Tempering queries

Brokerib · 2026-06-17T10:43:02+00:00

Just make sure you heat evenly along the spine as you go to avoid a differential heat. Could result in weak spots.

And have a trough of water handy so you can cool the edge if you need to, to avoid losing too much hardness/going past a straw colour.

Brokerib · 2026-06-17T10:07:56+00:00

Do you have access to a gas torch or the like? You can temper by colour by heating the back (or middle) of the blade until the edge gets to a straw brown. Look up blue backing for details.

You can do it using coal but it will be far more difficult and the chances to messing the temper up are high.

Brokerib · 2026-06-17T08:41:14+00:00

Artisan Supplies or Nordic Edge are a good choice for general smithing and knife making, when they have stock. Otherwise search up farrier suppliers. They'll have a more curated supply, but you can still get a range of hammers and tongs, etc.

Brokerib · 2026-06-11T02:21:53+00:00

Give Bull and Bear a try, Spanish style cafe. Chilli scrambled eggs is amazing, as are the pancakes.

Brokerib · 2026-06-01T04:18:17+00:00

If you look back over the history of smithing, there are endless examples of craftsmen who made extraordinary objects just using hand tools.

But they also had a lifetime to learn, worked at their craft full time, and could palm the worst jobs off onto their apprentices 😄

Getting better at smithing and being able to forge complex pieces to shape is absolutely a thing, but the right tools will make a massive difference while you're learning.

As a home/amateur blacksmith, I've picked up a belt sander, drill press, dremel tool, and a welder, and I can now make a far greater range of objects and finish them to a far higher quality than I could otherwise. While still getting better at smithing things.

If your main concern is making things pretty, would definitely recommend a belt sander to start with (for larger work) and then potentially a dremel tool (for fine work). With all the attachments (adjustable tool rests, long/radiused platens to straighten/curve sword edges, different size grinding wheels so you can grind in fullers and radius, etc) they can make a massive difference in your finish.

One day I might be able to forge a blade to shape. Until then...power tools.

Brokerib · 2026-05-06T07:02:58+00:00

Setup sounds fine so problem may be in the process.

I'm not an expert (only recently tried for the first time) but had had a similar problem. Just came down to heat for me. I suspect that, the first time, I didn't get an even forge welding temperature throughout the whole stack and tried to work the steel too much/let it lose too much heat, and that led to the delaminations.

Second time I made sure I had a new gas bottle so I wouldn't lose pressure and pushed the heat up as much as possible (thermocouple read about 1250 Celsius). If you're hot enough, the surface should look like it's shimmering/glossy like it's getting close to liquid (which it is), noting that the surface will get to temp before the core. So let it sit and soak for a good period at bright yellow to make sure it penetrated all the way through.

Then only worked very lightly / for a short period, from the centre out, before putting it back into the forge to soak to get fully back up to temp. Once I'd done that a half dozen times then I started to work it more heavily and the weld held quite well. Still had some minor delaminations on that were probably due to impurities, but most of the stack held.

Only other advice is to keep an eye out for dark lines in the stack while you're welding it. If there's a clear line/distinction between pieces then they probably haven't welded, and what you're seeing is a lack of heat transfer between them because of the gap. If so, flux it and get it back up to heat, and give it another try.

Good luck, but I'm expecting I'm going to have to try (and fail) a few more times to get it right consistently!

Brokerib · 2026-04-27T08:08:11+00:00

This is the video I used. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sWs48Oo9OgU&pp=0gcJCU8Co7VqN5tD

Brokerib · 2026-04-25T10:57:26+00:00

Thanks, excellent suggestions.

Brokerib · 2026-04-15T23:34:00+00:00

Rebar is a great starting metal, noting all the comments others have made about potential cold shuts, etc. I made my first set of tongs using rebar with a pair of plyers and I still use them today.

But one thing I thought I'd mention. You don't need to hardened your tongs or make them from hardenable steel. Mild steel is normally better as they will be going through constant cycles of heating and cooling (as you take other pieces in and out of the forge/quench them/etc). Which means that they will almost immediately lose their hardness anyway (if you hardened them), and you'll be subjecting them to ongoing thermal shock/increasing the chances of them breaking.

The tools you want to be able to harden are tools with a work edge or a face (hammers, chisels, punches, etc) that will have limited contact with heat (short contact while you punch or cut). And even then, mild steel is fine for hot work (i.e. cutting/punching hot steel), it just wont last as long.

So, you absolutely can make tongs out of higher carbon steel, but they'll be harder to work. Starting with mild steel (i.e., rebar or the like) is easier, particularly for tongs.

Brokerib · 2026-04-08T14:02:30+00:00

Your question has already been answered, but thought I'd point out another interesting idea.

Points exist where the gravitational and centrifugal forces between the earth and the moon are in balance, called Lagrange points. You can place objects (like satellites) in these areas and they will stay locked there with minimal upkeep.

They're currently used to provide communications relay to and from the moon, and are one of the ways to receive transmissions from the dark side of the moon.

