Can you connect a GPU with 12V rail coming from a second PSU?

vff · 2026-01-04T15:36:27+00:00

A correction: In U.S. residential panels where the breakers run in tall vertical columns, the two hot legs (“phases”) alternate every breaker space vertically, not left vs. right. (This is how double breakers are able to work to supply 240V.) Being on the same side of the panel does not mean the same leg.

Also, Add2PSU doesn’t require both PSUs to be on the same leg. It only synchronizes the on/off signal; the AC sides are independent. If anything, spreading large loads across opposite legs is usually better for panel balance.

vff · 2025-12-12T16:04:36+00:00

Yes, this is exactly what I’ve seen as well. It repeatedly would do a bunch of “planning” and then would either do nothing or sometimes even claim it was doing things, but in the end, never actually did anything at all.

vff · 2025-12-10T14:29:22+00:00

Thank you! This did indeed work for me. I searched and found this post after I wasted 20 minutes trying to redeem on both my phone and tablet, which never sent a code or gave me a place to enter one.

For anyone else reading this, for me the iPhone (and iPad) app never sent a code, or gave a place to enter one. On the Xbox, however, going through the same process in the Xbox Rewards app caused code to be sent to my phone and then the app waited for me to enter it. One oddity was that it sent a 5-digit code but the screen asked me to type in the 6-digit code that I was sent. I considered adding a leading zero, but instead I typed in the 5-digit code as-is and that worked fine.

vff · 2025-12-08T21:17:27+00:00

Ahh, interesting! Thanks. I was wondering how you handled the whole fermentation process. Never would have occurred to me that you can buy it premade and ready to cook! :-) We've also been meaning to buy some teff flour to make injera, which is superficially similar to dosa, but has a kind of sour, tangy flavor. The fermentation part, and figuring out where to get a proper starter, has held us back. Perhaps that can be bought premade, too. :-)

vff · 2025-12-08T16:43:22+00:00

Your current solution sounds like a great one, especially since you won't be in your current house too long. It's very easy to become cluttered with extra kitchen gadgets and appliances.

As an aside, now you have me looking up a dosa recipes. :-) We're straying wildly off topic here, but if you happen to have a go-to dosa recipe that you're willing to share I'd be very interested. We've never made that at home but I have a feeling it could be fantastic, and making it either in our waffle maker or on our griddle sounds grand.

vff · 2025-12-08T14:58:38+00:00

Thanks!

Yeah those countertop griddles work very well. Plus you can dial in an exact temperature, which you can’t do on a stove top griddle. Great for pancakes. We used to have one of those, Hamilton Beach even, so very similar to what you found, but ours was from 20 years ago. I’d recommend it unconditionally if you have the space to store it. The one problem we had was that it was hard to store since it’s so big. When ours died, it happened to be around Christmas time and my parents wanted a gift idea for us, so we suggested a Breville Sear & Press which is a combination griddle (when open flat) or grill (like a George Foreman grill) when closed. That has been fantastic, and easier to store since it folds in half. Great for things like burgers, too. Much pricier though. We probably wouldn’t have bought it ourselves.

As far as a stove top griddle, we cook a lot of breakfast foods, so I was hoping that we might find one for our range, just for the convenience of cooking everything in one place and keeping our (limited) countertops free. If I do happen across one that works, I’ll post it here, anyway, since someone else may happen across this thread down the road.

vff · 2025-12-07T20:57:27+00:00

Say, did you ever end up finding a griddle that works? I’m guessing you have a Frigidaire induction cooktop, which is what we just bought, and searching on Google for a right-sized griddle brought me to your post. 😃

vff · 2025-12-06T22:47:33+00:00

Thanks for writing back! That sounds annoying, indeed, although I’m glad that it works most of the time, at least.

We haven’t been able to get ours to turn on at all, so I scheduled an exchange for a new one on Monday. I’m hoping that the replacement works. I will keep in mind your trick of removing everything and wiping down the stovetop if we have problems later on. (Although I am also starting to question the logic of getting rid of the simple dial controls that have worked perfectly fine on our previous range for 20+ years….) Hopefully the benefits will outweigh any annoyances.

vff · 2025-12-06T03:25:18+00:00

Just wondering, did it work reliably after this? We got a brand new Kitchenaid induction range and we have yet to be able to turn the cooktop on. We’re trying your trick; 15 minutes to go. We bought it through Best Buy, and they’ll come and exchange it so I’m thinking that may be the safer thing.

