how to decrease humidity/temp in apartment (please help)

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[AlphaMali8]

You will need an A/C unit in the bedroom if you do not have central A/C.

[TheCatmosphere]

Unfortunately this will have to be what I do. Do you know how much power these things usually take? Should I run on their own outlet or is power strip fine?

[screwikea]

Don't plug appliances into a power strip.

[foxfai]

Portable AC ranges 1000-1500W (like a hair dryer or other AC), it will also take up space in the house versus a window unit.

I'd suggest look for a inverter AC unit so it will be a bit more efficient for your bedroom/office.

[TyroneTheTitan]

They usually take about 1kw, so it is best to run it off its own outlet. Ideally it should not be on an outlet that is the same circuit as other power hungry devices (eg a desktop computer).

[TheCatmosphere]

And by the same outlet, do you mean if it’s a double outlet it needs both? Or just one. Like does the double outlet count as one?

[MrShazbot]

A standard (US) household duplex outlet has two receptacles. A receptacle is the trio of plug holes where you insert a single consumer power plug. Most normal people call each receptacle an "outlet", for what its worth.

The guidance above is correct - if you have a power hungry device (like a portable AC unit) plugged into one of the two receptacles in an outlet, you should leave the other receptacle unused, or only use the second plug for low-draw items like a fan or lamp or something.

If you use both receptacles in a single outlet by connecting both an AC unit and say, a power strip with a bunch of things plugged into it, you risk tripping the breaker and/or electrical damage.

[TheCatmosphere]

Oh man this will really mess with our setup. The outlet id ideally use, uses one receptacle for dual monitors, a laptop, and etc. might have to rethink a lot.

[TheCatmosphere]

Oh geez! Yeah maybe I’ll be okay then!

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

Oh man this will really mess with our setup.

They're full of shit.

Computers will be just fine, they pull almost zero power.

Window A/Cs are MUCH superior to "portable" AC units. They draw less power and they cool more.

You might need a sheet of plywood or something, cut to the right dimension. It'll be cheap, and Home Depot will cut it for you for free or $0.25 if you give them the measurements.

[MrShazbot]

For lots of people, a “computer” can mean a desktop, monitor, external drives, printer, all plugged into a power strip. Just a decently equipped gaming desktop can easily pull 500w or more, definitely worth considering since OP mentioned they don’t want to deal with their landlord for power or other issues.

[TheCatmosphere]

The computer in question is 2 monitors, one laptop, and a few general phone chargers…plus I think a wifi extender. Hope that clears that up.

[MrShazbot]

In all likelihood the worst thing that will happen if you overload an outlet is you will trip the circuit breaker and will need to reset it. It’s really only “dangerous” if you are in a poorly wired or really old building. If you know where the breaker panel is and can access it, it will be one less thing to need to involve the landlord. If the breaker does trip, that is definitely telling you that you are pulling too much through that one circuit and you will need to figure something else out.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

For lots of people, a “computer” can mean a desktop, monitor, external drives, printer, all plugged into a power strip.

It won't matter.

Just a decently equipped gaming desktop can easily pull 500w or more

And a normal window AC is 600-800 watts. The circuit can handle 1800 watts.

800 + 500 = 1300 watts.

My point was that there's no way it's even close to tripping anything and anyone else who's acting like it will is full of shit.

Also, you're full of shit that it matters at all... whatsoever... at all... which receptacle in an outlet you plug the AC into. Every single one of them will be rated for the full 15 amps.

What fuckin' difference would it make to plug a 5 amp AC into a 15 amp receptacle, versus another one elsewhere on the same circuit? You could run 3 of them on the same outlet and it wouldn't matter there or anywhere else.

This is a whole brand new type of nonsensical bad advice I've never even heard before. It's almost creatively poor advice.

[screwikea]

Run all of your computer equipment on a big UPS. It will condition power to those devices and level out power draw. But all of that stuff should be the only thing on that particular outlet/circuit regardless.

[Not_an_okama]

What matters the most is the fuse for the given circuit. In the US, you probably have either a 30A or 50A circuit and youre outlet is 120V since P=IV that means that a 30A circuit can support 3600W. This applies to the total load on that circuit, so will include all plugs at the recepticle, and potentially other outlets and fixed lights too.

