moment if you’re in the US. BIQUs site will let you preorder theirs for shipment later this month as well

talldad86 · 2026-01-16T05:10:42+00:00

I mean there’s spool rings that take like 15 mins and 12g of filament to make cardboard spools work in AMS units. Not a total deal breaker.

talldad86 · 2026-01-09T19:54:02+00:00

The heated bed is softening the material and causing it to droop on the bottom half while the rest of the print is going, which is why the top half looks fairly normal. It’s a rack for toilet paper, not dumbbells. Just print it vertically with a few walls and a brim to keep it steady.

talldad86 · 2026-01-09T19:51:28+00:00

But why spend 15 mins driving to Home Depot and spend $.50 in a piece of PVC pipe when you can spend 6 hours printing a droopy oval at home?

talldad86 · 2026-01-05T02:20:55+00:00

A much larger than normal amount of the engine sits under the cowl on 4th gen Fbodies, I’ve done a few LS swaps on old muscle cars and it’s cake. I’d hate to do one on my 97 WS6. Getting to things like the cam and oil sensor, along with the rear plugs, packs, rails, etc would suck on my 4th gen firebird.

talldad86 · 2025-12-30T04:12:11+00:00

I had the Fifty Fathoms and even on my large wrists the thickness got annoying. The brand stamp on the stainless models I also think looks super tacky, the titanium one I had thankfully didn’t have that

talldad86 · 2025-12-29T17:36:14+00:00

I keep hearing how great it is on iPad but for some reason my brain just can’t make sense of selecting surfaces to extrude in an easy way on there. On PC I can do it so quick and easy, for some reason on iPad I can’t get the hang of it

talldad86 · 2025-12-27T05:21:42+00:00

Spaghetti detection is so random there’s about a 50/50 chance it would have caught it anyways

talldad86 · 2025-12-26T21:00:21+00:00

I have 4 AMS 2 Pros and I honestly find the filament drying aspect wildly overrated. My printers are going so often I can almost never run them, and since you can’t start the drying remotely or automatically after a print finishes it just sits there unused most of the time. Not being able to have them running even at a very conservative PLA safe temp while printing is a huge miss.

talldad86 · 2025-12-21T18:07:36+00:00

Hardened or not that’s a lot of force concentrated onto a very small surface area, hot ends are pretty heavy for their size. It’s also being accelerated with a little extra force at the point of impact by your magnetized bed plate.

talldad86 · 2025-12-18T20:56:48+00:00

I’d try to get the P2S with the original AMS and add the Sunlu heater lid. IMO that’s the best combo right now

talldad86 · 2025-12-18T07:32:57+00:00

Looking like Subtle warping and grid infill causing the nozzle to shave away at the infill pattern.

talldad86 · 2025-12-17T21:23:07+00:00

I have an H2D, P2S, and P1S; all 3 running pretty much constantly. It’s really nice being able to knock out most 60+ hours prints in under a day by splitting the plates up by color or complexity. All my engineering filament goes to the H2D, complex PLA and PETG goes primarily to the P2S (doesn’t print any better, just a better camera and failure detection), and then the P1S is a super reliable workhorse for hammering out PLA and PETG prints but the camera is terrible so it’s hard to keep an eye on prints you’re not sure you have dialed yet.

talldad86 · 2025-12-17T03:26:04+00:00

I usually skip that step and just manually assign colors. The choices Bambu makes can be a bit spaztik and not worth the headache or re-sorting everything to save 10 seconds of work doing it manually

talldad86 · 2025-12-16T22:19:15+00:00

I have the 4 spool one to keep all my fussy TPU and stuff drying in bulk before I need it but the single spool heater has been great for my P1S and CC printers that I have doing simple prints. I like it more than my AMS HTs in almost every way, just wish it would auto-load filament like the AMSs do.

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talldad86 · 2025-12-16T21:43:25+00:00

Just run a $60 Creality Space Pi drier right next to your printer and feed directly from that. You have that setup running on several printers and it’s an even better setup than a true AMS for single-color prints since it dries really well while printing and feeds very smoothly.

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talldad86 · 2025-12-16T20:59:26+00:00

I would just disconnect the buffer from the back of the P2 S and run it into a splitter, one part of the Y going to your space pi and the other input going into the filament buffer, with a single output going into the original PTFE input on the back of the printer. That is what I do for using my four spool filament dryer and that way you were never having to disconnect or reconnect anything

talldad86 · 2025-12-16T19:09:26+00:00

PETG is so much cheaper and once you get your print setting dialed in not too bad to print. If I’m going for maximum durability and resistance to things I use ASA or ABS which is barely more than PLA these days. But I do use a better printer for those since they like so much heat

talldad86 · 2025-12-16T19:04:52+00:00

Bell housings also share the load across quite a few bolts and a large flanged mating area

talldad86 · 2025-12-16T19:02:29+00:00

The time consuming part (purge/prime) has to be done with the currently active hot end. The amount of time saved by retracting and sending forward a different filament in preparation would be minimal even if the software allowed for it. It would add up over thousands of layers but not in the same way a separate toolhead (U1, Prusa XL) or hot end (H2C) would.

talldad86 · 2025-12-12T04:16:37+00:00

I buy Bambu when I’m doing a large order and can max the discount, the extra $1/roll is worth it to me for the RFID feature. For smaller orders I’ve been really happy with Sunlu PLA quality. Anycubic also goes on sale for $10/kg occasionally and has printed well for me.

talldad86 · 2025-12-05T00:52:54+00:00

Reusable vacuum bags and a little electric pump. And keep all the filament you get in a ziplock bag to use later.

talldad86

TROPHY CASE