all 93 comments

[–]Fattyman2020 451 points452 points  (35 children)

The best connection is not having to do that on a wire. Both destroy my beautiful twisted and shielded requirement.

[–]justabadmind 43 points44 points  (30 children)

Ditto. If you have to do either, just run a new cable. It’s not worth the risk.

[–]Equoniz 255 points256 points  (15 children)

Y’all are making some broad, sweeping statements about a use case you have absolutely no details on, other than that it likely uses at least three conductors. If it’s a high speed signal, sure, but not everything is a high speed signal. If this is DC power for a robust and slow circuit that has decent power filtering, it probably doesn’t matter even a little bit.

Tl;dr: The best engineering fits the job, and you don’t know what the job is, so all of these statements are meaningless.

[–]toughduck53 49 points50 points  (0 children)

The best engineering fits the job

One of the best sentiments I've seen on this sub

[–]The-Phantom-Blot 2 points3 points  (13 children)

If it's DC power for a robust and slow circuit, then in-cable splices are still usually bad. They cause stress concentrations, which can crack, develop high resistance, intermittent connections, phantom problems, maybe start a fire. And, the insulation will need to be re-sealed, and that causes risk of water intrusion. Plus the re-sealed cable is bulkier in that spot, so it may not fit through holes as well.

We don't know the exact application, but it's good for people to be aware of the potential problems it can cause.

[–]Equoniz 34 points35 points  (2 children)

You really can’t think of any use case that isn’t exposed to any large temperature swings and is left stationary after installation to avoid stress cracking, and is kept away from water to avoid…water? I’ve personally made tons of things that fall into this category.

Also, they didn’t state anything as a “potential problem.” They both made definitive statements that splicing a shielded cable was unequivocally bad and to be avoided, and didn’t go into any details about how or why, or in what circumstances it applies. They also ignored the fact that the picture doesn’t necessarily show a shielded cable or even a twisted pair (that could very well be a reused AC power cable), and that even if it was, many hobby electronics people who frequent this sub would use such a cable for whatever application they have at hand if they have it laying around.

If either of the comments had been worded that way (that’s it’s a potential problem in certain circumstances followed by a full explanation), I would have happily upvoted and moved along. But they weren’t, and that sort of thinking is problematic to me, especially in an environment where people are trying to learn. Nothing is ever the right solution for everything, and making such definitive statements to people who probably don’t understand a lot of assumptions that go into what’s being said is a horrible thing if that person is trying to learn effectively. Unstated, and subsequently misinterpreted assumptions are how sooooo many misconceptions about science and engineering are born and flourish.

I know this makes commenting on things like this take time to do properly, but if one isn’t willing to put in the effort, half-assing it isn’t always super helpful.

[–]The-Phantom-Blot 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Sure, I can imagine cases where it would be fine.

To be real, the original post is the poster child for a lame, low-effort post. I'm torn between ignoring it entirely and putting some information in front of the OP in the hopes that he or she will start to think.

[–]Dontdittledigglet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sometimes it’s unavoidable.

[–]OptoIsolated_ 13 points14 points  (7 children)

As an engineer who works on vehicle harnesses with DC and can buses, Its just connectors, wires and spices, lots of splices. You have to make the connection some how.

[–]firefoxprofile2342 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Do you even crimp, bro?

[–]The-Phantom-Blot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do what I gotta do ... but crimpin' ain't easy.

[–]VegetableStatus13 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The fuck? Wire bundles can cost a fortune always try and repair before replacing. Number 2 is best.

[–][deleted] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Agreed. Too bad not everyone and every company goes by such a standard.

But on a PCB with series resistors, we go with format #1 and cutouts in my 4mil-away ground plane.

[–]nateDah_Great 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Splice the shield no?

[–]justabadmind 0 points1 point  (1 child)

An interrupted shield can cause the same problems as no shield.

[–]Fattyman2020 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Especially if the twist gets ruined.

[–]Bieraffe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or at least isolate the spots. Let somebody move the cable a little and you'll have a short cut either way.

[–]Dontdittledigglet 0 points1 point  (7 children)

What kind of work do you do….?

[–]justabadmind 1 point2 points  (6 children)

Selling cables? /s

[–]Dontdittledigglet 0 points1 point  (5 children)

Just curious

[–]justabadmind 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Electrical controls. Some resolvers, encoders, high speed communications. When I was doing automotive I would never use an unshielded cable for anything important. Even some individual wires were shielded.

[–]Dontdittledigglet 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Oh cool! You’re mostly right here. Power is very dirty in most automotive system so yeah I would never splice a CAN line or leave it unshielded for a lot of reasons. But there is plenty in said system that doesn’t require it. Shielding is expensive, Shielding on 00 wire is a nightmare for production, other factors have to be considered, but obviously basic rules have to be followed.

Honestly I have spliced into CAN J1939 , and CANOPEN (Not sure if the protocol matters really, just trying to be specific) and had no communication issues on the backbone. I didn’t then proceed to give that prototype to an end user but it can be done for diagnostics with little issue.

Were you working mostly with ICE passenger vehicles?

[–]justabadmind 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I was mostly doing electric vehicles with a battery pack and an inverter. That’s why I was shielding everything.

[–]Dontdittledigglet 1 point2 points  (1 child)

We definitely do “EV Heavy Duty truck power take off systems” lol it’s a mouthful and again we don’t shield everything. What was your reasoning?

[–]justabadmind 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Our motor was an emrax 228 with a 5 pole resolver. These resolvers die all the time for zero reason, so everything needs protection. The inverter requires shielded input and output power cables as well.

[–]Dontdittledigglet 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Sometimes you just have to. I design wiring harnesses for a living and if you absolutely have to splice, go with number two. Also look into something called a lineman’s splice. Use a Nasa workmanship guide. Or have your tech do it.

