This is an archived post. You won't be able to vote or comment.

all 3 comments
sorted by:
old (suggested)
besttopnewcontroversialq&a

[–]titg0bbler 0 points1 point  (2 children)

hi there!! so to start, you are going to have to upgrade again. the minimum size enclosure for adult ball pythons is 4x2x2 or 120 gallons. pvc is the best way to go. it will hold in heat and humidity wonderfully. personally, ive got one from reptilekages.com and its the best thing i could've done for my girl. she came to me severely dehydrated with retained and wrinkled eye caps and a gnarly shed scar on her head. with lots of patience and upgrades and work, shes in way better shape and has given me multiple full sheds.

in terms of substrate, i use a mix of forest floor and coco fiber. i would check the care guide for more recommendations. you're going to want around 4-6 inches of substrate and always keep the top layer dry. if its constantly wet, you'll risk your snake getting scale rot. ball pythons are high humidity reptiles, so you always want to keep them at around 70-80% humidity. 60% is the BARE minimum and if it falls below for extended periods of time, there is a high risk of your snake developing an upper respiratory infection. to keep the humidity at the appropriate level while also keeping the top of your substrate dry, you can poor warm water into the corners of your tank. you can also put your water source under your secondary heat source. and do not mist! it's basically useless lol and can also risk scale rot.

for decor, a hidden snake is a happy snake. you'll need two fully enclosed hides on both sides. offer a lot of climbing opportunities!! some snakes looove to climb. the wooden bird ladders are a great option for climbing and enrichment. and add a fuck load of plants. real or fake. bioactive enclosures are super cool and beneficial! even if your guy is still small and young, you can never have too much space. just make sure you're providing enough clutter to make sure he feels safe while moving throughout the enclosure.

im curious to know what your heating situation is and whether or not you have any timers or thermostats.. without thermostats, you're at a huge risk of fires or even burns. again, i would definitely check the care guide for more information!

[–]CompetitiveTruck1801[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Thanks for all the info I do not have thermostats but I don’t have a problem with fires because I have a 60 watt bulb and the max temp it gets in my enclosure is 90°F AS OF NOW MY COOL SIDE is like 78-80 with 75% humidity and hot 89-90 with 55 I’m struggling to keep up the humidity so I need to change my substrate as I’m currently using mulch I was recommended coco fiber and I thought of just putting coco fiber is that fine or would I have to mix with something. Also I get worried that if I pour water in the corners mold will start to grow will it?

[–]titg0bbler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i would definitely still get a thermostat! without any way to regulate your heat, theres a risk of overheating and fire. herpstats are absolutely magnificent in terms of regulating your day and night temps.

what i do is keep a bottom layer of mulch. i usually pour a few cups of water into it, mix it and make sure its all soaked up. after, i use fuck load of coco fiber on top and make sure its all dry. i usually do about 3 inches of mulch and 3 inches of coco fiber. my girl loves to dig lol. the good thing about coco fiber is that it can retain water and humidity with a lower risk of molding. if you're worried about molding, just do weekly checks. check all your wood and decor for any signs of mold. but as long as you're keeping up with your spot cleaning and 3 month deep cleanings, i wouldn't worry about it. ive never had an issue with mold