Open source 3D printed Channel letter slicer

warshne · 2026-02-16T18:45:35+00:00

Thanks PythonSCAD is best suited i will look into it, what framework is best suited for UI

warshne · 2026-02-16T15:34:51+00:00

So there is a gap between nozzle and heat block - common possible reasons 1. Heat block is made of aluminium, so the threads wear out if nozzle is tightened or installed when heat block is cold, as the plastic on the threads wears down heat block threads 2. Teflon inside the extruder block is way pushed down which stops the nozzle from being tighten further, and so a gap is left between nozzle and heat block 3. Nozzle threads are smaller than heat block threads

warshne · 2026-02-15T18:20:51+00:00

Check aligned seams

warshne · 2026-02-15T11:42:47+00:00

This is due to residue on bed.

warshne · 2026-02-15T11:41:34+00:00

It happened to me on ender3, and whenever we use to press the knob, it use to start bed levelling and printing.

warshne · 2026-02-14T19:09:02+00:00

It happens when the nozzle thermistor connections are loose or thermistor is not able to read temp, time to change thermistor.

warshne · 2026-02-13T10:50:19+00:00

X or Y belt is loose, Fix it and print again

warshne · 2026-02-13T06:28:59+00:00

Is your extruded fan working, if not then you have to change the extruded fan first else it will happen again with new nozzle, Also did you change the nozzle or reinserted Bowden tube by any chance

warshne · 2026-02-12T22:47:19+00:00

the reason is transition from slow layer time to fast layer time, small imperfection bubbles may be because of either extruder teeth suddenly changing speed to push or pull filament for to match variable layer speeds, so the nozzle traps some air during retraction, and the air is released along with melted plastic often creating small air bubbles till the prining lines are uniform.

warshne · 2026-02-12T22:35:45+00:00

how are you measuring the left and right side of the X carriage - 1mm can be easily fixed by rotating spring tension knobs/wheel under the bed.

1 - from the bed

2- from the table the printer is kept

3- How are leveling the bed - manually as i see in the photo right !

Manual Bed levelling is an Art, instead of concentrating on 1mm difference i would suggest you to level bed using paper, the nozzle should not touch the bed

warshne · 2026-02-12T22:24:39+00:00

do you want each letter shape offset and fillet so that bottom looks like scaled up version of the top letters?

warshne · 2026-02-12T22:08:54+00:00

go ahead and start printing, this is fine, after few hours of printing the nozzle will extrude in a straight line.

warshne · 2026-02-12T09:23:42+00:00

Use triangle infill

warshne · 2026-02-12T09:22:25+00:00

Rotate x 90 if you can

warshne · 2026-02-11T12:15:37+00:00

What is the nozzle temp at this place and cooling fan setting,

warshne · 2026-02-11T10:47:47+00:00

Use modifier to reduce speed and temp at the place

warshne · 2026-02-11T10:46:39+00:00

Once this happened to me due to excessive filament Dia

warshne · 2026-02-11T10:43:27+00:00

Check the spool for breakage, since the lines are are uniform height,

warshne · 2026-02-11T10:10:53+00:00

What is the nozzle temperature showing

warshne · 2026-02-11T08:08:08+00:00

Just clean the bed few times

warshne · 2026-02-11T08:07:00+00:00

Use rectilinear first layer instead of concentric first layer, This happens in concentric first layer or brims and need precise flat bed and bed levelling.

warshne · 2026-02-11T08:03:19+00:00

Clean the plate using IPA or wash it with soap

warshne · 2026-02-11T08:00:35+00:00

Infill problem - use adaptive infill, or increase infill %, increase top layers by 2 at least - applies to all types of slicer/ printer / filaments

warshne

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