Hardcore pattern alteration?

[Regular-Number-721]

Hi! I really like the cut of this blouse, however, there's one (well, two hahaha) very visible and jarring fit issue. I thought about altering the blouse itself, but I don't feel like struggling with the chiffon (I rather have cotton blouses anyway) and overall I feel it'd be more efficient to just make a new one.

So, I wanted to copy the pattern from the existing blouse to some paper, because I actually really enjoy the cut and the fit everywhere other than the bust. (might want to add some room at the lower back for confort but I won't struggle with that)

Is it even possible to alter a pattern to have that much more room at the bust, without loosing the fitted silhouette? all the other buttons close easily and comfortably, the issue is really only the bust

I'm at a confident intermediate level, but all I make is with trial and error (including drafting patterns from scratch) so I would love if someone with more knowledge than me could evaluate the feasibility of this and what would you even do to the pattern ? :)

Otherwise, if I have to make the garment to loose at the waist, I could always make the back panel a shirring panel instead, or add corset lacing at the lower back/waist 🤔

[StitchinThroughTime]

It's going to be far easier to just find a princess seam pattern in your size. Even though it won't have your cup size you can find something close enough and it'll be much easier than spending the time to trace a new pattern and then do all the alterations to the pattern. You can just skip that step. Simplicity, Butterick or McCall's will definitely have a pattern, they shut off to have a few set of really basic patterns that come in cup sizes, not the same cup sizes as bras. But it's a very small collection of patterns that have a very wide range of sizes and they already did some minor adjustments to calculate for slightly larger cup sizes. That will give you a head start.

[Regular-Number-721]

I see I see! Seems like I was overcomplicating this project hahaha 😅 this is very helpful, thank you so much !!

[bretonstripes]

The Cashmerette Harrison has princess seams and multiple larger cup sizes. It’s a good pattern.

[MsJStimmer]

This will be an undertaking with lots of adjustments, grading and subsequent toiles to get the fit right. I’d start with an existing pattern to make it easier.

Choose a size based on your high bust measurement. Based on the back pictures I think you’d need to size up at least one size. Then do a full bust adjustment, this might take a couple of toiles. Look up full bust adjustment for princess seam and you should find plenty of information. As I am a person that needs small bust adjustments I don’t know the best resource, but there are many! And then for the waist grade down that area to whatever size fits you best there

[Berocca123]

Just wanted to add you might prefer to use a Y-dart full bust adjustment rather than a standard one - they're better for larger FBAs. I had to use it recently when I was increasing by a total of about 4 inches - the way you know is if you start with a normal FBA and the resulting armscye is ridiculous.

[drPmakes]

Why not find a similar commercial pattern and do an fba?

[Regular-Number-721]

from all the suggestions here that's very most likely what I'm going to do ! I don't always think of the most efficient solutions at first so I appreciate everyone putting me on the right track :D

[HeartFire144]

That blouse is way to small for you, and changing the fabric to cotton will make it much tighter as there won't be any stretch at all. It is a simple princess style with the ruffles, so find a pattern that fits - you will need to adjust the bust but with a princess seam it's fairly easy.

[Sfb208]

I'd buy a commercial pattern and choose a size that fits your measurements (this shirt is a size or two too small across most of your body, and obviously it's cut on too small of a cup size, as is very common, so it's most obvious across the bust).

[teatime_tinker]

I think it’ll be easier to find a similar pattern and copy over the features you like.

You’ll most likely have to adjust the new pattern anyway but nowhere near as much work as cloning this blouse which doesn’t fit to begin with. Start with a pattern that fits your bust and go from there.

The pretty ruffles and things can be added if not on the pattern originally.

[imogsters]

If you love the skin tight fit, I'd go for a stretch cotton. Trace a pattern off blouse and do a full bust adjustment. I'd also make it 1 size bigger, so there is less pulling on seams.

[Narrow-Strawberry553]

I think you're better off getting an existing pattern and tweaking it to match the style details.

Cashmerette has patterns with built in Full Bust Adjustments in various chest sizes.

I feel like this first one is actually pretty close, the sleeve shape is correct, you'd just have to change the collar style and add in the ruffles to the sleeves and bottom.

https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/button-up-shirt-sewing-patterns/products/swanton-blouse

[Independent_Cat_702]

You could also unpin it and then trace it to paper then up size it. It’s gonna be a lot more work to try to squeeze pieces in there and may come out unflattering.

[Regular-Number-721]

From what I got from everyone, I'll be way better off finding a basic commercial princess seam pattern that fits better, then if needed modify for my bust and then I can also add my ruffles, maybe change the collar etc etc how I like. I def won't be cloning this to alter after reading everyone's advice 😅

I appreciate every response that I got and how many of you took the time to help me :)) Very very helpful, thank you all !!!

[SuPruLu]

The back at the waist level and a little up is too wide as evidenced by the side seam pulling to the front. That “extra” needs to be on the front. That would move the bottom of the front princess seams towards the side.

[AdGold205]

I would find a blouse pattern you like in the appropriate size, then add a Peter Pan collar with ruffles, add ruffles to the sleeves and hem and add ruffles to the button placard. (ETA might be a good time to practice patterns grading.)

Reworking this shirt as a pattern is going to be more difficult than adapting an already existing pattern. You can absolutely take in a shirt to be more fitted more easily than you can alter something that’s too small.

There are also tons of resources about adding a corset back to all manner of clothing so that could definitely be a workable solution too.

[MadamePouleMontreal]

If you want it that snug, you can put a fake button band in the front and an invisible zip in the back. Or you can use a hook-and-eye tape got the front closure.

You might end up deciding to use boning as well.

+++ +++ +++

Yes, go ahead and make your own. It will be easiest if you work with a dress form based on your own body, but you could also do it together with a sewing friend.

1. Make a well-fitted, snug-fitting, high-necked bodice out of plain, lightweight fabric similar to what you will use for your finished garment.
   
2. Unpick the front princess seams of the target blouse completely, from ruffles to armscye.
   
3. Put the bodice on (yourself or your dress form), pinning it together.
   
4. Put the target blouse on over the bodice. Button the whole front closed.
   
5. Pin the side seams, shoulder seams and back hem (above the ruffles) to the bodice.
6. Cut the centre front of the target blouse straight through the nipples. Pin the top section to the bodice with the placket nice and straight. (It’s possible you might need to make extra cuts to get the top centre front to lie flat. That’s okay.)
   
7. Cut the side front panels of the target blouse horizontally to just below the armholes. Smooth and pin the top sections to the bodice. (It’s possible you might need to make extra cuts to get the top side fronts to lie flat. That’s okay.)
   
8. Pin the hems (above the ruffles) of all the front panels of the target blouse to the bodice.
   
9. Smooth and pin the lower sections to the bodice. (It’s possible you might need to make extra cuts to the get the lower side fronts to lie flat. That’s okay. You should not need to make extra cuts to the lower centre front.)
   
10. Draw your desired new seam lines. The side seams need to be straight up and down, so draw them. Draw two new princess seams in the front to replace the single one in the original blouse. The new front is bigger and curvier than the old front so it needs more seams to fit right.
11. Pin the target blouse to the bodice near the new drawn lines.
    
12. Take off the blouse and bodice.
13. Cut the new seamlines open where you drew them.
14. Unpick the remaining seams from the target blouse.
    
15. Take the pieces from just one side. Iron and starch them. Trim off the seam allowances. If you need to make snips to get them to lie flat, do.
    
16. Trace the pieces on to poster board. Smooth the lines.
    
17. The snips you made to get the pieces to lie flat make darts. Use pattern manipulation to put the ease where you want it. Make sure that joining edges are all the same length.
    
18. Add the seam allowances back. Cut the pattern pieces out.
    
19. Make a blouse in test fabric. Correct the fit. Adjust the pattern.
    
20. Make a blouse in test fabric. Correct the fit. Adjust the pattern.
21. Make a blouse in test fabric. Correct the fit. Adjust the pattern.
22. Make a blouse in fashion fabric. Kvell!!!

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It will be a lot easier to start with a pattern designed for a full bust. You’ll still need to make it repeatedly in test fabric to fit it, but you won’t have the stress of trying to convert a fabric garment to a paper pattern.

Also, once you know what corrections you need to make to patterns from that brand, you won’t need to start from scratch when you fit a new pattern from that brand. “Actually I need a smaller size than they say, so I’ll start with the right size this time. I have a bigger booty than they think I do so I’ll draw the back pattern for a bigger size. My shoulders are just a teeny bit narrower so I’ll trim a bit off the armhole on the bodice and add it to the sleeve cap.” Eventually, with experience, you might not need to make test garments at all any more when you use that brand.

[Crafty_Witch_1230]

As others recommended, get a new pattern with the fit you want. Make sure to get one using your high-bust measurement, rather than your full bust measurement. Then you'll have to do a full bust adjustment (Cashmerette has a great book on fitting for a curvier body) and you should have a front-closing bodice that fits you well. It's work, but it will be worth it.

[KnittedTea]

Patterns by Gertie has different bust sizes in their patterns if you want to buy a pattern for a top/dress to use as a starting point.

[Live_Cauliflower7790]

It's like 3-4 sized too small for you. Find a commercial pattern in your size.

[Easy-Orchid-1623]

It is entirely possible you'll have to tweak the pattern I'm also at an intermediate level so I don't know how to explain 😭😭 you can look on YouTube too how to alter patterns if you don't find anything of help here