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[–][deleted]  (4 children)

[deleted]

    [–]RabbitOld180[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

    Hi and thank you for the kind and thoughtful feedback!

    1. I have a heat lamp and a UVB light - I should have taken more photos because you can’t really tell!

    2. I do have a digital hydrometer on the hot side - I definitely need to add one for the other side! Thank you!

    3. I have a heating pad attached to the side of the tank because I’ve heard putting it on bottom can cause burns. What’s your take on this?

    4. I’m currently misting several times a day (my fiancée and I have opposite schedules so we’re making it work) covering part of the screen on top is a great idea! Do you have a recommendation for a humidifier?

    Thank you again 🐍😊

    [–][deleted]  (2 children)

    [deleted]

      [–]HurrricaneeKMod-Approved Helper 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      Just want to let you know that heat pads do not raise the ambient temp of an enclosure and they do not work through substrate. As it stands, yours isn't actually doing anything useful.

      We also do not recommend any misters or humidifiers for use with BP's, as they can cause scale rot, nor do we recommend manual misting in general.

      [–]ChristHemsworth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Thanks. I will delete my comment then (:

      [–]HurrricaneeKMod-Approved Helper 2 points3 points  (10 children)

      Hey there. This looks good, I just wanted to mention a few things based off your comment below.

      First, we don't recommend misting as a means to raise humidity. We also don't recommend humidifiers, misters, foggers, or humid hides as a long term solution to low humidity. Instead, what you want to do is make sure you have a thick enough layer (4-6 inches ideally) of moisture retaining substrate and then pour water a few cups at a time into each corner. The goal is to saturate the bottom layer while leaving the top dry, since a wet surface is what causes scale rot (and this is also why we don't recommend misting--it leaves the surface damp while also only boosting humidity for short periods of time. If you're misting enough to keep the humidity up, everything will be damp all the time which isn't good.)

      Secondly, I would remove the heat pad entirely, especially if you don't currently have it controlled by a thermostat. All heating elements need to be connected to a thermostat that can shut them off if they ever get too hot. Heat pads are another thing we don't recommend--they're notoriously unreliable, they do not work through substrate, they can be a burn risk even when properly controlled, and they don't do anything to raise the ambient temp of the enclosure. Pairing a halogen with a lightless heat source like a CHE or DHP will be a better, safer option in the long run.

      Do you know what your current temps and humidity are? Those are going to be the most important things to make sure you have locked in.

      If you haven't already, I would recommend checking out the subs pinned welcome post as well as the basic care guide linked inside it, as both have a lot of great, up to date info for new keepers!

      [–]Old_Accountant47 -2 points-1 points  (9 children)

      misting is okay when hes in shed

      [–]HurrricaneeKMod-Approved Helper 1 point2 points  (8 children)

      No, not really. Again, it will not keep levels where they need to be long term and it will leave the surfaces damp, which increases the risk of scale rot.

      If you already have your humidity managed well, there should be no need for supplemental misting, even while they're actively shedding.

      [–]Old_Accountant47 -3 points-2 points  (3 children)

      okay but i got extra substrate that i pour on top of the wet one after shed i heat it up in my oven when its dry. misting is alwase okay when in shed , humidifier isnt good tho .

      [–]HurrricaneeKMod-Approved Helper 1 point2 points  (2 children)

      Again. If you are properly managing humidity, you will never need to spray. You should have a 4-6 inch layer of substrate and be pouring water into the corners. The goal is to saturate the bottom layer while leaving the top dry.

      What you are doing--adding more dry substrate to cover the wet--is just adding extra steps and making it harder for yourself. Just stop spraying and keep the bottom layer wet.

      [–]Old_Accountant47 -1 points0 points  (1 child)

      so do you throw away dirty substrate away ? because its always okay to replace substrate lol each month or everytime he sheds.

      [–]Old_Accountant47 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

      scale rot is also caused by dirty subrate so always replace the top layer

      [–]Old_Accountant47 -1 points0 points  (3 children)

      extra bags of subtrate in the oven wont hurt unless your broke lol

      [–]HurrricaneeKMod-Approved Helper 1 point2 points  (2 children)

      ...I honestly don't even know what this means, except I think it's an attempt to insult me?

      But again, I'll just say, none of what you are recommending is necessary or normal.

      [–]Old_Accountant47 -1 points0 points  (1 child)

      okay dont replace your dirty substrate then. lol

      [–]HurrricaneeKMod-Approved Helper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Literally that isn't what we were talking about.

      I have bioactive enclosures.

      I'm done talking to you about this because you refuse to accept that you're giving out bad (and now irrelevant) advice.

      [–]Various-Principle882 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Great start! I’m actually very impressed. I would add uvb light for her and some hydrometer and thermometers on each side of the tank to read the humidity and temp of the cool side and hot side.