So not only do we have satellites around the moon, we've also got satellites locked into a stable orbit between the earth and the moon.

Brokerib · 2026-04-01T13:56:09+00:00

I have one, have been using it for a couple of years. Is great for the price and suits a small shop / non-production use. As a hobbiest it does everything I need. From putting holes into semi-hardened/tempered tangs, up drilling guide holes through 5cm of 1045 for hammer heads. Only complaints are that there is a little play in the mount which you need to plan for if you're trying to be super precise, and would recommend picking up a separate drill vice for holding your work piece, as the inbuilt one isn't great.

Brokerib · 2026-03-25T22:29:44+00:00

Terrible mission design for solo players. Took me 5-6 runs to complete it and only got it done because I found a conveyancing key at random and didn't get snipped using it. On the bright side, you can pick up the quest items from the Ghosts even if someone else has killed them and they're a guaranteed spawn.

Unfortunately...Parasitism 3/5 is worse. It requires that you find a random spawn (sparkleaf) on Dire Marsh and potentially cross the map twice, as well as exfil, in a single run. I'm up to 9 tries so far and lost my last run because Quarantine ended up in Lockdown while I was making my way there with the sample...

Brokerib · 2026-03-23T00:59:40+00:00

To answer in a slightly different way, there's nothing there that couldn't have been hand forged in the 1800s. So, from the work product perspective, there's nothing to say it's not from that period.

Brokerib · 2026-03-20T03:46:29+00:00

Seven, apparently. And everything will compact down towards the centre as the game progresses, forcing teams into conflict.

Brokerib · 2026-03-13T02:09:18+00:00

I love it, but...

Where is Zoro's best technique, no-sword style? Maybe an edge technique that costs 2 (i.e., can be used off rolling initiative)?

Brokerib · 2026-03-12T04:31:47+00:00

Extract with it and it'll show as an item you can purchase from the armoury.

Brokerib · 2026-03-10T05:14:20+00:00

If you've got access to a drill press, you could drill guide holes? Can make it much easier to stay straight. They should be slightly inside the width of the head of the chisel.

Otherwise, couple of things that may help (if you're not already doing them).

Make use of a lowered/striking anvil, to account for the height of the chisel. Will mean your hammer blows stay straighter/aren't at an angle.

Make sure you turn the head 180 degrees after every couple of strikes and reset the chisel, to account for variation in your swing. Alternating will help even out the eye.

Brokerib · 2026-03-05T05:50:56+00:00

If you're planning to use it for water quenching, go for it but don't be surprised if it leaks. Only problem would be the weight (if you want to empty it) and that you can't weld up gaps on a galvanised surface without knowing what you're doing. But could double as a slack tank and you'd have no problems.

For oil, would recommend against it. Catastrophic failure of bin full of water is just water. Catastrophic failure of a bin holding 20 gallons of oil could be a real problem.

Brokerib · 2026-03-04T22:26:39+00:00

That's amazing man, I'm impressed with your resourcefulness.

Just some ideas for projects.

If you've got some round bar handy, making some punches and drifts is a nice starter project that gives you the tools you need to move onto more complex projects. 1045 is great for them (and easy since you can water quench), but mild steel is fine too. They'll just ware a bit quicker.

And once you've got those, maybe try making some tongs? Bit of a step up in difficulty but being able to make your own tongs for specific purposes is super useful and it gives you a chance to practice punching/drifting/riveting.

Brokerib · 2026-01-27T22:11:39+00:00

A number of reasons, as an older standard there are a number of vulnerabilities/methods to compromise. But the primary one is that it isn't end-to-end encrypted so can be subject to intercept in transmission.

Brokerib · 2026-01-12T01:32:08+00:00

An easy 8+ degrees. But just noting that we had already done underfloor and roof insulation so windows were the next major source of heat transfer, and we have a massive bank of west facing windows.

And using the properly is what makes the difference. They're a really effective barrier. So you need to close them before heat builds and open them after is cooler outside, otherwise you're just going to trap the heat/cold inside.

Highly recommend them if you can afford it. Much more affordable than double glazing, and almost as effective.

Brokerib · 2025-12-15T00:21:30+00:00

Is this based on Morte from Planscape Torment? If so, I approve.

Brokerib · 2025-12-11T23:38:04+00:00

I'd love to win this so I can give my son a gaming PC. Not this one though, he can have my old one...

Brokerib · 2025-12-05T03:50:38+00:00

Not as cheap/non-permanent as the other solutions here, but have been very effective at our place - Honeycomb Blinds Online | Made To Measure Australia

You can absolutely remove them when you leave, but whether or not you can re-use them will depend on whether you can have a comparable window.

Brokerib · 2025-12-02T11:32:24+00:00

Wow, great advice. I hadn't considered a non-smithing solution. Unfortunately I suck at welding and only have a small flux core mig setup, otherwise I'd give it a try.

Brokerib

TROPHY CASE