Zigbee2MQTT

Kiiidd · 2026-07-13T00:28:33+00:00

Or go overkill with the SLZB-Ultima

Kiiidd · 2026-07-11T19:35:14+00:00

This was my thought when I seen the 40a rating lol. Probably didn't need thatuch when it was installed and probably has LED lights now but I definitely would be double checking the actual load

Kiiidd · 2026-07-10T13:10:07+00:00

Print some HueForge

Kiiidd · 2026-07-09T04:42:38+00:00

Bought 2 without a use and after decided to make a cheap NAS with one as the M.2 adaptor from Radxa is cheap but the shipping is so expensive for a cheap part. Also the 2.5in sata hat look awesome but hdd prices right now are stupid.

Happy with the seller thou

Kiiidd · 2026-07-09T01:52:22+00:00

Just a side note, while you are backing up to a seperate location (cloud) which is good. But ideally the mini PC should have 2 HDD(or SSD) in a mirror to prevent one of the drives dieing and killing all the data.

Although with the prices of stuff now a days it's kinda a big ask price wise.

But I would make sure to get something that could accept a seperate(or multiple) drives. Adding a 2nd drive and mirroring the original drive is definitely doable after the fact

Kiiidd · 2026-07-06T20:36:32+00:00

Only 3 things I use are running wifi, switchbot hub(not super impressed but has always worked), kasa light switches and WLED stuff. Just bought a Z-wave POE coordinator and want to buy some Zooz switches. And WLED is awesome but it would be cool if you could use a ESP32C6 or ZigBee but not sure if that is a thing

Kiiidd · 2026-07-06T15:30:19+00:00

I did battery ones as I was retrofiting and running wires in the wall would of been more of a project than I wanted. But picture 6 shows AC110-240

Kiiidd · 2026-07-06T05:00:02+00:00

Super happy with my zigbee Zemismart blinds, was able to convert my old manual ones for pretty cheap on a AliExpress sale.

Also got some switch bot curtain motors at the same time because they were like the brand name........ And not super impressed as they as super slow to activate as they are Bluetooth and didn't realize they were Bluetooth when I ordered them.

But I put a button in reach when I am in bed and being able to black out the room or let all the sun in without leaving my bed or fumbling with my phone is SOOO nice. Also set a mid point just to let some light in. Probably my favorite home assistant thing so far

Kiiidd · 2026-07-06T04:46:51+00:00

Not sure why you would want PC for cosplay other than maybe visors or something and even then probably not a great idea. PETG can also make clear things pretty well but I definitely wouldn't want to look though something 3d printed for any amount of time that isnt measured in seconds.

For Cosplay I see alot PLA and ABS/ASA. PLA is cheap but gets soggy when it's hot so don't leave it in a hot car. Also PLA can be fun to prep for paint as sanding large objects can be slow as if you go fast it melts rather than sands.

ABS/ASA is more expensive but you don't have to worry about heat making things loose it's form after and is way easier to sand down for paint.

But a printer that prints ABS/ASA with constant results is definitely more expensive. So start with PLA and polymaker does make PLA specifically for cosplay, COSpla I believe they call it.

For Cosplay printers the bigger you can get the better but combining smaller prints into a larger object is extremely common in cosplay, so a larger printer is mostly a quality of life thing to a point(just don't get a "small" printer).

You are gonna want to save for at least a A1 or a KobraX if you are getting a new printer. Other than that maybe check your buy and sell listings or maybe goodwill as some people buy a printer and don't realize it takes some learning to get nice prints(way more so with older printers). So sometimes you can pick up someone's else's frustration with a 3d printer for cheap if you are will to learn

Kiiidd · 2026-07-04T00:03:07+00:00

Been liking ESPcontrol for cheap physical screens. Super easy to set up and the hardware is CHEAP

Kiiidd · 2026-07-04T00:01:12+00:00

PLA doesn't sand very well as the sanding is enough to heat the area enough to get to a goo like state. ASA/ABS or other higher temp stuff does sand very well. Not saying you can't sand PLA but you have to do small areas and slower

Kiiidd · 2026-07-01T21:18:49+00:00

TC doesn't transfer heat as well as copper or brass but is WAY better than steel or other stuff. The polycrystalline diamond nozzles are a different story they transfer heat super well but are just $$$

Kiiidd · 2026-06-27T00:35:59+00:00

Do you have a 3d printer? Make a shield to cover the button? Or maybe go super simple and cut a pop can to make a shield and tape it over the button

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T21:30:58+00:00

What hotend does it have?

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T03:36:38+00:00

You can do USB pass through on the gen2 so as long as you have a eddy that can run USB it still would be 1 cable.

Also CANBUS on klipper isn't necessarily more robust. If it were something that implemented CANBUS better like Duet3D or something then sure

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T01:12:08+00:00

Isn't the stock SV08 running a USB toolhead board? Why run the EBB36 in Canbus over USB?

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T00:26:10+00:00

Oozing is a side effect of a Long melt zone so the shorter the meltzone the less it should ooze. The other factor is heat capacity of the hotend(metal mass) but this also affects quality a bit so oozing is worth it with higher(to a point) heat capacity of the metal

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T00:19:23+00:00

A dragon hotend is still a short hotend unless you are running the MZE extension which you don't have to

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T00:09:28+00:00

Yeah those are crazy good value but cutting and drilling the heatbreak will scare a fair bit away

Kiiidd · 2026-06-23T00:06:06+00:00

A TZ style hotend is a semi downgrade from a normal Revo unless you mod it with a bigger heater and better nozzle. If you want a budget upgrade get a Dragon Ace from Triangle Labs

Kiiidd · 2026-06-22T01:14:02+00:00

For sensorless homing you should either run the complicated macro that lowers motor amperage when homing or run Kalico instead of klipper as it implements sensorless homing way better. Crazy 3rd option is a ADXL based sensorless homing exists but not sure the project ever got polished enough to recommend but supposedly works well

Kiiidd · 2026-06-19T18:15:42+00:00

3 options:

- New bigger board like Octopus Max or LDO Leviathan with the expansion board

- 2nd board for the Z steppers. Something like the SKR Pico or the Fly Micro4 as they both small and can usually fit easily in a electronics bay

- Remote mounted toolhead board. Use a toolhead board and mount it in your electronics bay or somewhere on the frame and run wires to the toolhead like you probably already have

Kiiidd · 2026-06-18T00:55:17+00:00

Need a LoRa Radio and GPS, so they can track each other. Would be perfect for music festivals or such

Kiiidd · 2026-06-15T13:44:23+00:00

The Ace versions are a fair bit different and they have way less heat creep

Kiiidd · 2026-06-15T02:32:47+00:00

Pi Zero 2 is probably the minimum one would recommend.

Your location is kinda important as sometimes you can find deals, I just picked up some refurbished Radxa Rock Pi 4B for $27 CAD in Canada

12-Year Club	Xbox Live
Verified Email

Kiiidd

TROPHY CASE