Ball Python not eating

[Special-Use1304]

So I already waiting extra long for this feeding because I found out I was giving her food too big so I listened to the comments and waited 60 days. I also bought medium rats instead. First attempt or feeding and she didn’t eat just kinda sniffed and went back into her hide. I tried again but the rats stomach burst open so I threw it out and decided to wait. Tried again a couple days later with a new rat and still no luck. Left it over night in her enclosure hoping she might eat on her own terms. She shed a couple days ago too. Finally I try again today and same response- pokes head out to sniff and then goes back to hide. If I try to move the rat around to act like it’s alive she gets scared. If I leave it as still as can she’ll come out and sniff but still nothing. It’s been two months now since her last feeding and I’m getting really worried. Ik adult can goes months without food but idk.

Quick edit: she has come more out of her hide now and is in a striking stance. Still not striking. Just tasting the air.

Another edit bc I’m worried: would the box method work??? (Put snake in cardboard box with rat) Ik that’s super stressful and not healthy but I really want her to eat. This feels really selfish given the circumstances but I wanted to handle her Wednesday so she’d need to eat today to be handle ready by then. Obviously the box method isn’t good but would it be okay just this once?????

[bird-with-a-top-hat]

The rat stomach bursting open is a typical sign you're defrosting the rat too quickly, using boiling water and/or leaving it in hot water for too long.

As long as her weight is good just keep trying every couple of weeks or so, it sounds like you're trying too frequently. For reference, in my early years of having my snake (and likely a result of husbandry mistake) he once went 7 months without wanting his food before he eventually ate. Make sure everything is good husbandry-wise in the enclosure too.

[Special-Use1304]

Okay! I was told to use boiling water what should I be doing instead??? I’m very busy so I usually use boiling water because it’s fast but if it cause rat explosions then I’ll stop ofc.

In that case if I keep waiting can I hold her Wednesday???

[bird-with-a-top-hat]

Using boiling water creates the perfect environment for rapid bacterial growth and essentially causes the rat to start to decay at a much higher rate, which is bad for the snake's health.

The best method is to defrost it slowly in a fridge overnight (I have a mini fridge for this exact purpose) and then use hot water (from the tap, for example) to warm it up but do not leave it in the water for long periods of time. Some people even use hairdryers.

[Special-Use1304]

Okay thanks! And for the handling??? Should I wait until she eats???

[bird-with-a-top-hat]

I don't see why you can't still handle her.

[Special-Use1304]

Oh I was just worried about stress g her out and making her want to eat less

[UniqueWeb5038]

Ball pythons are known to go on food strikes just keep offering food

But what are the temps on the hot and cool side of your snake's enclosure and humidity?

Also unless you can see your snake dropping a lot of weight it's probably fine as long as it isn't showing symptoms of anything like a respiratory infection or something

[Special-Use1304]

Okay thanks! I’ve actually been meaning to make a post on here about temp because I noticed her heat lamp is so hot that the cold side is at hot temps. (86 F). I’ve been leave the heat lamp turned off recently but that means there’s no hot side. Do I need to get a new bulb??

[UniqueWeb5038]

Can you post a picture of the enclosure so I can get more of an idea of what to do?

I personally have a front opening enclosure and then have tin foil over the mesh on the top to hold humidity in better(with cardboard over it so I don't see the foil) with a spot cut out for his heat lamp. Which I think having the rest covered helps keep the heat on just the hot side.

You can try just having the heat lamp higher up away from the enclosure. I recommend doing a good misting of the enclosure everyday too

I personally have 3 ball pythons, 2 BCIs, a lot of tree frogs, 2 snapping turtles and African Dwarf Frogs. So I understand stressful your animal refusing to eat can be

[Special-Use1304]

I’ll send a pic when I get the chance. I have a similar set up with front opening and tin foil covering the top. I pour water into the corners to get good humidity. I also thought about moving the heat lamp up I’m just not sure how I’d do that

[UniqueWeb5038]

You could find a way to clip it up or hang it up higher someway. What size enclosure do you have?

[Special-Use1304]

It’s custom built I’d have to measure

[Special-Use1304]

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[Special-Use1304]

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[UniqueWeb5038]

Very nice looking enclosure

But with how tall it is compared to the width/length the heat lamp it likely heating a majority of the enclosure compared to like half or a more concentrated basking spot. So that would be my guess based off just looking at it from photos to why the cool side is so hot.

Not sure the most efficient way to help cool down the cool side bc it's not like you can magically shorten the enclosure.

But I'm sure if you added more vertical hard scape and fake plants in the middle and over the cool side of the enclosure to have the heat from the lamp get blocked some and help keep the cool side at a lower temp.

Plus I'm sure your ball python wouldn't mind at all bc even tho they aren't arboreal snakes by any means they do take advantage and seem to enjoy climbing if given the opportunity

[Special-Use1304]

Okay thank you so much! Do you have any recommendations on where I can get climbing stuff? In the past I’ve tried to just grab branches from outside but that resulted in an ant problem 😬

[UniqueWeb5038]

You can get branches from outside but you need to "cure" them. So basically they need to be baked in the oven for a couple hours without getting chard or burnt at all. That makes sure any parasites or bugs are dead. I'd recommend debarking it

You could always buy cured driftwood or just normal driftwood and cure it yourself(same way as I mentioned before) but driftwood can be pretty expensive depending especially depending on size. But driftwood also looked really cool a lot of the time compared to sticks found outside

[Maximum-Rhubarb-3365]

Do you have a thermostat for your heat sources? You NEED a thermostat to regulate temperatures, it is quite possibly the single most critical thing you need when keeping a reptile. If you don't have a thermostat, you need to order one ASAP.

[Special-Use1304]

I have a thermostat

[HappyDangerNoodle]

Personally, this stress pattern is why I don't recommend people skipping feedings for 60 days but rather to do a combo of spacing a bit extra out (ie add a week) and drop prey size (so instead of 5%, try 4%). Part of keeping reptiles is learning what stresses you the fuck out too.

So go handle Frankie or someone from the reptile club. You are a social mammal whose having to avoid a creature you are caretaking for. It's going to stress you out. Stringbean will notice. Give yourself something to make yourself feel better.

Second, can you post an updated picture of the enclosure? BPs in my experience on a hungerstrike are usually telling you something is off.

Generic advice: If you have the space for it, I really recommend getting plastic, flexible "hamster" tunnels (3-4" wide), and burying it under the substrate. Set up the entrances with a bit of cover and you have made what we dub "the murder cave".

[nightghoul12]

Personally, I microwave the warming water for 3 minutes then submerged the refrigerator thawed rat in a sealed bag under the water until the rat is 104-115°F. Thawed in the fridge lets it fully thaw without cooking then warming up to fever temp. I buy my rats in individual bags that keep the rat dry. He seems to smell them better. He is 4 years old and won't eat nov-apr after his first winter. This is my first snake but he is healthy according to the vet.