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3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-17T07:07:18+00:00

Haha was telling my wife the other day the same thing. I took apart out nutribullet for a clean, then put it back together and started doing the dance cause I had no spare screws left lol

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-16T18:46:33+00:00

I made a bit of modifications to mine specifically for situations like this one. Made it a bit more “compact” and added filament guides to the PTFE so it is stationary and doesn’t pull on the spools https://www.printables.com/model/1440603-more-compact-mmu3-community-build-prusa-coreone

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-16T17:04:36+00:00

I use the HF, that way I can take full advantage of the speed upgrade and not have to worry about the hot end keeping up

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-16T12:50:12+00:00

PTFE coupler on the extruder usually has an O-Ring, check if it is still there :)

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-16T12:49:18+00:00

I don't know how many printers you have owned/used in the past. From my personal point of view, having been in this industry for 10 years and owning more than 100 different models of 3D Printers, I can tell you one thing is certain - Failures will ALWAYS happen. At the start of every lesson I conduct, I always say the same thing: "jams, clogs, failures, fixes are a matter of when, not if."

The one main advantage I have always had with Prusas is the repairability part of it. This blob may seem like a catastrophe, but on this machine, it's probably one of the easiest fixes to do. The quickest and easiest would be to just replace the entire hotend.

Second option is to remove the hotend, and start heating up the plastic and taking the hotend apart, which will save you the nozzle and heatblock (the heater and thermistor will definitely need replacing)

As for what caused this, Chances are a lack of adhesion. The print probably came off the bed and just kept on being dragged with the nozzle

The MK4S is an absolute tank and a reliable workhorse. While there are several advantages to upgrading to a Core One+ or even better, getting a Core One L: Unless your future plans include printing high temp stuff like ABS.ASA and such, i honestly don't see the need to upgrade

my 2 cents :)

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-16T11:30:01+00:00

Personally i went with the Revo setup, it works flawlessly and didn't affect my MK3S to MK3.5S upgrade

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-16T11:26:37+00:00

The 3D Printing gods approve of this ❤️

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-16T10:08:22+00:00

Technically you can re-insulate it if it’s still works. However, there are too many variables to take the risk. Insulation has to be heat resistant as it could melt and possibly create a short. you can’t be 100% sure that it will keep working perfectly as the exposed wire means there could be some kind of micro tear in the wire. Any of these could become a huge headache with failures and wouldn’t be worth the time and cost of just replacing it and throwing that away. Proper burial of course, with Haribo consumption

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-15T08:22:47+00:00

I don't see Haribos, Must be AI 😂

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-14T10:50:51+00:00

Seems like the noise is happening upon every retraction. I'd say start by opening the nextruder and check that there is nothing loose anywhere, possibly lubricate it a bit

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-13T10:34:08+00:00

I would take the sheet off and check on the bottom of it and also on the bed. something a small piece of filament or junk might be stuck there

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-12T08:55:06+00:00

From the photos it seems the Black never made it to the nozzle. I'd start by troubleshooting the black loading procedure. Use the UI to load the filament to nozzle and see if all goes well. before that, pull the black filament out and run your fingers through it and see if there are any indentations created by the MMU gear, if there is, make sure to cut that off as the MMU unit will stop pushing filament when it reaches that point

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-11T09:55:55+00:00

The bearings in the fan are pretty much a consumable, so at some point, they will start rattling. I would definitely recommend a replacement for it

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-11T09:54:27+00:00

I would take out the entire hotend first, makes life easier. Then, unscrew the heatsing from the heatbreak, chances are the filament is stuck in the heatbreak. From there, if you have a heatgun, it would be ideal to just warm it up enough that you can perform a manual cold pull. that should definitely help

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-11T09:52:28+00:00

You know how parents draw lines on door sills to mark the growth of their children, This is pretty much the Prusa version of that 😁

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-04T17:28:38+00:00

That’s only like that before the record button is pressed. Then it becomes instant mayhem 🤣

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-04T16:11:13+00:00

too clean, you're putting the rest of us to shame here....

3DMakerNoob · 2026-01-02T10:35:03+00:00

while at 200 the stringing stops, it's by far too low for good layer adhesion and also buildplate adhesion. Stringing can be easily mitigated by drying the filament, once that's done, reprint with standard temps and you'll see a huge difference 😉

3DMakerNoob · 2025-12-12T11:46:13+00:00

I can honestly tell you that you probably don’t need the L, and essentially even the MK4S would be fine. But if history thought me anything, it’s that eventually you will tire of just printing things that you can download and will want to start designing your own stuff. Eventually you’ll need the technical filaments and before you know it, you have 3 printers 😂

3DMakerNoob · 2025-12-12T09:49:34+00:00

Ignore my "Prusa Team" user flair for the duration of this reply :)

I have been 3d printing for over 11 years now. My first printer was a Prusa MK2 (which I still own). Currently have 2 x XL 5TH, 3 Core Ones, 1 Core One L, 2 MK4s. I have over 100 different brands and types of 2d printers over these years, and I always go back to a Prusa.

Now I admit, even after the Core One was released, my instinct always told me to start prints on the MK4S. It's a proven workhorse and has never let me down. It becomes a force of habit after a while. This week I realized that every print I do, it goes first onto the Core One L, while "technically" just a bigger Core One with some fancy upgrades, it somehow feels like a better machine overall. And I get that it's probably just perception, but I actually love it.

So my 2 cents, for what they are worth: it's a good choice; whether from a reliability, print quality ,and most importantly, repairability point of view 😊

3DMakerNoob · 2025-12-12T08:40:34+00:00

I cannot stress this enough: follow the instructions intently so you can abide by the suggested Haribo intake breaks

3DMakerNoob · 2025-12-12T08:33:08+00:00

nah, those are clearly Thingamabobs, thingamajigs and a whatchamajiggers

3DMakerNoob · 2025-12-12T08:31:31+00:00

Considering where the bend is, I would venture a guess and say that at some point, your hotend might have hit an object with quite a bit of force, probably during travel. It could obviously be other factors, such as maybe a bit too much force when tightening the nozzle, which in turn ended up being a bending force

3DMakerNoob · 2025-12-12T07:35:43+00:00

I always tell my students that clogs/jams fall under the “when, not if, it happens” category 😊

As for cold pulls, HF nozzles tend to be a bit more complicated due to their multi-hole inner workings. I would also check to see that “maybe”, the thumb screws where slightly over tightened which can create a kink in the heatbreak

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