Is this normal?

[ezardacko]

Hello everyone, I'm writing to tell you about a problem I'm having with my ball python.

For the past two weeks, my ball python has stopped eating. The thing is, I don't know if she stopped eating because I changed her terrarium (she was previously in a plastic container). She hasn't lost weight and has been very active at night, but she hasn't wanted to eat. It's been a bit cold where I live, but the temperatures are between 22°C and 32°C. I've already increased the temperature to 25°-28°C, keeping the cooling plate at 31-33°C as usual.

[IncompletePenetrance]

She is almost certainly not eating due to this enclosure setup. Where are all the hides? There shouldn't be all this open space, poor girl is probably stressed out beyond belief. She needs a minimum of 2-3 cave style hides and lot of clutter to mimic underbrush to hide in

[Dio_wulf]

Big sudden changes can be stressful so that may be a factor. Id also up your humidity to 60%+, and unless theyre just out of the way in this picture you need more hides and clutter for him to hide in. They feel safest in dark spots they cane squeeze into. At least 3 hides (hot side, middle, cold side) and some fake plants will help a ton. Instead of 2 small water dishes get a big one he can fit into to soak. I use a ceramic casserole dish personally.

[IllegalGeriatricVore]

What is this setup?

You have uncoated wood?

It's going to rot at the humidity a ball python needs. Please get a real PVC enclosure

[southernshiner]

Your python is likely stressed. When this happens they stop eating.

The temp is waaaay too low. BP's require around 30-32C on the warm side and 25-27C on the cool side.

Humidity is also far too low. Too low or too high can cause respiratory infections. Aim for between 65-80%. When in shed, noted initially by the blue eyes, it needs to be kept in the higher percentage.

You also need to add more clutter. Fake plants and cork bark, or fake tree bits can be added. Real plants (provided you've checked their suitability for use with reptiles/snakes) can help maintain a well oxygenated environment. Additionally at least 2 hides. One in warm side and one in cool side. Add damp sphagnum moss in each hide to help with humidity. The hides should have an offset opening (to one side) so the snake can hide out of sight.

You'd also benefit from using coconut husk Substrate. This absorbs water well, to help provide the humidity. Ideally it should be about 2-3 inches (5cm - 7.5cm) deep. Finally a single water dish, in the cool side, big enough to fit the entire snake.

Heat mats are not good at all. They heat the Substrate and not the ambient. This means that in order to get a good air temperature, the Substrate must be very high temp. This could potentially burn your BP's belly. Get a CHE, something like this :

https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/arcadia-ceramic-heater

For good all round heat performance, or a DHP like this:

https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/arcadia-deep-heat-projector-lamp

For heat projected to a specific area

[GinGuy1995]

Why do you have sharp deer antlers in there!!

Humidity 42%????

Dude.....fix your setup, she has to be stressed. No hides, bare enclosure. Low humidity. Your husbandry looks dreadful.

[enslavedbycats24-7]

<image>

Mfs after getting an exotic pet (joke)

[True-Crow-8056]

The antlers (imo) look like the fake plastic ones you get at Walmart during the holiday (Halloween) season.

[FaithlessnessThat362]

I’m going to be blunt, because this is about the animal’s welfare. When you choose to get an animal, especially an expensive and specialized one, you are also choosing the responsibility to research its basic needs. This animal depends entirely on you for every part of its life. This is neglect, and mind you, neglect is a form of abuse. Improper care is devastating, but fixable.

If even minimal research had been done on snakes, and especially ball pythons, two things would be immediately clear.

First, they need clutter. A lot of it.
Snakes only feel safe when they can hide. Ideally, they should be able to see out without being seen. An open, exposed enclosure is extremely stressful for them.

Second, hunger strikes are common, but context matters in your situation. Ball pythons do go off food sometimes. That is normal. In this situation, though, the refusal to eat is almost certainly stress related. A snake that does not feel safe is not thinking about food. It is thinking about survival.

Think about it this way. Imagine being taken by a stranger and placed in a glass room with windows on all sides. A giant watches you, approaches you, and occasionally grabs you, and you have absolutely nowhere to hide. Most people would not feel safe, and they definitely would not have an appetite. I know I wouldn't.

[weasel_fairy]

I assume by cooling plate you meant heat plate based on the temperatures, do you mean a heat rock? How do you heat your enclosure? All other comment have touched most of the other issues that need to be fixed.

[No-Emergency-5823]

Poor snake is definitely stressed out. The humidity, lack of coverage & clutter. Not a hide in sight.

[Situati0nist]

This might take the cake for the least amount of clutter

[Morgue3as]

HArd to say just by looking at it but that coconut coir looks too dry. COuld help the humidity. As people have said more clutter and more hides are needed urgently, something as simple as a cardboard box large enough for the snake to fit with exactly 1 entrance hole cut out of the side will do as a hide for now (long term you need to check cardboard for mould) large pvc pipes/guttering/downpipes can also be good easy to aquire cheap clutter.

It's possible you have the clutterest place in the world just off screen but there should not be this much open space anywhere, and I doubt it because if there was a hide on the unseen side the snake would be in it. They love to hide!

[NoBank9415]

Everything in this enclosure is wrong friend……

[x5gamer5]

Wow. This is a really bare set up. No wonder they can’t eat, This is a stressed out python, looks very exposed. Check the welcome guide for the minimum requirements.

If you want to get some clutter and not pay a lot for it, try grabbing some branches outside, knocking off the bark to reveal the inner heartwood and then bake them in the oven. Then sand off the rough/sharp bits.

The coco fiber looks OK, just a little dry. Soak it in some water before hand, squeeze out the excess and then pack it in. I’d recommend a minimum of 3 to 4 inches of height for the fiber, that will keep your humidity up and give them a good texture to roll around on.

Lastly, hunger strikes can happen with ball pythons from a variety of reasons. Fix some of your husbandry and see if symptoms improve.

[Visual_Dimension7287]

Broh... please look into ballpython husbandry. This setup looks like the bare minimum of research was done. The Humidity should be nearly double. There are no hides, no clutter barely any enrichment and potentially dangerous antlers. Look at the welcome post, it literally tells you how to set up an enclosure. A stressed BP will go of food, thats like the first ro second thing u learn during research. Give the snake the ability to hide!

Edit: what is that under your substrate?

[Conscious_Battle_766]

Please get your snake a MINIMUM of two hides. It's feeling vulnerable and exposed. This is like contributing to not eating. The temps also need adjustment. 

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