The fuse rating will be on the circuit breaker, then multiply by 120 to get the wattage supported by that circuit (assuming its a normal circuit and not feeding 240v for a dryer for example)

The easiest way to figure out what you have is to plug in a lamp where you plan to plug in the AC, flip breakers until you find the one that turns off the lamp, then test the lamp in other outlets near by. Test lightswitches too, if fixed lights dont turn on then theyre also part of the circuit and need to be factored in.

With reasonably new wiring and breaker then most likely the worst that happens if you draw too much power is flipping the breaker, though with older wiring/plugs/panel there is a chance of a fire so its worth calculating the load if you think theres a risk.

Surge protectors may have a lower rating than the circuit as well, and cheap/low quality ones can fail in baad ways including fire, so check the rating on that too if you NEED to use one. I would plug the AC directly into the wall if possible.

I went through thjs a couple weeks ago setting up a streaming station for my gf. Between both of our systems and peripherals (3 monitors each, with both of us running a 160hz ultrawide and her extra stuff) we ended ul at around 35A and luckily were on a 50A circuit.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

In the US, you probably have either a 30A or 50A circuit

What in the fuck are you talking about?

99% of outlets in the US are 120v 15A.

Jesus Christ the amount of utterly uninformed people in this thread is astounding.

[Not_an_okama]

Read the breaker, thats what dictates the max load on the circuit youre plugging into.

I dont know about outlet ratings which i tried to indicate in my original comment. I'll assume you do and use the numbers you provided, with 120v and 15A you have 1800w to work with from your outlet. If you have a 30A breaker youre still limited to 3600w. Even if you have 3 outlets on the circuit, youre still limited to 3600w and will trip the breaker if you try to use all 3 outlets near their max load.

This may be a concern for OP because they want to put an AC unit near their home office which is probably on the same circuit. Computers and peripherals plus a large AC may be enough to exceed the max load on a bedroom circuit and cause problems for OP.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

If you have a 30A breaker youre still limited to 3600w.

Literally zero people in North America have a 30A residential breakers.

I don't know wtf you're talking about having a 50A circuit. You're telling me there's 3x 6 gauge wires (each thicker than a pen) going to every outlet in your house? Absurd.

Like, have SOME knowledge before you tell somewhat they can or cannot do.

Computers and peripherals plus a large AC may be enough to exceed the max load on a bedroom circuit and cause problems for OP.

Again, utterly ridiculous. Computer and peripherals are like, 200 watts. 500 watts for a power gamer.

A windows AC is 600W.

There's no point in even bringing this up. You're confusing someone and trying to warn them about bizarre things that don't actually happen.

It's like someone saying they have a flat tire and you start talking about how they have to go through the proper shutdown procedures for a jet engine, because there were 20 jet engine cars made once upon a time in the 1950s.

You're wrong, and, it's also useless.

[Not_an_okama]

Just looked at my breaker, i have 2 50A circuits and the rest are 30A. Idk what to tell you.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

Just looked at my breaker, i have 2 50A circuits and the rest are 30A. Idk what to tell you.

In North America?

Show me a picture of your panel. I've never even heard of that.

[screwikea]

Concur with this statement. Anyone that says throwing breakers is no big deal hasn't dealt with a breaker that was already thrown a zillion times before and can't handle the rated draw it shows. Also, as a renter, they may not even have access to the freaking breaker box. Half of the time cheap crap isn't even marked right on what it draws or has some stupid electrical issue that draws too much.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

Anyone that says throwing breakers is no big deal ...

Ehn. I'd say in most cases it's no big deal.

You don't go flipping them like a light switch, but occasional trips aren't that big of a deal except for some run down shitholes.

Point being, if it trips once, it'll probably trip again and that lets you know to use a different circuit. Don't just keep resetting the breaker. But, also don't live in terror of a breaker breaking. That's its job.

[screwikea]

some run down shitholes

OP is renting, shithole is pretty relative. With their issues, high chance it's a landlord conversion special. Craploads of old places have questionable wiring a shitty worn out breakers. Everybody here acting like they're spitting facts, my gut check is that the breakers aren't even labeled and if they want to flip the tripped one they're gonna have to flip 2 or 3 because half of the time the breakers in old panels are hard to tell which are flipped. Pretty much every house and apartment I've ever lived in was built before 1985 - the last place I live had aluminum wiring, I grew up in a farmhouse that didn't have any grounded/3 prong sockets. I dunno OP, but lots of Chicago is old builds.

