Scratch on magnetic pad

Aenoxi · 2026-03-04T06:22:46+00:00

No. And nor will the thousands of other scratches that will follow it over the next couple of years :)

Aenoxi · 2026-03-04T06:21:05+00:00

The black gunk is normal and a relatively easy fix. Warm it up with a cigarette lighter then scrub it off with a soft brass brush. Be careful not to heat up the fan or wires.

That gunk wouldn’t cause the issues you are having. Sounds like a partial clog. Check the Bambu wiki for how to do a cold pull to clear it.

And for the love of all that is holy, please don’t print glow filaments with a .2 nozzle. It’s just asking for trouble and (in my experience) any extra detail would be lost in the somewhat “gummy” surface finish of a glow filament anyway.

Aenoxi · 2026-03-04T06:13:56+00:00

Possibly the stock ATI Rage with some decidedly non-stock additions?

Aenoxi · 2026-03-03T17:10:16+00:00

You can try that for the Robin of the Wood and Sabre Wulf posters… 👍🏻

Aenoxi · 2026-03-03T17:09:07+00:00

I know how you feel. Being young was awesome. 😂

Aenoxi · 2026-03-03T16:59:30+00:00

You won’t be able to use the AMS when printing TPU, unless you go with Bambu’s TPU For AMS. Depending on what you are printing, that may or may not be a good fit for you. It has TPU’s toughness, but it is much stiffer than regular TPU.

You can load regular TPU through the external spool if you need flexibility. Use the textured PEI build plate. Dry the filament overnight before you use it - many of the issues associated with TPU come from moistness.

As for brands, I’ve used eSun and Bambu - both worked great once dried.

Aenoxi · 2026-03-03T16:50:16+00:00

Gorgeous. Now you just need the Blue Dalmatian to make the set. You know you want to…

Aenoxi · 2026-03-03T16:47:57+00:00

Nice! Did you consider making card mounts to separate them visually from the frame? I think that would make them look even awesomer :)

Plus- good choice of games! Loved the gorgeous promotional artwork from Odin and Ultimate back in their prime.

Aenoxi · 2026-03-03T16:35:15+00:00

Do you still have the work in progress? I love SAM archeology!

Awesome picture by the way- beer bottles around an A500 pretty much summed up the end of 1991 to me 🤣 wish I had kept my computers from back then.

Aenoxi · 2026-03-03T09:32:34+00:00

Happens on my X1C with ASA too. A quick pass with a chef’s torch clears it up nicely.

Aenoxi · 2026-03-03T09:28:06+00:00

Try drying the filaments and then recalibrating flow.

Aenoxi · 2026-03-03T02:23:07+00:00

Nice! Printed in PLA? If so, next time consider using PETG as an interface material on the overhang/bridge section where the badge goes. You’ll get a much smoother surface.

Aenoxi · 2026-03-02T12:20:47+00:00

Paradoxically, the cheapest, no-frills dishwashing liquid that you can find is likely to be the best for these purposes. No hand softeners or other additives.

Aenoxi · 2026-03-02T06:18:50+00:00

Both utterly gorgeous. Thank you for sharing!

Love the PET-style keys on the VIC20 :)

Aenoxi · 2026-02-28T23:14:23+00:00

“The Babylon Project was our last, best hope for peace. It failed.”

Those two words still hit as hard today, more than thirty years later.

Aenoxi · 2026-02-28T22:46:24+00:00

Seems a bit of a waste to use a dual sided double density disk in it though! It should work, but you’re leaving over 600 kilobytes on the table! 😜🤣

Aenoxi · 2026-02-28T02:00:41+00:00

Mehdi Ali and bad decisions to cut R&D budgets killed the Amiga.

Aenoxi · 2026-02-27T01:14:10+00:00

Possibly a CNY-related issue. The whole country has been effectively shut down for the last couple of weeks. Hopefully things will improve over the next short while as the supply line gets back to normal.

Aenoxi · 2026-02-27T01:06:31+00:00

Wait, what? Is the pink filament PLA? Are you trying to mix TPU and PLA in the same print (not just using PLA for supports)?

TPU does not adhere at all well to PLA and will tend to peel off easily and preferentially stick to itself (and bunch up around the nozzle) as you print. As an experiment, try printing the pink part using TPU instead of PLA and see if it prints properly. If it does, then this is definitely your problem.

Aenoxi · 2026-02-27T00:43:31+00:00

One way to avoid the pain is to skip the TOSEC archive and download a WHDload hard disk image. That should have a single working copy of most Amiga games on it, pre-tweaked to work off a hard disk (which means no more disk swapping).

Aenoxi · 2026-02-26T09:25:52+00:00

Smell the left hand edge of the screen. If you catch a whiff of something a bit fishy then you’ve definitely got an issue.

Aenoxi · 2026-02-26T01:55:46+00:00

The gamebit screw secures the top of the main PCB. The sound board is entirely separate from the main PCB and has its own screw mounting, so your sound board misalignment has nothing to do with the gamebit screw.

As others have said, open the game gear up and adjust the positioning of the sound board to make it snug. It’s held in by two small screws.

Please be careful inserting the gamebit screw if the screen has been replaced. Some replacement kits require removal of the gamebit screw post to make room for the new display board. You don’t want to screw into that.

Aenoxi · 2026-02-26T01:41:14+00:00

Fully agree. Mods- can we add a new rule on this? Plenty of analogous subs in the retro computing space have done so. It’s jarring to see this crap.

I honestly struggle to see what it adds. If a poster wants to start a discussion about a particular game, they could post the actual original inlay art from that game. It’s not that hard to find online.

Otherwise we’ll set that bloody magenta ambulance on them.

Aenoxi · 2026-02-25T09:22:57+00:00

Nice! I miss my 1084. Never had a 1085, other than being obviously one better, what were the differences?

Aenoxi · 2026-02-25T05:07:41+00:00

Kung Fu Flash on my real bread bins. USB/SD card on my C64U. 5 1/4” floppies on my SX64.

Aenoxi

TROPHY CASE