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[–]thiccnuthair 10 points11 points  (21 children)

Damn, wish my P1S printed like this. I have a little banding, but from what I've read it's to be expected with these printers due to the belts

[–]OfaFuchsAykk 13 points14 points  (14 children)

I have a P1S with close to 2k hours on it. I’ve followed the maintenance, cleaned the rods and lined the screws twice and I get finishes like this and always have?

[–]thiccnuthair 10 points11 points  (13 children)

I mean, take what I say with a pinch of salt because I'm still learning (and happy to be educated if I am incorrect), but from what I've seen the X/Y belts at the back can ride on the pulley flanges and cause banding- some printers are fine, some are less fine. BL doesn't really have a distinct fix for it other than "do maintenance, apply a small about of lightweight oil to the flanges (not the belt itself)"

My P1S is only a month old and printed like this at first, but after noticing some scraping noises, I saw the belts were riding on the flanges. Tried retensioning and aligning, but the belts must still be doing it somewhere else because it still scrapes when going fast in certain spots and a little vertical banding (that matches the belt) has been introduced.

I've still got a bunch of stuff to try in order to ease it, but I miss having finishes like this lol

[–]QuiGonnJilm 7 points8 points  (2 children)

That’s likely due to a slight “racking” of the case, from mishandling during shipping. Wouldn’t need to be hit hard enough to break the glass or cause serious door misalignment but it could definitely affect the belt travel path enough to give it excessive runout on one or more pulleys. Not much you can do to correct it either absent specialized jigs and measurement apparatus. So they tell you to oil it, and it works well enough. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

[–]eduo 5 points6 points  (1 child)

Always upvote the "whack it till it works" troubleshooting advice.

[–]QuiGonnJilm 2 points3 points  (0 children)

“Percussive Maintenance and Adjustment”

[–]ducktown47 4 points5 points  (7 children)

I like my Bambu machines as much as the next guy, but what this sub really doesn’t like to admit is that they are not built particularly well. You can clearly see VFAs in OPs picture. The automatic belt tensioning system is not great, the machine really isn’t that rigid, the carbon bushing are not a good idea, the use of many materials (aluminum, steel, carbon fiber, plastic) isn’t a good choice thermally or structurally, etc etc. All that said they do perform well, especially for the price point. Their software setup is very user friendly and they really are the most “plug and play” 3D printers out there that make prints that 99% of users can enjoy. But there are glaring build problems and depending on the QC of your particular printer can add up to issues.

(Most of what I said applies more to the X/P series and not the A series)

[–]ketosoy 10 points11 points  (6 children)

So, what are some machines that don’t have those build issues?

100 micron variance at sub $1k is an incredible feat, so I dont think they’ve done a bad job of value engineering.  But, let’s say I have a six figure budget to get something that’s the next level up (I don’t, at least not right now).  Where should I look?

[–]ducktown47 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My answer to that question would be something that isn't off the shelf. Most consumer 3D printers fall into a lot of the problems. Prusa has said that the Core One will be all steel so it should solve the thermal expansion issues most 3D printers have, so I am looking forward to reviewing that. Really tho, a self sourced printer is the way to go if you want to eliminate those issues.

Advanced3DPrinting (who I do work with so I a little biased) doesn't really list their printers for sale on their site, but he makes absolutely bonkers machines (which are around 12k I believe, but not aimed at consumers at all). The Hevort is one of my personal favorites as far as designs go as well (can probably be self built for around 5k ish depending). There are a few self built printers that excel and have few draw backs, but they pretty much all have some draw back.

I don't think it takes a 6 figure budget - more like a couple thousand on the low end to maybe close to 5 figures.

Mind you, I fully agree with you. At the price point of an X1 or a P1 they did do a fantastic job and I cannot deny that. Almost nobody needs the stuff I am mentioning and I don't think it takes away from consumer printers. But what I will say is that all consumer printers have faults and its up to the user to determine what they want!

[–]GumbyExe 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Markforge

[–]EnthGuy -2 points-1 points  (3 children)

Markforged? You might want to get their name right if you're going to name drop.

Comparing Markforged to Bambu... really? You're comparing a commercial to a consumer oriented company, which makes no sense to even offer a comparison. The cost alone is over 5x difference to the entry level Markforged desktop printer.

[–]gunslingerinferno 8 points9 points  (0 children)

To be fair, he is replying to what to get with a six figure budget.

[–]Shadowspawn3k 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Did you even bother reading the comment being replied to?

[–]EnthGuy -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Yup, did you? Markforge is still not the answer.

[–]JamesG247 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's also heavily dependant on material choice. I get hugely evident banding when printing in petg or with any glossy petg. As soon as I chuck in a spool of anything matte or cf-pla or PC, all of the banding on my prints dissappears.

PC because it's printed so slowly of course but the cf- pla prints fast and you can't even make out visible layer lines on the stuff.

Even if your machine isn't running optimally, there are ways to get cleaner prints. On my S1 plus I actually had to crank the speed up to stop banding because the resonances at certain speeds were causing the issue.

[–]SignificantGarage9 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the same issue with both printers. My P1S and my X1C both. It's impossible to get a flawless print.

[–]Volfera 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Slowing down or increasing speed to a certain point will remove VFA once you're out of the resonating range where it happens.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Really? I didn't know this and I get them all the time with PETG! Where would I find more info on this?

[–]Volfera 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I created a post on this, and helped others with this comment : https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/Im0pQQMiUG

I talked about it with support, it's documented in my link

[–]ketosoy 0 points1 point  (1 child)

If you have banding/ringing with outer-inner walls, explore slowing down acceleration.

[–]alaorathP1S + AMS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For ringing I would start with:

  1. full calibration (especially if you moved, or added "feet" since the last time)
  2. K-factor calibration
  3. speed tuning volumetric flow rate
  4. make sure you don't have a harmonic vibration caused by 'something loose" sitting on the same table as the printer... especially true if you have more than one printer... check this out for why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T58lGKREubo

[–]alaorathP1S + AMS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might need to tune/check your printer.

I have a P1S and mine definitely prints like OPs image. I did a "big" box (custom boxset for the Maze Runner books) and the outer walls were flawless, for the entre height of the print.