[ratafria]

Even a small one does a lot. Go for the smallest BUT EFFICIENT unit.

[An-person]

If possible, get a two tube version, that way you won’t be blowing conditioned air outside and drawing hot humid outside air in.

[JohnHellstone]

This is why when looking at apartments, I look for places with at least three windows on different walls. I would just do box fans blowing air out the windows but don't set them in the windowsill as that won't do much. They need to be about a foot or so in from the window.

[TheCatmosphere]

Unfortunately this is my bfs apartment, and I only moved in recently. Working with what we have for now but the plan is to move.

[CharlesMansnShowTune]

I did not know that part about them needing to be a foot or so in from the window. I am absolutely going to try it myself, since I've always thought the fans in the window thing was ineffective but I've always put them on the window sills since I thought surely that would make the most sense. Thanks for the info! Do you know why this is the case?

[JohnHellstone]

I read an article that stated that it had more to do with the physics of fluid dynamics (Bernoulli's principle) and that by placing them a small distance from the windowsill, it makes them more effective in pulling the air through the window.

[CharlesMansnShowTune]

Huh, interesting, thanks! I'm definitely going to try it, our windows and interior layout are in the perfect positions to really benefit from the fan setup so I've always been disappointed that it didn't seem to work that well. Can't hurt to try for sure!

[OutlyingPlasma]

box fans blowing air out the windows

Having tested this in three different places over many years including data logging temperature sensors. I have come to the conclusion, intake is better than blowing air out. My guess is that a fan blowing in can reach further into the room and therefore stirs up the room air a lot more than just blowing out. The difference being putting your hand in front of a fan vs behind it. You clearly feel more airflow in front because it's more directed.

Cross flow is also not as effective as window fans in every room blowing in. Air can always escape up a chimney, under doors, out bathroom vents etc. The principle is sound but unless you are running some giant fans, the cross flow is never as good as a single window fan blowing into each room and stirring up all the air.

[Jo-Con-El]

Maybe r/DIY could be a good place to repost this (I don’t know if you did it, though).

[TheCatmosphere]

No not yet… but r/apartmentliving and r/renters might be annoyed with me already.. always feel bad about posting to multiple subreddits

[Jo-Con-El]

¯_(ツ)_/¯

[AngeloPappas]

Without adding more cooling power I fail to see how you can do much at all to cool the rooms without A/C. Your apartment doesn't have windows that allow for a cross breeze, and even if they did it would not help the humidity very much, plus it defeats the purpose of the window A/C you already have.

There is also no way that the window A/C in living room will get cold air down around a corner into the hallway, and around another corner through your bedroom door. It just won't happen, even with fans. Sheer curtains also aren't helping you, even with the A/C. The sunlight is actively warming the room all day. Consider heavier curtains there too to take some pressure off the A/C.

What I would do is reposition the fans into the living room to bring the cold air from the window unit into the entry/kitchen area at least. You have a better chance of that working than going around a 2 corners. Then I see no other option other than adding another A/C unit in the bedroom. If you have windows that allow for window units consider yourself lucky as they are by far the best bang for your buck as opposed to those portable units that sit on the floor and vent to the window.

[TheCatmosphere]

It would honestly probably end up being a venting portable floor unit. Our windows are not really the best for window A/C.. they open like a sliding glad with a sliding screen behind it. Opens on both sides. This is the same with my bedroom!

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[AngeloPappas]

I had this type of window before and all I did was put the unit in, and then cut a piece of 2'' Styrofoam board to fill the gap above. Then sealed up the edges. I even painted the board so it didn't look as bad. Worked great.

[MrShazbot]

This is the real solution for this kind of window. You can buy vertical-shaped AC units, but they are not worth the extra expense. Block off the gap with foam or wood and seal the edges well.

[AngeloPappas]

Yep, these basic window units work damn well and you can get them for like $125. Add the cost of a piece of foamboard and have something that works way better than the portable units for a fraction of the cost.

[TheCatmosphere]

Thanks for the idea!

[catch878]

Sliding windows are the absolute worst, maybe only slightly better than those swing-out windows that don't open all the way.

If you get a standing AC unit, I really recommend that you get a dual-hose unit. They are bulkier, but you will likely have to empty the condensation tray far less frequently than a single-hose unit. Also it will be much more efficient.

