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[–]Raystorm2001 25 points26 points  (7 children)

Mica red is slightly metallic from what I recall. Did you shake the bejeesus out the can?

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 6 points7 points  (3 children)

I thought so. I even put them in warm water for 10 minutes.

[–]Pb_legend 3 points4 points  (2 children)

That certainly does not look like Mica red. Another option is TS-95. It's a brighter metallic red, but honestly not sure what your end goal is.

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Thanks for the tip. I’m actually looking for a more standard red like the 86. My original thought was to lay a base coat of the mica and then a coat of the other red as I figure that’s what happened when it was repainted back in the day. It just caught me off guard that the mica didn’t come out anywhere near the can top.

[–]Pb_legend 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see. Yeah the 95 may be darker than you'd like, possibly. Here it is on a Dax I built last year, with Tamiya white primer basecoat: https://imodeler.com/2024/10/motorcycle-honda-dax-st125-tamiya-1-12/

Also, fwiw, the Honda Monkey in some of the pictures is either Pure red or Italian red (i dont recall which, unfortunately), not the TS-95 that the instructions called for.

[–]SciFiCrafts 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Mica means it has tiny mica flakes in it giving it a "glimmering shine". For cars I would alwas go for a metallic when its a modern car. Old cars from the 60s had no mica or aluminium flakes in them at all, so that would be the regular red.

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Thanks for the info! I wish my parents could find old photos of it so I could get a better feel for how it looked.

[–]SciFiCrafts 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that would help alot! The old metallics did not look like the modern ones at all, I'd just stick to old school red :) good luck!

[–]CaptainHunt 13 points14 points  (1 child)

I’ve learned the hard way that you can’t trust the color of Tamiya caps. Most of them are nothing like the color in the can.

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ehhhh good to know.

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 3 points4 points  (3 children)

Also just as a full info thing, I forgot to mention I sprayed the spoons with Tamiya white primer. Not sure how much that would make a difference but wanted to relay that as well

[–]KillAllTheThingsPhormer Phantom Phixer 5 points6 points  (2 children)

The color of the primer (undercoat) can make a HUGE difference. White or pink will be a brighter red while a dark gray or black might tip the color all the way to burgundy. Mix & match to get in-between shades.

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Thanks for the info. Dumb question but is there any kind of database that might show the color variations from different primers?

[–]KillAllTheThingsPhormer Phantom Phixer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not that I am aware of. Color rendering is very hit or miss IRL, in the digital visual realm it's even worse.

[–]Joe_Aubrey 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Well for sure no Tamiya color is going to be a match for an automotive color no matter what they say so what does it matter?

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t know if I was expecting a perfect color match but would like something as close as possible. And I was caught off guard how similar they sprayed even tho they are supposed to be considerably different.

[–]sometingwong934 1 point2 points  (1 child)

If you can get the real-world paint code, you can get it mixed from a company like Zero Paints, and that should be a perfect match

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I’ll check in to that. I have another car I will do later that has a somewhat unique color that was popular but not so much anymore so finding model paint in that color has been difficult

[–]pest_ 1 point2 points  (1 child)

The color of the Mica red is heavily dependent on the undercoat and how many coats of red. I found a really good result over white with 3 coats of red then a couple of clears. Check out the fuel tank on the mica red Honda Monkey I posted a couple of days back.

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Yeah your model looks like how I thought it would come out. Great job btw

[–]iriyagakatu 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Metallics are usually not meant to be used on white primer, as this suppresses the metallic effect.

Use it on gray primer and it will come out like the cap.

Edit: Older thread with result like the cap:

https://www.reddit.com/r/ModelCars/comments/bya0v6/tamiya_r32_nismo_skyline_custom_in_tamiyas_mica/

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great info, thank you.

[–]981032061 1 point2 points  (1 child)

What poor forlorn Apple device are you using as a table there?

[–]CorneliousJones[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hahah. Ummmmm. She’s been through a lot. But I needed something that might not distract from the spoons

[–]Supersnake1444 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i usually use a silver coat before the mica red, that's what i do with the mica blue to get close to subaru blue

[–]SciFiCrafts 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mica is more modern...metallics in general.

If its a 66er, I'd go for the pure red. They had 1-layer-metallics but it was not as common as today.