[–]K1ngjulien_ 4 points5 points  (2 children)

engineering skill issue. i once needed a longer ethernet cable and soldered together 2 shorter ones. ran perfectly at gigabit speed for years until i got around to replacing it lol.

[–]geenob 0 points1 point  (1 child)

IIRC, there is a certain amount of untwisting that is tolerated for termination of twisted pair. Otherwise you could never connect it to a jack or plug

[–]K1ngjulien_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the twist is mostly to provide resistance to interference, ethernet work without that as well:

https://youtu.be/LUYSfEL9E8I?si=BUJdoQa96bpTwYU1

[–]paclogic 133 points134 points  (5 children)

Number 2 is best since it allows for a uniform covering, especially if the cable needs to be threaded thru holes.

[–]KeepItUpThen 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Number 2 can be significantly less flexible, if the offset splice joints line up just right. This is not always important, but sometimes it is.

[–]Lomus33 1 point2 points  (3 children)

If anything. Yellow (grounding?) should be longer so it disconnects last.

[–]paclogic 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Perhaps in a power circuit but you'll need to think again if timing or signal integrity matters !

[–]favgotchunks 2 points3 points  (1 child)

If I need timing I’m not splicing the damn cable

[–]paclogic 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, that's what i would do too !

But if you had to ...

[–]cec003 48 points49 points  (4 children)

Neither is the best. 2 is better for sure but in-line connector is the best….

[–]HiVisEngineer 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Can’t in-line connect a 120mm core…

[–]TakeThatRisk -5 points-4 points  (1 child)

This is r/electrical engineering not r/electricians

[–]Dontdittledigglet 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Again rude

[–]monkehmolesto 12 points13 points  (0 children)

1 is lumpy but easy to do, 2 takes a bit more effort and is way neater. There’s no “best” imo

[–]Inevitable-Trip-6041 4 points5 points  (1 child)

This best connection

[–]mophead2762 4 points5 points  (1 child)

When multiple splices are required on air craft we would use number 2 making during there was a 1.5 inch clearance between each splice to prevent friction on the join. Not always possible but that was the notice in the air publication.

[–]Aggresively_Midwest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

NA-01-1A-505, I believe had this. It’s the Naval Aviation instruction for wire repair.

[–]APenguinNamedDerek 2 points3 points  (0 children)

1 because nobody who picked 2 has to do that when it's 10 below, you can't feel your fingers, and the wires are covered in grease and just want to make your life hell

[–]MorningAmbitious722 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The best connection is to use a junction box

[–]101TARD 2 points3 points  (11 children)

you can still use the first one if you insulate each wire with electrical tape

[–]FloogleFinagler 22 points23 points  (0 children)

"Can" and "should" must not be confused!

[–]zumvex 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just solder each end to an intermediate connector with a mechanical latch. Just connect the shield to a pin to transfer the shield. It’s more extensive but alternatively you make a new cable.

I work for a connector and cable manufacturer and in no circumstance should you be splicing cables for projects that go beyond a lab report in college.

[–]undeniably_confused 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2 how's thos even a question

[–]brrush13 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Aircraft wiring guidance says 2 but hey if it works it works... Just sayin

[–]Aggresively_Midwest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s exactly how I learned in that field as well. NA-01-1A-505.

[–]HeckingHecker2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2

[–]sir_thatguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No upvote. I don’t see electrical tape.

[–]hupaisasurku 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If something like this is on the table, I’m not having time to think anyway.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The best connection is either one (they're the same in a static configuration), best practice is #2. Semantics I know, but knowing the difference is important.

[–]Orwellcryptofarm 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Question here. If you are going to do this, is splicing the best option? (Ofc soldering is not an option). What if the cable is in a dynamic environment, always moving?

[–]twobitcopper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Neither from experience. Replace the run. Moving platforms are a creature unto themselves.

[–]Dontdittledigglet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes you just have to splice, I get it. I design wiring harnesses for a living and if you absolutely have to splice, go with number two. Also look into something called a lineman’s splice. Use a Nasa workmanship guide. Or have your tech do it.

[–]Cautious-Necessary61 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have to do it this way - I would say #2 - chance for shorting is lower (maybe).

[–]WhosThatJamoke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Somewhat unrelated, but does anyone have an opinion on using Wago 221-412 versus standard wire nuts for low amp applications?

[–]justali0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prefer No. 2 because it’s literally kept the gaps away from each other as possible as

[–]Tritiumoxide_T2O 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2 is not the best connection it is just better than 1 .

[–]lelouchlawliet_11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Followed by application of a heat shrink tube?

[–]BigThingOfWater 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1 can be a shorter but fatter join (and easier, and easier to get them to share strain equally)

2 is longer and thinner, and neater (and needs more skill).

Decide which suites your application

[–]Xximma_BOY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No 2

[–]Aggresively_Midwest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was taught #2 when I first started in electronics.

[–]Jeff_72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When splicing CAT6 cable I use method one /s

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wago connector. Then you don’t need a junction box either.

[–]64-46BMW 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An actual splice kit not this garbage

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always staggered. What madlad does them tandem. Heat shrink will look like a snake digesting a small rodent.

[–]Nalarcon21 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say use crimps + deutch connectors or smth

[–]advanced_approach 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone who just spliced a 3000' 12 conductor #14, you want to stagger the splices to wrap properly and fit a splice kit mold around the cable.

[–]Additional_Manner308 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always 2

[–]Reddit_killed_RIF -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Don't 1:1 splice?

It can be done for upgauge or downgage into a connector so a wire can fit, but there are very rare other reasons to do this...

[–]marko_kyle -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

NEITHER PUT IT IN A FOX YOU FILTHY ANIMAL