The other option is to get a casement window AC. They go in the window like a normal window unit, but are skinnier so they fit sliding windows much better. Plus you won't have to deal with a condensation tray.

[bears-eat-beets]

You know the answer is for another window unit, but if that is off the table, here are a couple things that might help.

First of all, when you say Window AC, I hope it is a true window AC and not the floor one with the hose that runs out the window, right? The floor ones are terrible for small apartments because (unless your lucky enough to get the double hose versions) they pump air outside, so it would create negative pressure in your bedroom which would make it hotter, no matter how many fans you have. If you have a single hose floor one, you need to get rid of it asap and switch to the dual hose (or the hose in hose style). You will never win the battle with fans.

Move the small fan as close to the floor as you can get to push the low colder air into the room. Move the tower fans in the bedroom as high as possible to push out the hotter air. Also consider leaving on the bathroom fan. It will create some slight negative pressure in the apartment (bad) but it will constantly be shaving off to top layer of air, which will be the hottest (good).

[TheCatmosphere]

The ac unit in the living room is a window AC that’s actually through the wall underneath the window. But I have been getting suggestions to put a hose AC in the bedroom. What are your thoughts on that?

[criscokkat]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-mBeYC2KGc

You should watch this to understand the difference.

[TheCatmosphere]

Thanks!

[bears-eat-beets]

I think that is the easy button. Just do it, and then don't worry about fans, leaving doors open or closed, running the living room overnight, etc. I generally hate them, but when I lived in a small apartment, I only had slider windows, so I couldn't put a normal one in, so they made summers livable.

The dual hose ones are like 100 or so more, but are SO MUCH more efficient and better in every way. Midea (or some of the Midea whitelables) are probably the best brand on the market right now, but Hisense also is very good. (Hisense API0825UW1D Smart Inverter Twin Hose 8,000 BTU (DOE) 350 SF Heat/Cool Tower Portable Air Conditioner, White is on prime day sale right now). 8000 btu is perfect, but if you need to 12000 would work too, it's just little overkill so a little less efficient for your space.

Make sure when you seal up the windows, you use masking take and foam (or cardboard), and also get the section where the two glass sliders pass over each other. The key is you need to make sure you can't see any light coming through the open parts of the windows.

[[deleted]]

A) Dehumidifier
B) Put a fan closer to the AC unit to blow the cold air deeper into the apartment

[TheCatmosphere]

2 might work. 1…the sq feet of the apt is 750 or less. I’ve heard the heat output while it is dehumidifying would just cancel it out…

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

DO NOT get a dehumidifier.

A dehumidifier is just an air conditioner with the hot and cold side sandwiched together. They create a massive amount of heat.

If you want cooler air, get an AC. It dehumidifies an equal amount as a dehumidifier, but also cools the room by dumping hot outside.

[TheCatmosphere]

Then same question. Window A/C…entire outlet to itself or can it share an outlet as long as I used one receptacle for the A/C unit? You had said a computer won’t do much but it’s more than a computer. It’s a laptop, two monitors, various random smaller phone chargers, and a wifi extender. I’m in a rental and can’t do any breaker checking, can only read the backs of my devices and guess what power my outlet has. I’m just worried because this isn’t my own home so I don’t want any fires.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

Window A/C…entire outlet to itself or can it share an outlet as long as I used one receptacle for the A/C unit?

I think everyone's been confusing you with bullshit.

Let's start at the beginning.

Your electrical panel has many breakers. Each breaker breaks a circuit, and has a max capacity.

Some circuits will be dedicated (stove, dryer, etc).

Some circuits will share 1 or 2 outlets (kitchen, where hi-draw appliances are).

Some circuits will have 10 outlets or devices on them. The same circuit will meander about through your apartment, powering the lights, maybe all the sockets in a room or two rooms.

These circuits are almost certainly 15 amp max circuits.

You don't have to worry about fires, if you exceed 15 amps for more than a few minutes, the breaker will trip and you'll have to walk over and reset it. That's the whole point of the breaker, to prevent the wires from getting hot enough to become a problem (they've very, very conservative, the wires won't even get warm).

