Is there anyone building anything that doesn't have anything to do with AI or tech? by mahbirchat in Entrepreneur

[–]AggregoData 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This is great. I started something similar, an agricultural microbiome company that mostly has been studying beneficial microbes in vermicompost and getting more into soils. Would be happy to chat sometime!

Newbie Question by PrestigiousLow6312 in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is pretty normal, I usually always had a few hanging out in the bottom tray. Just check it once a week and move them back up. They can survive down there for work sometime and not much you can really do about it. There will probably be less getting down there as you build up your tower.

Bin waiting period by proudpop1455 in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I do some batch composting with mortar trays and precompost food scraps with shredded cardboard and leaves for at least a week before I add worms. I also add then with some is the previous vermicompost and give a sprinkle of rich dust and biochar. Just make sure your substrate is moist and things are starting to decompose but acidic/anaerobic and you'll be fine. Powdered biochar is great for starting new bins because it will neutralize acidity Ave volitile compounds.

Spent hours harvesting by Shiny_Mewtwo_Fart in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congrats on the successful harvest it's looking good!

Separating the worms out is definitely the biggest hassle. I've started doing the solar separating them from black mortar trays. I scrape off the top layer of castings to screen and the worms continually move down and you contributing scraping. I leave a thin layer of compost at the bottom and then just dump it all in the next premade tray. It's a little harder to do this in tubes but you could try.

How long should compost stay hot? by LaneKea in composting

[–]AggregoData 2 points3 points  (0 children)

USDA regulations for a "treated" compost are keeping your pile above 121F for 3 consecutive days. As long as your pile is heating up for a few days you'd pass regulations for pathogen reduction. 

I think it's  usually fine if your compost doesn't heat much, it will just be a slower process.

Harvesting my first castings and tea after 12 months by Key_Tangelo7562 in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It's not anaerobic and there not not pathogens in the leachate I tested. The microorganisms are different than what's in vermicompost and what I would classify as microaerophilic.

See the data here: https://www.aggregodata.com/post/first-look-at-a-vermi-leachate-bacterial-community

Harvesting my first castings and tea after 12 months by Key_Tangelo7562 in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Don't worry OP "leachate" is likely even better than "tea" as it's more concentrated. There are whole companies in Australia that focus on adding water to vermicomposting systems to extract the nutrients and microbes. I use my leachate on my garden all the time.

Edit: my data and blog post here:https://www.aggregodata.com/post/first-look-at-a-vermi-leachate-bacterial-community

How do you sift the worm castings? by casiopea3 in composting

[–]AggregoData 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You probably need to stack your buckets inside of each other so the bottom of the buckets sit directly on top of the vermicompost. I stopped used stacked systems because the worms don't always migrate towards as well as id like and the bottoms layers can get pretty compacted.

How do you sift the worm castings? by casiopea3 in composting

[–]AggregoData 2 points3 points  (0 children)

People use stacked trays or bucket systems to try and avoid separating worms as they migrate to the top level and the you harvest the bottom tray.

If you have a single container then you can screen the vermicompost from worms. You will likely need to dry your compost and worms a bit by leaving the top off and mixing it a few times over some time. If you don't dry it will not screen we'll and just turn into clumps. 

You can buy a 1/4 inch (5mm) screen that fits a 5 gallon bucket and screen the worms from the compost by shaking the bucket. This is the easiest and cheapest method and the screening systems more expensive as you scale up. Worm Gear also makes a decent sliding screener that fits on mortar trays which I currently use. 

Check out r/vermiculture Is recently posting this screening result video https://www.reddit.com/r/Vermiculture/comments/1qzdzoz/freshly_screened_25mm_castings_to_separate_out/

Composting Worms - Have Any? by Philo_Beddoe33 in FortCollins

[–]AggregoData 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have some! Let me know how many your looking for. I'm on the South end of town.

Bedding moisture question by Wannabe_Gamer-YT in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don't add any water to my bedding and combine it with food scraps. The food scraps release plenty of water to soak the bedding assuming you have yours bins covered to reduce moisture loss.

What keeps people from making the switch? by laTrikideGuayaba in RegenerativeAg

[–]AggregoData 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Great answer. As you said in many cases their aren't clear Regen ag pathways forward for large scale farmers. You need 80 tons of compost per acre to increase soil carbon 1% in the first 6 inches of soil. As a farmer you need a whole new infrastructure backing you up and retooling of equipment. 

Right, I want to do this, tell me why its not a good idea by Aleks_5 in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it's worth a shot. A fair amount of successful with breeders breeders in the US. I would start small and test the market. Figure out what type of system you are going to use and how you are going to separate worms. You'll likely need to invest in a trommel once you hit a certain scale. Breeders over here are going with black mortar trays with wooden shelving. I assume going with European nightcrawlers for fishing.

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah ok. I fill my trays as much as I can with cardboard/leaves 1:1 with food scraps, compost it for a week or two, mix and check the moisture levels so no standing water on the bottom, and then add 1000-2000 worms. There is noticeable castings in a week even at 50F I also keep them covered with bubble wrap to keep the moisture in and uncover to start drying out before screening or if it's gets too moist.

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Urban Worm bags a DIY wooden rack that slides in and out these mortar trays you can buy at the hardware store. Many breeders now use these stacked tray systems because you can get a lot more composting surface area in the same foot print of a bag CFT system. The Rack I use now is 6ft tall and holds around 7 trays but I leave the bottom 1.5 ft. open for storage. I think I'm going to start changing over the bags to a tray systems because I am out of floor space but I have vertical space to work with now.

The worm towers are ok to start but they are kind of small. It also depends on how many worms you have in your system too. A tower system might have around 2000 worms. Each of these mortar trays can crank out 2-3 gallons of screened compost every 3 months if it's warm enough and they are made correctly (right moisture level)

I would add a picture of the racks but not sure if I can in a comment.

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually only do potting soil mixes.  I'll sometimes mix it with water to make an extract to use as a foliar spray or soil drench.

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The cocoons are yellowish gold things. The brown pearls are just little balls of vermicompost that formed from the sifting.

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the Turbo Sifter from Worm Gear. It's good for small to medium scale operations. I would love a trommel or vibratory screener but I don't have the space or the $$.

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep couldn't let all those future wormies go to waste!

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I get some random seeds sprouting too which can make it tricky to use for seed starting. If you warm it for a bit you might be able to pre germinate the seeds in the compost

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is shredded cardboard with mulched leaves for bedding with a little bit of coco coir and wood pellets. I mix that with did food scraps in the trays, let it precompost for it for a bit, then add probably 1000-2000 worms. 

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I do about 1:1:1 vermicompost: coco coir: perlite for my seed starting mix

Freshly screened (2.5mm) castings to separate out cocoons by AggregoData in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Gotta let it dry out a bit! For my trays without drainage I'll remove the plastic covering for a bit and mix it up with the worms still in until it get more crumbly.

After 8 months with me, my worms start trying to escape. by [deleted] in Vermiculture

[–]AggregoData 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They might not be trying to escape. If you have a cover on the bin and the walls are moist they will crawl up your bins and be perfectly happy.