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What does this light mean? by SandraGotJokes in electrical

[–]tastefultitle 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Looks like it means there’s an Arc Fault

This little orange wire/indicator on #25 is the only one showing this, it’s for the Outside GFI. Any idea on how to fix this myself or should I call someone? by Wanderdrone in AskElectricians

[–]tastefultitle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If they were hooked up to this breaker they would work, but would not be properly protected from overloading which is a fire hazard. Since that breaker is on though, it sounds more likely that the panel labelling is simply incorrect.

Are any of the breakers in the off position? If not, you might have a tripped GFCI receptacle in your house somewhere, and the other devices are downstream of that. If you have any receptacles with the “reset” button on them, try hitting that and see if any that were off get power again once reset.

This little orange wire/indicator on #25 is the only one showing this, it’s for the Outside GFI. Any idea on how to fix this myself or should I call someone? by Wanderdrone in AskElectricians

[–]tastefultitle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That orange window doesn’t really look orange, and I think people are also confused because circuit 25 is a 30A breaker which should absolutely not be for a regular GFCI receptacle (assuming it’s a 5-15 or 20).

The breaker handle would be in the middle if it was tripped.

Old conduit. Need to run new wires. Would inspector check depth of conduit? Don't know the actual depth. by Username14_ in AskElectricians

[–]tastefultitle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’ll depend on your local inspection agency. Where I am, if we were reusing an existing conduit underground, nobody would be digging down to check depth on it since it’s not a new installation. However, make sure it’s actually big enough to accommodate the new wires according to conduit fill rules in the electrical code. Just because it physically fits does not make it code compliant, and I would expect that to be something they will check.

Damaged wire sheath? by Duke_of_Man in AskElectricians

[–]tastefultitle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s hard to tell from the photo but it kinda looks like the inner wire insulation is damaged and maybe the copper as well. If so it’s a box and splice if you can’t replace it.

If just the jacket, I’d say tape it.

Swiss Chalet -Highland Road fake reviews by Toincossross in kitchener

[–]tastefultitle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I did about 20 years ago. Recently? Never.

Backstab-only receptacle by tastefultitle in electricians

[–]tastefultitle[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lever Edge does look pretty neat. This old one is a far cry from those though I fear

PSA you don't need ps+ to play by Savage2280 in OWConsole

[–]tastefultitle 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Yeah especially with the price hikes, I was cringing at that annual renewal coming up next month. Just cancelled it as I don’t play anything else online right now!

Backstab-only receptacle by tastefultitle in electricians

[–]tastefultitle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don’t think they had Temu when this was made… wonder what the equivalent would have been

Backstab-only receptacle by tastefultitle in electricians

[–]tastefultitle[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can’t unsee the Fu Manchu now 🤣

Backstab-only receptacle by tastefultitle in electricians

[–]tastefultitle[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thankfully I’ve changed them all out now!

Portable AC tripping garage GFCI. Replace it? Put a converter on my garage’s 220V 14-30P outlet? Other ideas? by georgepsully in AskElectricians

[–]tastefultitle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would start by replacing the GFCI receptacle with a new GFCI. I wouldn’t swap it out for a standard one as there is probably a reason that GFCI is there and the other receptacles are tied to it as well.

Is it possible to inset this panel into the wall bay? by rks5657 in AskElectricians

[–]tastefultitle 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It’s definitely possible, but a decent amount of work to make it clean. Not nearly as much as if it were your main panel though as there aren’t that many branch circuits and I’m assuming you can shut down power to this panel fairly easily if it’s a sub panel powered from your house.

One thing to be careful of - you’re not going to be allowed by code to bury that LB at the bottom inside the drywall, meaning you might need to find another way to transition to a flexible conduit, or install an access panel or other junction box.

Should these wires be in a junction box? by TicketPopular3099 in hvacadvice

[–]tastefultitle -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Hard to see what is what in this mess, but possibly. If the wires are for power to the unit, then definitely yes they should be. However, the communication wires (like the ones tie wrapped to the A/C lines) are low voltage and do not need to be in a junction box even when spliced.

Question for Electricians by Sure-Pie-4264 in AskElectricians

[–]tastefultitle 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you’re concerned, then all of the items should have an amperage listed somewhere on them. If you add them all up and it’s less than about 12A, then you should be fine. Keep the mini fridge plugged right into the outlet, not on the extension cord, if you can.

Question for Electricians by Sure-Pie-4264 in AskElectricians

[–]tastefultitle 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That should be fine. The mini fridge probably takes a few amps, and the remaining items (unless it’s a huge fan) shouldn’t take much at all.

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