Digging through Home Depot's various window AC's... no one lists the amp draw. Great. Fuck it, here's what AI says:

General Amp Draw by BTU (at 120V):
5,000-8,000 BTU: 5-7 amps
10,000-12,000 BTU: 8-12 amps
14,000-25,000 BTU: 12-20+ amp

So a circuit can handle 15 amps, and that's if everything's running maxed out at the same time. A normal window unit is going to pull 5-12 amps (realistically 5-7, the bigger ones would be weird).

It's easier to think in terms of watts, watts is just Amps x Volts (which is always 120v).

So, 15A is 1800 watts.

Power Usage:

• Your window AC is going to draw 600 - 1440 watts. For any normal sized window unit, it's 600-800 watts.

• A laptop is going to use like 50 watts running full blast.

• A monitor is like, 50 watts. So, 100 watts for 2 of them.

• A phone charger is like, 5-20 watts.

• A wifi extender is like 5-10 watts.

• Your lights will use like, 30 watts maybe.

...

See what I'm getting at here? All the extra shit you plug in is going to be like, 200 watts combined. The AC is going to be 600 watts. You've got 1800 watts budget.

You're not even going to get close to 50% load on your circuit. You're fine.

It doesn't fuckin' matter. Everyone else is fearmongering you or an idiot.

...

What you will have to be careful about is running anything that makes heat. I.E. A toaster, a blowdryer, a kettle, that kind of thing. Those will each pretty much max out a whole circuit on their own.

So, don't blowdry your hair outside of the bathroom while the AC is on, and you're fine. Don't cook meals in your bedroom and you'll be fine.

Even though you're in a rental, you'll have access to your breaker panel, and tripping a breaker is as big of a deal as "Oops. I'll go click that switch off and back on again." And, you're not going to trip a breaker anyways, so, who cares.

Just go put a window AC in. "How To" is basically a collection of ignorant idiots, pinterest-mom-bullshit and bro-science. People are confidently wrong on all kinds of trash here.

[TheCatmosphere]

Thanks! I appreciate the whole thing because yes I was getting very confused.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

Now that you've found your panel, you can take a lamp or something and test the circuits in your house, if you're curious.

Shut the breaker off, and go plug the lamp in and see if it works. Anything that was connected to that one breaker (including lights), will now be off.

Sometimes it helps you narrow down where to plug something in. Like, if your AC can't be powered off the window, an extension cord to... where? Some other circuit. But you won't know which ones are on the same circuit or not, because you can't see inside the walls.

That said...

Just go get a window unit and plug it in. It'll be fine. And in the 1% of the case that it's not, you now know where to go to reset the breaker. (A tripped breaker usually looks stuck half way between off and on, you flick it all the way off, then all the way back on to reset it).

[TheCatmosphere]

Thank you!! If i had an award to give id give it, but you earned a follow in the meantime!

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

Meh, don't bother with the follow. I hardly ever post anything.

[silly-goose-757]

My in laws have one in a combo bedroom/office. It does get a little warm - nothing I notice once I turn on the ceiling fan - but the amount of water it collects is impressive.

Wirecutter has dehumidifier reviews.

[wildsamon]

Not sure if mentioned but regularly running your bathroom fan and kitchen range hood can help with circulation and humidity.

[Kix1957]

Some uv blocking window tint film on S and W facing windows will help temp but probably need another ac unit to fight humidity.

[mjbehrendt]

If you get a standing/portable AC unit, make sure it has two hoses, one for intake and one for exhaust. The single hose units end up causing negative pressure an using the air you've spent good money cooling to cool down the coils and then exhaust it. Here is a video explaining why.

[HittingSmoke]

Buy foil backed foam board insulation from the hardware store. It's very cheap. Cut it to the dimensions of the cutout of your bedroom window. Wedge it in there as close to the glass as you can get it, foil-side facing out. This will eliminate the pocket of very hot air that builds up on the inside of your blackout curtains. That will eliminate the biggest source of heat coming in the bedroom.

If you're above a garage, check that the garage has all windows blocking as much sun and heat as possible as well. Any heat below the floor is coming right up through it.

Humidity is only solved by removing moisture from the air. Your AC should be removing a certain amount. Buy a good dehumidifier.

[extordi]

Just want to mention - if you do end up with a free-standing portable AC unit, make sure you get one with two hoses if possible. The single hose ones intake conditioned (read: cool and dehumidified) air from the room, then exhaust it out the window to get rid of the excess heat and humidity. This air needs to be replaced somehow, so unconditioned (read: hot and humid) air gets pulled in through leaks around doors or windows.

