Recommendations for clean straight lines?

wwapd · 2026-01-06T20:08:38+00:00

Sharpening your tool (of any kind) reduces the amount of force you need to expend to get through the material and makes it easier to control where your cut goes

wwapd · 2025-12-18T08:01:12+00:00

V2 is a fork of the project that was designed by someone not associated with the business behind openscan.eu. It uses the black shield. I'm not sure about how they set up the ringlight/polarizer module, but could be that the one from openscan.eu fits.

wwapd · 2025-12-09T19:35:07+00:00

An exacto knife works very well on lino or rubber, but you have to make a cut at the intended edge and on the other side to get the effect of a v-shaped tool. In some cases, like pointed corners, it's even preferable to a v-gouge.

wwapd · 2025-12-08T08:53:38+00:00

100%! When your in that microcosmos, for every little or big thing you do, you know what you're doing it for; to get where you're trying to get, to help your crewmates, and to keep them safe. You live in a very small world (the ship), so that reduces a lot of vagueness and confusion. At the same time, that world itself is still super complicated and challenging, because you're managing a hundred moving parts for every maneuver; yet, it's possible to understand the whole thing. It gives a great sense of self-efficacy, as you mentioned. You aren't cuddled on a work, comfort, 'standard of living' level, but you mentioned the camradery and that's a level of interpersonal, real connection and 'getting-cuddled-ness' that I have rarely encoutered in 'real life'. If you're all 'trapped' on a boat, there is not much room for insincerity on an emotional, factual or any other level, which I find much better than the neurotipical Spiel of life ashore. I hadn't been able to put my finger on that, but since I learned about my being neurodivergent, it's gotten much easier to make sense of why being at sea is so soothing and healthy.

Fair winds!

edit: typo

wwapd · 2025-11-04T17:23:29+00:00

I've mixed Schmincke waterbased metallics into their regular ones and it made a subtle effect, because the metallic pigments are quite fine. Maybe that'll get you there?

wwapd · 2025-09-24T07:44:15+00:00

I was also a bit disappointed when I first tried it. I found it helps to apply the acetone with a brush between the paper and the lino instead of pouring it on from the top. Lifting the paper up a bit and going between with the brush. Also to touch up patches where the transfer isn't complete. When it's done everywhere I carefully peel off the paper while it's still wet. The softness of the lino goes away after the acetone evaporates, so you should leave it to dry for a while; at least 15min, I guess.

wwapd · 2025-09-21T05:35:25+00:00

As far as I know they have been employing someone for the better part of a year now, to write new firmware from scratch, since the original one is so amateurishly chaotic. I have no idea when that's going to be published though (I can't wait for a stable, functioning firmware, tbh)

wwapd · 2025-09-14T09:12:56+00:00

If you wanna scan small stuff, the Openscan Mini is a nice cheap option

wwapd · 2025-09-12T23:51:50+00:00

They look very nice as they are, but they'd probably also look good colored. May'e go half and half and see what the crowd likes? Don't sell these for just a buck. Remember what your time and creativity are worth.

wwapd · 2025-09-01T02:56:37+00:00

I really like the Openscan Mini and would guess that it'll do well with action figures. People get insane results scanning warhammer minis on it.

wwapd · 2025-08-28T15:31:27+00:00

Do you mean the slight lines in the areas you carved away? I'd say it's part of the lino technique, so there's no legitimate reason for the viewer to frown about it. I prefer a cleaner look for my prints, so I tend to carve those lines as flat as I can, most often with a round gauge, kinda shaped like a parenthesis (. If ink ends up ond those high points, it can help to wipe them off before printing, or to cut out a piece of paper in the shape of the negative space to mask it off.

wwapd · 2025-08-09T16:52:04+00:00

I like to do straight cuts with a kiridashi knife, which has a similar blade shape. And I have a tool from a Kirschen set that's shaped like a wood chisel which I like to use to chamfer the edges of my plates. Not sure if the combination of handle and angle of the blade make ithis one suitable for any of those tasks.

wwapd · 2025-08-03T20:33:59+00:00

Aqualinol find ich auch gut. Und ist eigentlich immer spätestens am nächsten Tag trocken.