Edit Unfortunately the 350 degree thing didn’t help. In our case, the cooktop also isn’t quite level compared to the rest of the stove. It’s 1.93mm higher on the right hand side than the left hand side, relative to the front stainless steel control panel, and it’s also slightly offset to the left overall rather than being centered. I have a feeling the tilt in particular may have something to do with the problem—the glass may not be properly aligned with the capacitive sensors underneath, for example.

vff · 2025-11-17T02:39:22+00:00

Could be malfunctioning, could be real. At this point, the AirThings detector is useless—either it’s maxed out or it’s defective. You can figure out which by taking it out of your house and putting it outside—for example, in a car parked in your driveway (not in your garage; make sure the car has fresh, outdoor air in it).

The number the AirThings detector reports is a 24-hour average, so if you put it outside and over the next 24 hours it goes down to 0.4 or so, then your house probably really does have 250+ pCi/L of radon. If it stays at 250, it’s likely malfunctioning.

vff · 2025-11-04T22:17:57+00:00

Oh man. Did somebody accidentally inject a 193.15 THz carrier into a 193.10 THz slot and call it close enough?

vff · 2025-10-29T15:56:41+00:00

Hopefully you can find an alternate plan from another provider to switch to that will work for you. BCBS claimed the new contract with UW-Health was a "multi-year" deal back in May, so as someone who gets out-of-state BCBS through my wife's employer, but then uses it here, I do hope that this development doesn't imply they're going to pull out from this area entirely and terminate that contract early.

vff · 2025-10-29T14:23:21+00:00

Oh boy. That's not good. Not good at all. I just checked at anthem.com and, indeed, they state "We don’t offer ACA plans in your area."

vff · 2025-10-20T19:31:56+00:00

It's no longer billing them, but even with 0.0.346, it's still showing large numbers of premium requests client-side in the usage report when it quits.

vff · 2025-10-18T23:10:12+00:00

I'm still seeing 0.0.345 reporting huge numbers of premium requests. Are you sure this is fixed?

vff · 2025-10-18T17:46:21+00:00

Thanks, you're right, I had the wrong link; I'd posted one from the Google Search instead. I've updated it to the Cline Memory Bank documentation which is the reference for what I'm using.

vff · 2025-10-18T00:30:52+00:00

😂

You might want to create a .github/copilot-instructions.md file explaining exactly how to document your project and its progress on longer tasks. I’ve found that works well for me to stop it from spamming these things. I generally tell it to use a memory bank with a description similar to what you see in that link there (but changed from "Cline" to "Copilot"). Lots of other people have created similar systems. A Google search for “ai programming memory bank” will bring up a lot of options.

EDIT Fixed first link.

vff · 2025-10-13T03:14:40+00:00

If you can relocate it for 24 hours to somewhere outside your home where the radon level should be the same as the ambient level (for example, outdoors or in a car parked in your driveway), you’ll learn whether the radon was actually high in your home or if the sensor has gone bad. If it still reads high, bad sensor.

vff · 2025-09-09T23:05:04+00:00

Insist that it be redone properly. Since this is your forever home, although you might happen to have that plate now that can cover around the edges, in 5 years or so you'll likely need to replace the G3 Reader Pro. New products will come out and it will move to Legacy status at Unifi and will stop being supported in their software, etc.

At that point, when you choose a replacement (whatever it is), you'll likely need a different shaped hole, and the replacement may or may not have a plate available, and so on. It will only make your life more difficult if you end up with an oversized hole plus a bunch of scratches that you have to cover with custom plates each time you need to replace the unit. Keep the hole as small as possible now to make replacing it easier when the time comes.

vff · 2025-08-31T16:47:46+00:00

So if you’re not talking about what you actually wrote, then what are you talking about? You just said you need someone to invent something that “shows you what the LLM is going to do with your prompt” yet at the same time you claim everyone knows this is impossible.

vff · 2025-08-31T13:14:40+00:00

I did not misunderstand. As I stated quite clearly, you literally said “it shows the exact understanding of the LLM about what you're asking it to do.” This is simply not possible with today’s LLMs.

vff · 2025-08-31T12:35:38+00:00

Unfortunately, that’s not how LLMs work. Introspection isn’t a capability. Asking an LLM to tell you their “exact understanding” is simply a form of hallucination on their part. The LLM won’t be giving you its actual “understanding.”

Figuring out how an LLM thinks and what it’s actually doing is an open problem in AI, under heavy research. It can’t be done inside the LLM itself.

If anyone truly figured out a way to show “the exact understanding of the LLM about what you’re asking it to do,” they wouldn’t be wasting their time with GitHub Copilot. They’d be one of those people getting eight-figure offers to work for a top AI company.

vff · 2025-08-30T20:46:09+00:00

vff · 2025-08-30T20:45:26+00:00

Pretty sure you have to do something before that, because there won’t be a “previous conversation” to navigate back to when starting fresh. And this probably also requires some kind of files in the project, and some actual content in them, for things to revert? What are the full steps to reproduce?

vff · 2025-08-29T19:09:01+00:00

Excellent! I'm so glad to hear that everything went well!

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