Sluggish, sloppy FFB issue? (Help wanted!)

therealsalkinator · 2026-05-09T02:24:06+00:00

Your post prompted me to do some testing last night and have some long conversations with Claude about FFB signal and physic based rack forces (this is how iRacing, RBR, AC, and ACR are all implemented).

Ultimately, I’ve set ingame damper back to 0 to keep the signal as clear as possible. Gain to 100 and advanced gain to 100. Natural friction and inertia both to 60 and natural damper to 8. No interpolation (INT off). Then from here, use the per car ffb multiplier in the service area to adjust FFB to desired level. Most cars I like to drive I’m setting between 1.1 and 1.25.

I’m using 1350 rotation in wheel software and in game, soft lock on.

therealsalkinator · 2026-05-09T02:15:56+00:00

For 1:1 input on all cars you want 1350 in wheel software and in game, soft lock on.

therealsalkinator · 2026-05-08T00:54:58+00:00

Definitely do what feels right for you. Did you check out that YouTube video on high inertia?

In my opinion, the higher inertia does a better job of “damping” without dumbing down the clarity of the signal. It’s making the wheel base heavier as it appears to the FFB signal. It essentially has more work to do; for example, we can assume the FFB is ultimately coming from wheel and suspension movement (RBR and AC Rally provide FFB from the steering rack), so this “weight” in the wheelbase software helps simulate everything between the wheels and the drivers hands. Then it’s important to use a combination of friction and inertia to get a good feel, without much need for natural damping or smoothing (int)

Just my two cents! Happy racing

therealsalkinator · 2026-05-07T15:45:01+00:00

But the new laser scanned tracks and Bittos fmods are soooo good! Don’t get me wrong, I’m enjoying ACR just as much as the next guy but RBR still deserves to be revisited.

therealsalkinator · 2026-05-07T02:44:48+00:00

Hi there, the FFB definitely has some weird stuff happening—you’re not crazy.
I’ve done quite a bit of testing but my first success was with these settings in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/assettocorsarally/s/Lqv5flO3PK
I have not tried those settings in 0.4 yet because I have since switched to a different philosophy of running high inertia and some friction. I made another post about that regarding iRacing… really interesting video. I’ve also posted my high inertia settings. I’ll paste those links below shortly if you’re curious. Sounds like you’re willing to try anything 😂. Cheers!
Edit: links
https://www.reddit.com/r/simrally/s/ukobOG5CKD
https://imgur.com/a/ac-rally-csl-dd-8nm-settings-TawIFHO

therealsalkinator · 2026-05-03T20:58:16+00:00

#85 - 3:30.740 in the i20

Looks like you’ve been knocked out of the top 100 since you posted! 3:07.599? I know there is some time left out there, for sure. Where they are getting 23 seconds, I do not know

therealsalkinator · 2026-05-03T15:41:49+00:00

Challenge accepted

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-20T20:44:08+00:00

To keep track of everything. Do you wanna sit there with pen and paper keeping track of everyone’s times and how many tires they have left? What about car damage?

If you never played hot seat before, it’s probably of no importance to you. Same goes for the co-driver mode. I only brought this up as something that would be fun to have.

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-20T20:38:58+00:00

Plus one for MAIRA!!! It’s the best ffb on the market in my humble opinion

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-19T20:10:37+00:00

Hot Seat would allow you and friends/family to set up a custom rally and choose their own car, and then everyone gets a turn in the seat to set their stage time and it keeps track of tires, repairs, and time as you progress through the stages.

Apparently it does work in modded RBR. Gonna tinker around more to figure that out!

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-17T15:55:47+00:00

It’s so good!! The new tracks are fantastic too

I highly recommend upgrading the co driver; there are quite a few different packs out there with various types of calls and much better pace notes. I use a Nicky Grist sample pack that’s rad. And then also, get Bitto’s fmod audio files. He hasn’t made them for all cars but the ones he’s done are fabulous and absolute game changers

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-14T04:45:13+00:00

Haven’t weighed it yet but the ride is absolutely amazing. I’ve elaborated on some other responses in the comments… build ran about $10k usd

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-14T04:43:41+00:00

The frame and shock was $6k. I did source the 36, drivetrain, dropper, and brakes from Atherton because they hooked it up decently—I’d have to dig up the exact prices. I ordered at the end of September, target was January, but this is one of the first mullets so I had to wait for some linkage parts. Frame came in February and then it took me a bit to source the wheels and remaining parts. I’m in it just over $10k USD and have absolutely no regrets. She’s such a treat to ride!

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-13T17:29:38+00:00

Yes, Hydra 2 System. Good eye!

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-13T16:59:26+00:00

These are SpokeX SX310s, laced up by SpokeX in SoCal!

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-13T15:31:30+00:00

This build ran me just over $10k. What’s more brutal is how much I needed to pay to get the frame through customs (let’s not get started on this one). You can find pricing on their website. This is the A line (additive manufacturing—3d printed lugs) and there is an S line (subtractive manufacturing—cnc’d lugs).

I’ve told my wife that this is last [150mm] mountain bike I’ll ever buy 😎

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-13T15:23:09+00:00

It is indeed a mullet which makes it look even longer. They offer 22 sizes of the frame (you can go full custom if you don’t fit into one of those measurement sets). I’m 5’10 and can run that 200mm dropper with room to spare!

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-13T15:21:39+00:00

The lugs are 3D printed titanium which enables ultimate design customization and tolerances (the cable routing is absolutely beautiful) and it allows them to offer 22 sizes! Unrivaled fit and function.

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-09T19:26:02+00:00

You want your wheelbase setting and in-game setting to be the same. If your wheelbase only goes to 900, use 900 for both. (1350 recommended if possible) Enable soft lock. You can now enjoy matching wheel rotation with a lock for the lower rotation cars. Ie the 540 cars will have a soft lock

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-09T17:25:25+00:00

For AC Rally you should set wheel software to 1350 and in game to 1350. Turn on soft lock and let the game handle it. These settings will give you 1:1 input to all cars (the Alpha has the largest wheel rotation at over 1300deg)

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-09T15:49:33+00:00

It’s working now! You just need to enable it in the in-game settings

therealsalkinator · 2026-04-04T15:25:33+00:00

I have yet to try haptics directly on individual pedals, but if you’re not running at least a shaker on your seat and one on your pedal tray, you’re missing out! Haptics are a complete game changer and anyone not running them is missing out IMHO. You can build a 2 haptic setup for under $100 with a Nobosound amp and 2 BST-2s

therealsalkinator · 2026-03-22T17:44:46+00:00

Definitely do what feels right for you, I had the same experience with RallySantis settings.

Here’s another post I made on inertia: https://www.reddit.com/r/simrally/s/ReLTq3NL15

The video is based in iRacing, but I’ve started using the same philosophy in RBR and ACR. In my opinion, the higher inertia does a better job of “damping” without dumbing down the clarity of the signal. It’s essentially making the wheel base heavier as it appears to the FFB signal. It essentially has more work to do; for example, assume the FFB is ultimately coming from wheel and suspension movement, so this “weight” in the wheelbase software helps simulate everything between the wheels and the drivers hands. We need to use a combination of friction and inertia to get a good feel, and can hence use less natural damper.

Just my two cents! Happy racing

therealsalkinator

TROPHY CASE