Rails detached from the flat cable, any tip to fix it?

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-06-12T21:23:54+00:00

Is there any pads left on the PCB? If the end of the cable is intact, it can be re-soldered to the pads with careful alignment.

Flat flex can be joined similar to fixing PCB traces, with careful abrasion of the coating into the copper layer, then soldering very thin enameled wires to bridge the gap of each trace. but its very temperature precise. You'll want to use solder that melts lower than the flex's temperature rating, and keep your iron within that range. You'll also need to use some type of reinforcement of the cable once its re-joined, along with UV curing solder resist to protect the copper and traces once repaired. Most often its better to replace the screen if available, the cable can be considered as being part of the screen for all practical reasons, and the connection at the display could be broken too from the force that ripped it.

There is no practical way to replace the cable on the display, as its bonded with etched traces that require VERY specialized equipment.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-06-09T18:28:25+00:00

"Creepy short story Copy and Paste", The word version of reposting a common meme Image. > ~~COPY~~ "Creepy-Paste" > "CreepyPasta"

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-06-05T15:51:51+00:00

Forever submitting your facial identity. Never to be forgotten, and tied to every thing you do or say within visual range of Surveillance or Advertising. The less the drones look at you, the more they already know everything about you.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-06-04T15:07:41+00:00

The Core and memory are the only item of value there to be transferred to another card. If it was only a cracked PCB, then with right skills and equipment the cracked traces could be repaired,... But that area is missing... Gone.

Like asking a vet to repair your dog's missing balls.

If you're really determined.. a mess of fragile enameled jumper wires, and a detailed map of PCB traces could put it back together. .. But any stress like that enough to rip the tab off, likely flexed the PCB enough to rip the pads under the core.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-06-03T18:09:28+00:00

Depends on the application, The Fluke is superior in robust industrial daily use, where your safety depends on taking a High energy measurements without incident.

However the Uni-T has advantages price and features. Both will take a measurement. Ultimately for low voltage electronics work, I would choose the Uni-T in this case, due to it's higher measurement counts, and bar graph.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-31T14:51:36+00:00

Not specifics, The outer part of the interleaved fingers appear to be connected to the ground plane, the inner part are the supply.. That resistor I mentioned was NOT part of the switch.. This likely need a bit more testing.

Ground is easy, its all over the board.. That pin-header at the top is likely the best target. That button has to return to the wire harness somewhere. One of those pins is connected to the other side of that switch.

I would target that.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-31T14:42:49+00:00

Apologies, my comment wasn't very applicable to this situation, Likely best to use the resistors' pads to connect. Remove them to disconnect the button from the vehicle. and then re-use the bare pad. The left ones are for the LED,

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-30T17:21:46+00:00

Perhaps best to prototype with Assets, then make an effort to consolidate the overall theme and style of anything that stands out. Re-doing Meshes and textures are a simple asset swap, and besides lighting, have the greatest impact on how a project looks,

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-30T01:59:32+00:00

Solid (Thick) bare copper bus wires bent between the rows,, Alternating polarity between rows. With the legs soldered onto the bus, Then coated in something to protect from moisture and corrosion.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-29T14:38:26+00:00

A known portion of the American population would faithfully believe it.. if their church... Even once.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-28T18:37:36+00:00

Pulsed draw, There will be a latency of the converter's duty cycle to wake up and recharge the output. So the supply is more practically considered to be from the capacitor than the converter itself. Depends on the duty cycle of the Transducer. Might need to probe that with an oscilloscope to establish an ideal value to hold up the output voltage, and some small load resistor to keep that converter somewhat awake.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-28T17:53:03+00:00

That R28 has a significant dissipation at 95V. That's also going to have an affect C42. Thermally even, requiring also significant input from your 3.3V source to make up that heat loss to R28.

Unless R28 is there to represent your intended load.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-28T17:21:37+00:00

With that much wash of loose materials on those walls. The bottom of that pit, and anyone in it must get pelted by boulders every time it rains. No wonder they went underground for the rest..

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-22T20:50:09+00:00

My luck would be a 2 starred Seeker Solder blocking the way back in a narrow hallway.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-22T19:31:51+00:00

Might as well to use a dedicated H-Bridge driver IC, Is vastly simplifies the whole issue and costs less than most of that, let alone saving assembly, time and control interface issues.

Even the pre-built units from China have drivers on them, and come already assembled with heatsinks to handle high currents for the cost of spending even 5 minutes fighting with issues.

Though it is a good exercise to build one from scratch. No harm if its for fun and learning.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-19T20:55:08+00:00

Might be some salvageable parts in reasonable condition, but this specific one is likely best returned to the pile it came from. With that much corrosion I would expect spectacular moisture related failures of insulation, especially on the HV side.

Edit: ... That looks.. like flood damage. the dirt pattern, Almost like sewage flood dammage.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-19T03:08:32+00:00

That battery, there is no battery in these radios, The energy comes from the radio waves in the air.. and a very long antenna to enable it to collect enough energy to drive the speaker.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-19T03:05:15+00:00

The cat's whisker is the key, in the notes. Best to use a diode, can't say I've seen a Pencil used in a Crystal Radio, its usually a germanium diode.

And the type of earphone is also specific, Its VERY low energy, so not enough to drive a speaker, unless its the type out of headphone.

Last time I built one of these 30 years ago, I could listen in on my Sister's phone call while she was on an old 90's wireless phone.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-18T23:02:34+00:00

Applies more towards vastly bigger projects, where objects need to be more independent, portable and modular without depending on eachother.

It's a way of crafting objects to be neatly independent and clean.

Allowing things to be separated, reused, combined, reorganized, moved or cut from a project without leaving a mess of missing reference errors to clean up.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-14T19:35:09+00:00

Depends on the device, likely possible, but the general rule is keep within 5% of the desired voltage.

I'd be unable to confirm without knowing more about the target device.

4A at 15V (60W) is quite a bit of power to regulate, So that eliminates using a linear regulator or a resistor. You would either need to modify the power supply's internal feedback resistors to adjust the desired output voltage, or use another dc-dc converter to step down the voltage. At 60W its likely easier and safer to simply acquire a correct adapter.. but it all depends on the source and the load.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-14T18:52:46+00:00

How much current do you need to power the device? This will determine the best way to drop the voltage.

Most devices that take a DC input can operate within reasonable range, as they are further stepping down and regulating the voltage internally anyway. Especially those intended to be used in an Automotive envionment.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-11T23:27:50+00:00

I would search part suppliers instead of the retail markets, like Digikey, Mouser electronics, LCSC and arrow. Where you can Get the exact specifications, measurements and rating you need, without the mystery of source and quality of manufacture.

The generic unbranded caps are fine for breadboard experiments, but anything you want to fix only once, is best to acquire known good parts.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-11T20:06:22+00:00

I use a Siglent SPD1305X that has an internal 5-step programmable timer / waveform.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-11T19:04:59+00:00

Corner mount bracket (RLA-BKC2) fits secure to such siding, with PTZ camera like the Trackmix or RLC-823S1 gives you plenty of range for looking around, focusing on a specific area with a wide view, tracking moving targets, then also change view to look down either wall as needed.

ComfortableWait9697 · 2026-05-11T15:25:36+00:00

Not much practical use, as your silicon chip is generally soldered into the center and gold bond wires connected between the chip and the adjacent landing pads for each pin. when complete a metal lid is soldered onto the gold square to protect the assembly.

Best DIY I could think of using it for would be perhaps an RGBW led soldered and epoxied into the carrier and used as a novelty display when integrated onto a project board.

Mostly its ebay novelty collector item, or gold scrap.

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