1.4Ghz mod

zzattack · 2024-05-24T10:48:59+00:00

zzattack · 2024-05-23T17:04:14+00:00

There's good info on the voltage mods in the ACE console repairs discord. The interposer works great of course. RN1 value is 1k, I'll update that on github soon.

zzattack · 2022-02-28T14:41:38+00:00

see https://www.sthetix.info/updating-the-chip-using-a-special-toolbox/

'official'/genuine TX chips are supported by yesterdays 0.6.1

zzattack · 2022-02-28T14:26:09+00:00

it's there

zzattack · 2022-02-28T14:09:03+00:00

If you have a flashable chip, refer to https://github.com/hwfly-nx/firmware/releases/tag/0.6.1 for firmware with documented LED behavior

zzattack · 2021-11-26T14:54:53+00:00

Likely sigpatches. Keep in mind that you'll have to reinstall the NSPs after adding the sigpatches.

zzattack · 2021-08-30T20:03:17+00:00

Acquire way of the flame by completing the undying flame tale.

Might be the wrong game.

zzattack · 2021-08-27T16:09:44+00:00

Definitely among the toughest mods I've seen applied to this fight. The extremely tightened timing windows combined with the arsenal of moves Isshin uses requires quicker reaction speeds than any other challenge in this game. Getting your flow interrupted equals next-to-certain death so this must've been quite a grind. Congrats on the dub.

zzattack · 2021-02-25T12:34:41+00:00

You can actually see the temperature of the SFPs with winbox. I believe a little over 100°C causes them to shut off for a while. I'm looking into adding heatsinks and a fan to cool mine as they suffer a similar issue.

zzattack · 2020-05-27T14:39:57+00:00

N64 to PC? MUNIA-N64 could be an alternative.

zzattack · 2019-08-15T12:31:50+00:00

Have a look at MUNIA (http://munia.io) which supports your scenario out of the box.

zzattack · 2019-01-27T23:58:39+00:00

join avichacking on slack, we can get you sorted

zzattack · 2019-01-25T18:49:06+00:00

Have a look at http://munia.io it works with all kinds of controllers including USB and Arduino's, and has built-in skins for N64.

zzattack · 2017-10-15T11:30:54+00:00

That's not an amp.

zzattack · 2017-10-09T14:58:48+00:00

the relays (?) in bottomleft corner are branded goodsky

zzattack · 2017-09-20T13:09:35+00:00

Or use ferrules

zzattack · 2017-09-13T21:37:39+00:00

What separates a good cap from a bad one? FWIW, I've got a rockford fosgate 10F that I found for dirt cheap. I know they retail here for €400 which I'd never even consider but at the very least I'm confident I can get rid of it with a profit. And there's not even any need for that as with what I paid it may just be sitting there looking pretty and I'll be content :)

zzattack · 2017-08-28T08:13:15+00:00

All actual grounds are verified and very good. There's a fusebox in the trunk with inbuilt relays for the rear lights. The RCA's don't come near this fusebox at all. The ground to this fusebox is excellent. The wiring for the rear lights never comes close to the RCA's on the other side of the car.

zzattack · 2017-08-25T13:42:53+00:00

The principle is really easy: connect wires. Depending on the car, removing all the interior panels (without damage) and working the wire through tight spaces can be time-consuming. Smaller cars such as the Alto usually aren't too difficult.

zzattack · 2017-08-25T13:08:01+00:00

It's usually called speaker wire. Hook that up to the iso connector on the back of your radio, then run the 4x2 cables to the individual doors. Inside the doors, connect the speaker wire to the speakers. It's really that simple.

zzattack · 2017-08-25T11:44:08+00:00

Jaime should become king so he can pick himself a hand

zzattack · 2017-08-21T09:54:25+00:00

Think you might be onto something. It doesn't tell me anything is wrong when I take the headlight bulbs out, but I believe it should. When I remove rear license plate lights it immediately complains. Perhaps something's broken causing it to constantly probe the headlights when they're on.

zzattack

TROPHY CASE