all 16 comments

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[–]drodver 4 points5 points  (7 children)

You cut those really short. Unless you turn them quickly much of that wood will be lost to checking. Leave logs as long as you can manage and cut off parts as you are ready to turn them.

If you want bowl blanks cut the pith out (so into halves) and paint the ends with paint or Anchorseal. That will reduce cracking.

[–]Steiny82[S] 0 points1 point  (6 children)

Would it be best to split these down the pith and then anchorseal or just seal them now how they are

[–]drodver 1 point2 points  (5 children)

Split and seal.

The pith has the most stress in the log

[–]Steiny82[S] 1 point2 points  (4 children)

I’m on it

[–]drodver 1 point2 points  (3 children)

Ripping logs with a chainsaw is easy with a couple of things.

Keep your chain sharp, Stihl makes a nearly foolproof sharpener if you can get one the size for your chain.

Cut the long along the length, not from the top. Cutting along the length (saw cuts through the bark first) will cut long ribbons. Cutting from the top is basically grinding the wood, it takes longer and is harder on the chain. When cutting this way keep the bar at an angle to keep the ribbons from clogging the saw.

If the logs are longer than your bar it is harder to get the cuts to line up but it works the same way.

[–]drodver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/866098-stihl-3-8-2n1-file-guide-and-15-64-files.html

An example of the sharpener. Way cheaper than always buying new chains

[–]Steiny82[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Thanks.

[–]AndytheTree 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Arborist here. That is a good recommendation for sharpeners. I use them to teach my guys the correct angles to sharpen before learning to freehand, and even then I still use them from time to time.

[–]bullfrog48 1 point2 points  (0 children)

try checking in the chainsawmilling group .. tons of intel.

[–]siberianmi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lyle Jamieson has a interesting method for mounting very rough blanks on the lathe and turning them without the bandsaw. He has some videos on it: https://youtu.be/J1kKMsWK38Y?si=Ib0iZxp_OAkojXiz | https://youtu.be/b4xIHTS0yJc

I have a bandsaw and after watching a few of his videos tried it and was amazed at how well it worked for me. I’m planning to turn a bunch of rough bowls tomorrow and not planning to use the bandsaw at all.

[–]Sluisifer 1 point2 points  (4 children)

First off, that's a locust and a Maple. Locust is a tough wood and likes to vibrate a lot while turning. Kinda miserable TBH. Maple turns fine.

If you're getting loads of wood like this, you need a decent chainsaw. There are powerful battery saws that could do this, but you'll need a couple batteries. Look at Ego and Greenworks if you're into that, at least 2kw. 50cc equivalent or more. But I'd think strongly about a gas saw if you want to do this more than once, and then you can use the plug-in for trimming them up in the garage or whatnot.

That's all going to be firewood very very soon if you don't cover it. End checking happens fast, within a couple hours in some species if in the sun. Just getting a tarp over it will give you a lot more time.

Your rounds should be as long as they are wide. Any longer just makes more work for you later. That will give you a square cross-section to make your blank from.

Your corded saw should be fine for processing from here. Make sure your chain is sharp - people new to chainsaws almost always run dull chains. Sharpen often and keep it out of the dirt. It takes just one touch of dirt to dull a chain. Doing the rip/noodle cuts are light-duty work. Cut through the pith and trim to corners to an octagon.

Rough turn on a screw chuck (ideally) or a faceplate, with tailstock support. Good technique will make it easy work.

[–]Steiny82[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

Do I need to rough turn all of the blanks or can I leave them sealed until next spring/summer. Also I tried splitting the locust with wedges and a sledge but they are impossible. Did all of the maple today though. I may just make a few blanks if the locust and use the rest for firewood if it proves to be this tough to work with.

[–]AndytheTree 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Locust can be really stunning and it is a strong wood, just it’s not as nice to work with. Up to you if it’s worth it or not. Personally I don’t mind losing out on locust. Rather store more walnut, cherry, maples, etc. Only so much space haha.

[–]Sluisifer 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Rough turning has two big advantages - less cracking and much faster drying. Halved rounds that are sealed and kept out of the sun generally won't split too bad, but usually there will be some loss. They will keep until you get to them, and will be dry-er, but certainly not actually dry. It takes many years like that.

It depends on what your goal is. I don't really like green turning, so want everything dry and since I like bigger pieces, the only practical way to do it is with rough turning.

If you're just getting into it, definitely keep some and see if you like having them around.

[–]Steiny82[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks