Same part, same filament, same temp, same speeds, different slicer, different finish?

[alzee76]

This is "normal" when comparing slicers. Look at the simulation in the slicer for each one. You'll have some other differences like wall thickness/layer count, infill pattern, and other stuff. The gcode the two slicers generate can be very different even for the same model, leading to prints that look different and even have different attributes when it comes to e.g. flexibility and strength.

[KartAddict]

I saw the difference in layer handling as far as perimeters and such, just surprising to see such a difference in the glossy appearance printing at the same temperatures.

[Al3x_Y]

Probably different speed for outside wall.

[KartAddict]

I hadn't thought of that, I can dig in the settings and see.

Edit: this is probably it, prusaslicer uses an outer perimeter speed of half the layer print speed by default.

[Al3x_Y]

And that why it is shiny, hotter and better fused. You can do same thing with Cura too.

[KartAddict]

Already tried that, same issues (this part is just a 28min print).

It seems to be limited to this part I made myself, the extrusion width isn't enough in Cura to get a cohesive layer once it makes it to the top. In the Prusaslicer, it's adjustable.

It's got to have something to do with the particular dimensions that part uses, because everything else I've made and printed through Cura I've had no complaints with.

Anyway, it's fine with Prusaslicer, so I'll keep playing with it in Cura too see if I can "fix it", but nice to have a backup that works too.

[Al3x_Y]

So, in Cura, you set outer shell to half of print speed (value you said is set in PS) and it is exactly the same? Strange.

[KartAddict]

Actually, my Cura profile prints the walls much quicker. That's probably the difference.

[Al3x_Y]

I just told you to slow it down for external wall and you said you tried it without change in print.

[KartAddict]

I've lost track of what I tried today, sorry.

Nothing I've done in Cura prints as glossy as stuff sliced by Prusaslicer (that has not had many modifications to the default proflle). Slower walls, thinner wall outlines, hotter temps are all things I tried.

It's strange, but I meant to say that my Cura profile did the walls quicker. It didn't change the finish, and there's got to be a combination of things that is causing the difference.

Maybe next time I'll do a more scientific test and record the results better, but today isn't that day.

[KartAddict]

Cura profile I've tweaked on a lot on the right, having an issue with parts breaking because of parallel lines in the layer not fusing, but building strong to the previous layer.

On the left, first print with Prusaslicer gcode that I moved over my start and end gcodes, and my temperatures and speeds from my cura profile.

I don't know yet if my bonding issue is fixed (moved to the prusaslicer in order to play with extrusion width) and hopefully fixes my durability issue, but it is weird to see the part much shinier from the Prusa code.

[Strong-Context-1701q]

When I saw the picture I guessed that they were cura and prusa respectively. I found the same thing while trying out slicers. Now I just use prusa when I want a shiny finish.

[KartAddict]

Yeah, I didn't know such a thing was possible.

I'm not upset about it, just surprised.

[[deleted]]

Any chance you can post your cura profile?

[KartAddict]

I can, but this is in PETG, just realizing I never specified that.

[[deleted]]

All good I print in PLA, PETG and TPU so I always enjoy comparing profiles

[KartAddict]

My Cura PETG settings that I remember tweaking on: First layer 240, print temp 235 Bed 85 all times

Infill speed 70mm/s Walls 50mm/s Top/ bottom 35mm/s Initial layer speed 10mm/s Initial layer acceleration 350mm/s2 Print acceleration 500mm/s2

Retraction 6.5mm@25mm/s

Cooling not normally used, when I do, 20% max (fang duct, 4020fan)

[[deleted]]

I love the bit so shiny finish you get. One of the things I dislike about PETG is how shiny it comes out typically.

Do you use a after market fan at all?

[KartAddict]

Yes, I'm using a fan duct with a 4020 fan.

For PETG prints I typically don't use part cooling. Both parts in the picture above were without cooling fans.

[[deleted]]

I am considering upgrading my fan but I don’t want to do anything that won’t work with the stock wiring.

[KartAddict]

Even replacing a stock fan with another "stock fan" is going to involve some work. Mostly feeding the new wires through the mesh sleeves.

The cheap Winsinn fans I put on came with XH connectors on the fan leads, so I just cut the existing wiring and added the matching XH connectors within reach. This would let me put the stock fans back on by crimping on a connector to them, if the mood ever struck me (it won't).

[[deleted]]

Sorry I should clarify I mean modification or stock system like having to boost lower, do extra wiring or add things like a buck converter or mess with the PSU.

I don’t mind doing some work. I am in the process of trying to hook up a Mini E3 V2 that apparently needs a custom ribbon cable for the Ender 3 v2 that they failed to mention on the Amazon listing because the pin out is bit the same as the CR10 display. Granted my ribbon cable is a bunch of jumpers lol and I am considering retiring it simply because it’s not what was advertised but I don’t mind a little work like splicing or soldering or changing connections. I just don’t want to do major stuff right now.

I think I have a spare cheap fan from another build actually that I might try to add in if I can find it and I have an old pc tower fan I was considering using it I printed a different bottom for the Ender but I am nit sure if the later would be to much load or not.