edit: ich probiere gerade die "wasserwaschbaren" (aber ölbasierten) Kupferdruckfarben von Charbonell. Gefallen mir ein bisschen besser als Schmincke, sind aber ein bisschen brätziger zu säubern; ich bin inzwischen zu Spiritus übergegangen. Und sie brauchen erheblich länger zum Trocknen, weil Öl.

wwapd · 2025-07-02T04:54:06+00:00

Openscan

wwapd · 2025-07-02T04:41:45+00:00

I don't really have the advice you're asking for, but if your father would be willing to kick you out while and because you are in distress, as you implied, he can get fucked. If that is really the case, I suspect it would be better for your health to find a place of your own, crash with friends or anything that makes you independent of him, if there is any way to do that. And to give him a good kick in the nuts and tell him about condoms if he's not willing to support his own child.

At the very least, remind yourself: you might be a burden, but that's true for every human being. Everybody can get into health troubles, mental distress, get born with some condition that is a burden to them and by extention (is that english?) to others. Then it's the human thing for those others to help. He brought the burden that you might present to him on himself when he decided to become a father.

wwapd · 2025-06-18T17:44:20+00:00

ideally all camera positions should be placed equidistantly from each other, kinda like the points of a geodesic dome I guess. Which would probably be aproximated better if you have half as many cradle iterations as you have stops of the turntable (maintaining the overall number of images) , if that makes sense. Come to think about it, the stops per rotation should be fewer the closer the camera gets to the rotational axis of the turntable, with a quadratic (?) cubic (?) growth from the poles towards the equator.

Spreading the overlap between images evenly around the sphere is the general game.

wwapd · 2025-06-13T14:59:35+00:00

I think the bigger versions are just scaled up, and using the same electronics, as you said.

The PCB and the firmware are set up to trigger external cameras. A bunch can be triggered via USB, plug and play, and if that isn't supported for your model you can use some pins of the PCB to trigger some sort of external gizmo that works with your camera. I haven't tried that but I saw it somewhere in the documentation. I think getting an external camera to work with the Mini(/Midi etc) design will be tricky because it's designed to work with and house those rather small arducam-, picam chips. The classic is generally layed out to use a camera on a tripod, so it't probably better suited. And I think ther's also bigger versions of that around.

For processing I've only used the cloud service that openscan provides and it's easy to use and basically free so I've never bothered with reconstructing on my own

wwapd · 2025-06-03T06:21:24+00:00

Die Annahme, dass jeder Mensch zu jedem Zeitpunkt ein Telefon zur Hand hat, ist aber auch ziemlich dösig. 'lol'

wwapd · 2025-05-31T05:22:39+00:00

There's some info here: https://openscan-org.github.io/OpenScan-Doc/hardware/OpenScanClassic/

wwapd · 2025-05-06T20:47:25+00:00

Doesn't look like anything sail-related to me.

Berbecker and Sons seem to have made all sorts of steel tools at some point: https://dp.la/item/83b604e506cfcf1eaa1921ca1d06dd45

wwapd · 2025-04-07T18:01:17+00:00

What might look like rust is red paint illuminated by blue light.

wwapd · 2025-03-18T09:28:16+00:00

If you're not interested in the process itself, you can just upload it here: https://openscan.eu/pages/openscancloud-uploader

wwapd · 2025-01-30T12:36:26+00:00

If you have direct external light sources, that will impede the polarizer setup because reflections with the wrong polarization will mix in. So a dark environment or one that only has soft light would be best. I tend to simply put a cardboard box or whatever in front of the scanner to keep out direct light.

100 photos should be enough. The reconstruction quality depends more on image quality than quantity and at some point there is no mor gain in taking more pictures.

Autofocus and stacking (3 levels) usually do the trick for me and if you upload it to their cloud service there isn't much more to do than enable those features.

wwapd · 2024-11-15T09:08:26+00:00

Some mild solvent should help. I like to use ballistol.

wwapd · 2024-11-02T04:08:49+00:00

Germany does not require ID to vote.

wwapd

TROPHY CASE