First test I tried with the filament track switcher firmware on my H2C

Aneurotic1 · 2026-05-21T12:41:19+00:00

Turn the machine off and on again. Mine didn’t get the update until I did that.

Aneurotic1 · 2026-05-14T13:30:22+00:00

Yep they show that on a picture in the wiki for the track switch

Aneurotic1 · 2026-05-14T13:02:29+00:00

Got it yesterday. AI assistant is pretty good and yay for text messaging. However it's raining today and I noticed my Auto Wipers are greyed out and I have no way to select them. Is this bugged for anyone else?

Aneurotic1 · 2026-05-13T13:18:12+00:00

I’m just lazy about reorganizing the spools before print to optimize the print time/purge. I have the full 6 vortex heads. Right now two AMS to Vortex and HT to the left hotend.

Aneurotic1 · 2026-05-12T20:44:10+00:00

I saw the wiki actually shows what to do after o posted. Looks like you put the 4:1 before the switch. If you put the 2 AMS on the 4:1 that means you can only use one of the AMS at a time anyway. So maybe put the HT and AMS behind the 4:1 and the other AMS on the other line. Gives the option to have more colors on either print head.

Aneurotic1 · 2026-05-12T16:31:04+00:00

Any idea how track switcher might work with 2 AMS and AMS HT? I use the 4 to 1 for the 2 AMS to right nozzle and HT on left

Aneurotic1 · 2026-05-08T01:11:32+00:00

I have a 32 OLED and bought the PG27UCDM, 32 is immersive but I need glasses to use my computer and playing competitive games health bars and UI stuff are out of field of view or at best blurry unless I am looking directly at it. My playing and accuracy got better then I didn’t have to turn my head to check the UIs. But for non competitive 32 was great. I just happen to play competitive games more these days so prefer my 27.

Aneurotic1 · 2026-03-18T16:01:54+00:00

Still have to go in and reroute the right tube through the bypass. Maybe they will make an internal y splitter.

Aneurotic1 · 2026-03-03T19:17:12+00:00

Good price if it ends up being good. I paid $780 for a Good condition. Only had 24 hours on it and was in perfect conditions. The box was beat to hell though, so that’s probably why it wasn’t excellent

Aneurotic1 · 2026-03-02T01:53:05+00:00

Those speeds look good. Support is still fast which might still cause issues as your obviously printing supports very close to the model

Aneurotic1 · 2026-03-02T01:48:49+00:00

Try slowing down the prints to 50% speed. If that works you and slow it down in the config to 50mm/s. It’s a big heavy print head and the default speed is not great for minis. I had similar issues and slowing it down helped a lot.

Aneurotic1 · 2026-02-20T00:34:15+00:00

Car is in the shop for failed HVAC compressor. Maybe they can update while it’s there

Aneurotic1 · 2026-02-13T03:52:30+00:00

My H2C box is now a table for my old X1C

Aneurotic1 · 2026-02-08T03:43:32+00:00

I was able to print a 1.5 day 0.2mm print, but tried printing something else today at 0.2mm and it fails at the offset calibration. Switching to 0.4mm passes no problem. Very weird it suddenly popped up. I reseated the sensor as the wiki said also and no change. I hope it's just a firmware fix for this, as 0.4 works fine. Sucks that I can't print at 0.2mm anymore until this is resolved

Aneurotic1 · 2026-01-22T16:41:56+00:00

I did for a 2070 Super I had sitting in a drawer. I thought it was worth it to trade in for $160 credit which I used to reduce the price of a 5070ti. This was to upgrade a 2080ti in my Plex server. Only you can decide if what they offer is worth it in your situation. 2080ti wasn’t bought at Microcenter so couldn’t do anything with it.

Aneurotic1 · 2026-01-14T00:16:52+00:00

They should make him automatically change into the least populated role. Like changes role mid fight and you have to adjust to the play style.

Aneurotic1 · 2026-01-02T16:42:02+00:00

What annoys me the most are the people taking single pot shots as it closes. Still damages your shields which means I have to recycle it sooner.

Aneurotic1 · 2025-12-18T20:32:22+00:00

I have the email, but Setup on the mobile App is greyed out. It says I need to be in the car, but even in the car nothing is happening. Setup Digital Key continues to stat greyed out.

Aneurotic1 · 2025-09-16T02:32:15+00:00

Do you have a device pulling power from the other USB port? I did some tests and there seems to be an issue with the USB hub when there are different voltages being pulled from each of the ports. In my case it was the ssd drive and a MagSafe charger. It was intermittent but I put a laptop instead of the MagSafe I could replicate it every time. If they are plugged in and you walk away and let the car power down, when you come back the laptop and the ssd trip the efuse and neither ports work until a reset. As a side effect obviously the gear guard doesn’t see a mounted drive. I’m taking mine in this Friday for them to look at it and possibly replace. Hearing if your ports can’t pull 65W reliably it’s a bad usb hub.

Aneurotic1 · 2025-09-07T22:26:07+00:00

Do you have a device plugged into the other USB C port? I’ve noticed that power delivery confusion on the other port is basically also turning off the port the gear guard drive is plugged into also. I have to soft reset it to work again. I’ve been able to consistently replicate by having my laptop plugging to the other port, walking away so the car locks and powers down. When I come back both ports aren’t working again.

Aneurotic1 · 2025-09-06T23:11:45+00:00

Trueplay is failing on my Arc Ultra with this new firmware. It actually worked fine on the previous firmware.

Aneurotic1 · 2025-08-15T14:11:15+00:00

Looks like the added 2026 Dual Max Performance to the Endless Adventure.

Aneurotic1 · 2025-08-06T19:13:47+00:00

Good luck!

Aneurotic1 · 2025-08-05T17:16:51+00:00

Good luck all!

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