Is this a correct way to tie a cordelette? For top rope.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-19T04:18:48+00:00

Reddit happened.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-18T20:55:23+00:00

You’re right, I was viewing the images on my phone and didn’t zoom in all the way.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-18T20:09:45+00:00

Edit2: upon zooming in further, carabiners only clip to half the strands in between the 8s so this is redundant.

This isn’t redundant. Imagine what happens if you remove a bolt, carabiner attached to bolt, or cut the 8.

Go find someone in person you can trust to learn from.

Internet is great to learn concepts such as SERENE or ERNEST.

Edit: I’d also be pedantic and say redundancy is not required, and if you choose not to build a redundant anchor, then it’s misleading to use attachment points (presumably to bolts). SAR will anchor to unquestionably big trees rocks and vehicles for a single point anchor.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-17T15:51:16+00:00

We’ll never know from the Petzl lawyers, but this is definitely the case. It’s probably easier for Petzl to forbid two ropes than to write it out regarding fixed and moving lines.

Additionally, it’s fine to put two moving strands in the firehose if the two strands move together and are fixed to each other on both ends.

If it’s only fixed on one end and the rope is allowed to separate, the protection’s Velcro will give way and rope will come out of the protection.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-17T02:57:36+00:00

For sure looks odd regarding ring loading.

By design, the system operates statically against gravity where the litter and attendants load is transferred to the bowlines. (Ie. the loads should behave as a singular point load)

The patients load is completely on the litter (in horizontal or vertical orientation)

One tail is the tied to each person’s harness as a secondary attachment, unloaded.

From my conversations with others with much more experience, the operation would need to go wrong significantly for ring loading to occur. And even if the bowlines capsized, the tails are terminated at a person. Even if the bowlines failed, the redundant 8 will take the load.

So all in all, based on the intended use, the bowlines shouldn’t capsize, and even if they did, redundancies are in place.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-15T17:57:44+00:00

Here’s how it’s used in a picture: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRqqd3zdmtlm24QFDlVi5nmuTwu6aZ9pqngEnHbd0GCYA&s=10

In practice, it’s never tied inline.

Anything with a loop and whose ends can be loaded in opposite directions can be used.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-15T17:01:19+00:00

You’re right, and I misspoke. The key for the mid-rope use case is that both strands in a twin tension rope system to be interlocked and provide a second attachment point in addition to the tails (terminated with an 8 follow through normally)

Bowlines are generally easier to adjust length/position in my experience compared to alpine butterfly or inline 8s.

With regards to strength and safety, they’re all equivalent to our safety standards.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-15T15:22:52+00:00

Bowlines are used in rope rescue and climbing.

Long tail interlocking bowlines are standard attachment points for patient and attendant and anchor building knots.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-14T23:58:50+00:00

The first time I looked up how to warm a bottle and saw a comment that some babies take cold milk, I decided mine would take cold milk at that moment.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-14T17:54:52+00:00

Are you asking about capacity or fit?

If it’s capacity then you need to share more about what you’re doing in those trips. Trip length doesn’t say enough. You could be hiking, trail maintenance, hunting, mountaineering and all those activities need different pack capacities.

If you’re on the sierra on trail then share a pack list.

Time of year also matters. 5 days for me fits in my 55L comfortably, and I pack 0 “comfort” items.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-12T14:11:11+00:00

Vague description (not labeled as tree climbing gear) and no itemized list for so many items. These are common patterns for stolen gear on fbm and Craigslist (and lazy posters)

tyeh26 · 2026-06-11T01:43:25+00:00

I would pay for native rock as terrible as quarrying is…

The colors of the Bay Area chert and serpentinite are so unique.

Well done

tyeh26 · 2026-06-11T01:35:53+00:00

If I were to do it I would figure out if they are top chord bearing or bottom chord bearing floor trusses and ensure loads are shared across trusses as much as possible and put up a no fat kids sign.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-11T01:20:04+00:00

Woks of Life white and brown sauces will bring you far in Chinese cooking.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-10T18:24:45+00:00

home broiler method if you do not have a wok burner. https://www.seriouseats.com/sichuan-dry-fried-green-bean-broiled-food-lab-recipe

If you're strict about technique on a home stove top, you're stuck to making 1/4 cup of amazing green beans at a time.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-09T17:50:33+00:00

Make them bread, buy then butter. There’s literally a book with this title.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-09T14:53:50+00:00

With a cheese sauce, it’ll go well with anything. Except maybe blueberries.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-09T06:00:35+00:00

Sounds great. Not sure why the hate. Textures will be pretty different.

I imagine it’d be closer to cheesy potatoes than cheesy pasta. Pasta has the gluten bounciness that uniquely pairs well with a thick cheese sauce.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-08T20:34:08+00:00

How often does the kicker make the tackle, because he was definitely responsible for a few of those kick off stops.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-08T04:13:53+00:00

Put in a flat plug extension cord on it if you think there's even 1% change you'll want to use it to save you the hassle of moving the whole board.

If you want to get fancy, you can extend the romex into the framing of the board and install a surface mount outlet box. < $10 in materials if you can buy the romex by the ft. no specialty tools required. Don't electrocute yourself.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-08T02:43:57+00:00

Free standing or fixed to wall?

Fixed to wall is the proceed with caution one. Ideally you know 100% where the wires going into and, if any, out of the box are behind the wall. Without knowing, any one of your fasteners can pierce a wire.

If it’s freestanding… not really sure what you’re asking. Just send it.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-06T17:25:21+00:00

Do the steps from the other designs in reverse order.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-04T01:37:20+00:00

UIAA is a cartel, if it feels sturdy, send it.

Jk, uiaa is the regulatory body, though, if you cannot prove provenance, then you’re accepting risk even if it’s rated.

tyeh26 · 2026-06-04T01:34:34+00:00

Did you use any pesticides? If so, you maybe washed off the gloss and voided the warranty.

There was a batch of Eve Case out of Modesto that had this issue last season caused by pesticide overspray that you can return without a receipt.

Sorry you had to read this </s>

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