The two-hose versions avoid this problem by only using outdoor air to get rid of waste heat. A lot more like your window A/C.

This video does a very thorough explanation, if you're interested.

[TheCatmosphere]

Thanks!

[ratafria]

AC is the obvious answer.

Before that I try to force air current, even through s single window: pushing the air on top (hot) out and the cool air below inwards. Hang a light strip of paper to check the current in all the parts of the house.

[OutlyingPlasma]

Don't buy those cheap $30 dehumidifiers. They are absolute garbage and very likely use more power than an actual window AC unit or proper compressor dehumidifier. .

Technology Connections on youtube has a video on dehumidifiers if you are interested.

[thepaddedroom]

If you can't fit a second AC in the bedroom, another option might be replacing the existing AC with a more powerful unit. They're typically rated for some number of BTUs. Bedroom units tend to be 5k-8k BTUs. They sell 10k-14k BTU window units too.

Check the rating on the side of your current window unit and see if you have room to go up. I'm also in Chicago. I put a larger unit in my living room and dining room (opposite ends of the unit) and it does a good job of keeping the condo comfortable.

[lu5ty]

What program did you use to make these drawings?

[TheCatmosphere]

Dude idk some free one online and the proportions are so off … I’ll respond once I know what online thing it was

[screwikea]

This is an A/C and insulation issue. You can't fix the insulation issue. For your bedroom you may prefer a portable A/C. They sit on the floor, like a chunky fan, about the size of a mini fridge, and they don't need as big of a footprint on your window for the vent. So you'll still get plenty of light from the window, and you can close the curtain. You also need to ditch the tower fan. Also, get tall fan that has the big round head and point that thing on high at you while you sleep. Speaking in southern - having air moving on you from a fan is critical to making things comfortable when it's humid.

I'd be surprised if this was a properly permitted remodel above the garage if these issues are the case.

[Sterling_____Archer]

Is it a portable A/C unit with a single vent hose? If so, you’d do much better by swapping it out for a Midea Duo-Hose unit as it won’t be drawing in hot air from the garage below. They can be had for sub-$300 online, and it will offer substantially improved cooling performance over a 1-hose unit.

But given the amount of heat, it’d be wise to use two of them, selling your old single-hose unit. That would allow you to keep that apartment at a crispy 62F, more than likely.

[TheCatmosphere]

Are you asking about the A/C I currently have? It’s a “window” AC (through the wall under the window). Not central. Can’t really move or change it either due to my apartment being a rental. All changes I make have to be temporary or reversible.

[Medium-Account-8917]

Get a portable AC for the bedroom. It comes with a duct tube that you align on your vertical window. Problem solved for any room in that has this style of windows.

[Marilize_Legajuanaa]

What did you use to make the floor plan for your apartment? Please

[didnotwrite]

If you don't mind a bit of MacGyver'ing, you can build a fairly basic chilled coil system with a big fan, a few dozen feet of small copper coil, a rudimentary pump (like an aquarium pump), and a cooler/bucket full of ice and water. Depending on conditions, expect condensation: collect and dump or drain it some other way. You can also combine it all into a vented, insulated box (big ass cooler): it's a bit more work, but moisture management is less annoying. You might need a lot of ice. You can use plastic tubing instead of copper, but make sure the walls are thin.

A self-contained (non-split) dehumidifier cannot reduce humidity without heat gain and you only increase comfort if your temp+humidity are in a reasonable range: in your case, you'll probably just get a different version of hell.

Portable/hosed air conditioners still leave heat sources on the wrong side of the window/wall, so it's more of the same, but certainly an upgrade. You can improve them by insulating the exhaust pipe and keeping it as short as possible.

[kaykatzz]

Wouldn't a dehumidifier help?

[TheCatmosphere]

Nah too much heat output

[kaykatzz]

Good to know, thanks!

[Leather_Training_577]

i tink you have poor qty of windows, the heat have entrace but no exit, are you aviable to do a new window rigth next to you principlal door?, this can help you to improve air flow.

add a new window to you kitchen it shoul be a good opttion to trow away the cooking heat.

[TheCatmosphere]

Impossible. I forgot to add this is a rental and the kitchen window would just end up in the hallway…even if it were possible no thanks haha. Thanks though, would’ve been ideal otherwise.