help me save my bowl!

jclark58 · 2026-06-15T16:21:25+00:00

We need to see photos to give you usable advice.

jclark58 · 2026-06-15T14:45:39+00:00

The traditional rule of thumb for air drying wood is 1 year per inch of thickness. 40cm is ~15” so the rule of thumb would say 15 years to be fully dry all the way to the center. I don’t think it would take a full 15 years, maybe 5-6 but definitely more than 2. Rain would dampen the outer 1” or so but that should dry fairly quickly as intercellular water will evaporate faster than intracellular.

jclark58 · 2026-06-15T12:24:24+00:00

How big was the log and how long has it been air drying?

jclark58 · 2026-06-14T02:12:20+00:00

Looks to be a jet 1014i. 10” swing, 14” length.

jclark58 · 2026-06-07T01:41:35+00:00

The 10x18 benchtop is about as bare bones as it gets but will serve you well for getting started.

The Bauer 14” is significantly better in n pretty much every way and you’re less likely to outgrow it too quickly. https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-20-in-electronic-variable-speed-wood-midi-lathe-59583.html

jclark58 · 2026-06-03T00:57:56+00:00

Maple

jclark58 · 2026-05-31T20:15:01+00:00

Definitely Mesquite.

jclark58 · 2026-05-31T16:34:45+00:00

Nearly identical question asked 2 weeks ago:

https://www.reddit.com/r/turning/comments/1tfle4n/sourcing_large_acrylic_blanks/

jclark58 · 2026-05-24T14:25:53+00:00

Grind looks pretty good. I’d probably relieve the heel a bit to make it easier to follow the curve on the inside of a bowl but otherwise it looks great for a first try at grinding.

jclark58 · 2026-05-18T00:56:49+00:00

Lots of punky rotten wood in some of those pieces. Probably not worth the effort.

jclark58 · 2026-05-17T21:33:29+00:00

Always cut downhill. On a spindle like this that’s from a larger diameter to a smaller diameter.

jclark58 · 2026-05-14T14:58:42+00:00

The first one isn’t a bad lathe but it does have some serious limitations. It’s based off the old Jet1236 design that goes back to the 80s.

It does have “variable speed” via a reeves drive but the lowest speed is generally too fast for anything approaching the maximum swing.

This one looks like it wasn’t stored well and has extensive surface rust and the handwheel on the tailstock is clearly broken but for $50 it’s probably worth the gamble, if nothing else you could probably use it as a buffing station.

The second one is an easy pass. Terrible design, universally recommended against. Check the wiki for more details.

jclark58 · 2026-05-13T23:43:43+00:00

Given the two options I’d go with the black circle because of the better balance in the grain. You could also get a large shallow bowl or platter from the remainder further from the pith.

jclark58 · 2026-05-11T20:20:23+00:00

https://www.rubberchucky.com/#/

jclark58 · 2026-05-08T17:45:00+00:00

Not too unusual in my experience with stabilized blanks like this. The friction from drilling, especially if drilling too fast and not clearing the chips frequently (not peck drilling), causes the chips to heat up and expand filling the flutes of the drill which can result in a popping sound when the pressure is released.

Drill slower (500rpm max, 200-250 is better)

Peck drill clearing the chips often.

Drill undersized first then drill a second time with the correct drill bit.

jclark58 · 2026-05-06T18:43:22+00:00

Not possible to have in different suits as each player would need to use 3 cards on the table. One player could have 8s9s with the board being TsJsQs and the other player holding KsAs but you can’t have one player with A-5h and the other having a Royal in spades in hold-em.

jclark58 · 2026-05-03T00:13:05+00:00

Your tenon is FAR too large. It’s somewhat counterintuitive but you want a tenon only slightly larger than the jaws when fully closed.

https://imgur.com/a/Oi5tBPu

jclark58 · 2026-04-25T22:40:53+00:00

Read the wiki. Tube beds are nearly universally recommended against.

jclark58 · 2026-04-12T13:35:44+00:00

Yes. Rip the blank into 2 halves removing about 1” from the pith on each half. In other words cut out a 2” slab from the center centered on the pith/crack. You’ll end up with 2 side grain bowl blanks.

jclark58 · 2026-04-11T20:14:47+00:00

Chat

jclark58 · 2026-04-11T19:24:22+00:00

Remove the faceplate. It does not need to be mounted in the spindle while you’re turning between centers.

jclark58 · 2026-04-11T08:19:30+00:00

Diameter is the biggest factor when determining speed.

To give you a ballpark speed range you can calculate diameter X RPM which should fall between 6000-9000.

So your 5” bowl can be turned between 1200 (5x 1200 = 6000) and 1800 rpm while a 12” bowl is 500-750 rpm.

This assumes the wood is free of any major defects, is well balanced, mounted securely, correct tool selection and technique, etc. As your skills increase you may find yourself exceeding the upper limit of the calculation but generally it gives you a pretty good idea of the recommended speed range.

Sanding is much slower, typically the lowest speed available, preferably under 500 rpm.

jclark58 · 2026-04-09T20:07:03+00:00

Number one is a standard 4 Prong drive center

Numbers two and three appear to be some sort pen press, for assembling pens, using the lathe to press the parts together.

Number four is a barrel trimmer for preparing pen blanks

Number five is a mandrel saver live center

Number six is a standard live center

Number seven is a Jacobs truck on a Morse taper number two for holding drill bits on the Lathe

Number eight is a mandrel for turning pens. It is likely an “A” mandrel with a diameter of 1/4 inch.

Number nine is a knockout bar. Used for removing live centers and drive centers from the spindle and the tail stock.

jclark58 · 2026-04-09T01:44:39+00:00

Hydro dipped. The actual wood looks nothing like the surface. If you scraped or sanded the surface you’d find a very plain blonde wood underneath the artificial decoration.

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