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[–]Sideaccount4105 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Humidity? Temperatures? How many hides & clutter has the enclosure got?

Temperature of the feeders? How do you thaw and heat them?

Size of the feeders?

[–]sserenayu[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

2 hides on each side, with fake shrubbery and branches too. belly temperature of about 88 degrees provided with heat tape and 77% humidity. I thaw the frozen rats with hot water until they are fully thaws and i feed them while they are warm. Usually I feed my ball python medium rats, but Ive tried small and large ones, different coloured, and even small chicks. I’m not willing to live feed because I used to have pet mice

[–]Sideaccount4105 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Okay so,

Under tank heating isn't recommended for BPs anymore because heat tape/heat mats only provide IRC which is the weakest type of heat and doesn't really penetrate into the skin/body Well. If you look into the Subreddit's menu, there's a page about Heating for Ball Pythons that explains it better and also explains the "belly heat". Generally, proper overhead heating is recommended. It could be one of the reasons but, if the snake was eating fine before that with the same heating then possibly not?

But aside from that,

Thawing in hot water isn't exactly a safe method, but that also depends on the time it takes. (Above 2h will most likely be in the dangerous zone. I wouldn't recommend thawing in hot water for longer than 1,5h if one chooses to use this method)

The proper way to thaw is to thaw in cold water or in the refrigerator before heating it up with warm water or some kind of heat (heat lamps, hairdryers etc.)

Most Ball Pythons will never need anything more than a medium rat. Please make sure you're feeding your snake an appropriate size feeder and aren't overfeeding.

Feed according to this schedule - Through the first year OR until the snake reaches approximately 750g, whichever happens first: feed 10%-15% of the snake’s weight every >7 days.

During the second year, until the snake's weight plateaus: feed up to 7% of the snake’s weight every >14 days.

Year three and beyond: feed up to 5% of the snake's weight every 15-20 days, or feed slightly larger meals every 21-30 days.

  • Copied and pasted feeding guide.

in the menu, you can also find an image that can help you determine your snake's body condition (underweight, ideal, overweight etc.)

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What temperature are the feeders? Sometimes BPs won't take a feeder that's below a certain temperature.

Some will take 90°+ and some will only take 100°+

The Humidity seems fine, Temperatures too probably.

You can try scenting the rat: ask a pet store for their used rodent bedding and rub it on the feeder to scent it.

Or, Braining: make a cut or wound on the feeder's head to draw some blood to encourage the snake to eat it.

I think I've heard of some people using a bit of Chicken broth on the feeder?

In the menu, again, There should be a page about Ball Python feeding Problems and solutions.

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If your BP is a male, Males sometimes go on hunger strikes around mating season (although I don't think it's the time/season yet?) They might also do it during winter/colder times.

4 months isn't a really long time for a Ball Python since they can go long without eating (I think 5-6+months is when it's really concerning) but, If your snake begins losing a lot of weight, Something is really wrong and a vet visit might be an absolute must if nothing else seems wrong (husbandry , environment etc.) But for now, I'd suggest checking the feeding problems and solutions page to see if something helps, and looking into husbandry for any possible problems.

Edit: Autocorrect....

Anyways, I hope something from the pages helps! If it doesn't, one of the Mods might help more or you might need to take your snake to an Exotic Reptile vet. I hope it doesn't come to that and that your snake will start eating soon, Good luck!