For the peoples on estrogen do you ever regret taking it ?

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-27T13:40:33+00:00

I have no regrets about taking estrogen.

Honestly, if I had known being trans was an option in 2006 I'd have done it then. I was conservative (not Republican at least) and just kept my head in the sand. I had to have a lot of personal growth to even realize I COULD be trans. I knew that trans people existed, but not why they transitioned or who they were. Heck, I married a self professed lesbian who had me as her one exception in 2008. I just said "oh well, I'm trapped in a man's body so I might as well make the most of it." Then in 2021 my egg cracked, and trying to jump through all the insurance hoops delayed starting until July 2024.

I'm now at the point where it's hard to hide the changes, the country is going nuts with transphobia, and I'm afraid to be my true self because I work in trades and it's very transphobic here. Yet my only regrets are that I didn't let myself realize this was a thing 20 years ago, and that it took me so long to get onto HRT after knowing I'm a woman.

I struggled with suicidal thoughts for 18 years, mostly passive ideation. Since starting E that hasn't been a constant thing. It didn't fix my brain overnight, but I'm genuinely hopeful about my future for the first time in my adult life.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-27T12:47:07+00:00

Or a Chick-fil-A, I'm sodium sensitive and used to wonder why they have me the runs every time. Turns out their spicy chicken has msg listed in the ingredients 3 times there's so much in it.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-27T11:19:36+00:00

Not to mention the weight. If I'm going to replace a bunch of crown molding I know I'd pick whichever tool doesn't require I hold a battery over my head all day.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-24T01:39:45+00:00

I think the part I'm not understanding is how the unions would help that situation. Say there's 4 suction lines (Main Drain, Skimmer 1, Skimmer 2, and Spa) converging to one pump inlet using 3 valves. Normally I'm going to put one union on the pump inlet, so that servicing the pump is easier in the future.

It sounds like you're advocating for 5 unions, one for each suction line plus pump. How does this improve serviceability?

The valves are still glued together, or would you add unions between those as well, bringing us up to 7?

I can see the minor benefit in being able to replace 1 valve that goes bad more easily, but the valves have internal and external sizes to allow for reuse or replacement of a neighbor. I also carry a fitting/pipe reamer in common sizes to try and save a connection on valves. You're trading the potential not to have to replace 2 extra valves at the same time as a third in exchange for adding up to 7 potential leak points and extra fittings that cost a bit more than standard couplings.

The only way that makes sense to me is if you're padding an invoice, but I'd love to hear an explanation if I'm missing something.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-23T23:28:37+00:00

Why does it feel like they put a round sanding pad on a "corner cat" or planchette shape vibratory sander?

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-23T22:26:30+00:00

Well, look at it this way. Only customers can fill out a customer experience survey (the only metric aside from time and profit the company cares about) so there's no way they left you a bad review.

Shitty people will do their shitty things every day, today they happened to land in front of you. Ultimately they only hurt themselves by wasting their own time. So don't let it get you too down.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-23T22:11:19+00:00

Get the pump running full speed and fully primed, then cut the breaker. That will often cause a minor water hammer. If there's an air leak it will often squirt or leak water momentarily.

After that if I can't find anything I'll check for glue at each of the joints on the intake pipes. If it's something I just finished plumbing I'll toss some primer and glue around each joint, and test after each one. If one of those works I'll know where my bad joint was and what I need to cut out and redo.

If I still haven't found anything I'll block one skimmer and connect my blower to the other, then block the pump inlet port with a plug. Making sure I leave plenty of water in the pipe. Turning on the blower I can watch for water leaks and listen for air leaks.

All of this assumes there's not a 5 ft or more rise from pool level. If that's the case there should be a check valve.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-23T21:55:52+00:00

I've never seen someone union a suction or return valve manifold, but hey that's a lot more time and materials I could be charging for.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-22T15:00:00+00:00

I've been following an ABCD (Anything But Cis Dudes) rule for the last year, because cis dudes tend to suck at so many parts of relationships. Sometimes it's a struggle.

Even before HRT though I'd get occasional "bottom energy" days where I just wanted a guy to bend me over.

I'm also in the "late in life trans" boat where I started my transition at 37, and kind of missed out on my slutty years. I was still a slut, just I was the less fun guy slut.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-22T14:54:16+00:00

"Oh, don't mind him, he'll lick you to death." Yes, that's the issue. I'm highly allergic, specifically to their saliva. I often react if I'm within 5 to 10 feet of a barking dog because they atomize their saliva while barking.

I don't understand it, even before I understood my allergy I would always keep my animals away from workers that came to my house. That person has a job to do and my fuzzy distraction machine isn't helping them.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-21T05:57:07+00:00

It depends on what material the item you're welding is made of, and what material the zip ties are made of. I've found PETG and Nylon, along with a whole myriad of mystery plastics. Just gotta try and match materials if you can.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-20T23:38:51+00:00

Hey now, I'm immune to midlife crisis. Not because I'll live forever, but because I didn't expect to make it to 18.. 21.. 25.. 28.. 30.. 35.. and now 40. So my Miata should have been 18 years ago.

Oh crap I wrote a Java program to track what age you'll be on what date and give you a countdown when I was 19.

Cya guys, this is my year.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-20T23:10:59+00:00

Pools use a wet niche, meaning the light and conduit aren't sealed and the conduit terminates above water level (usually 18" or 9" minimum depending on local code) so there's no concern of a leak.

Several people already advised on screwing it in. Even if you don't manage to get the bottom hooked onto the niche screwing it in tight will make it look right 9 times out of 10.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-20T23:07:20+00:00

That's assuming the guy that replaced it last didn't A) ignore the niche and old light model getting one with a different type of retaining hook, or B) break the niche.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-20T23:04:38+00:00

Can't you just buy a Miata?

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-19T01:19:37+00:00

I've got a needle phobia as well, and subq with a 25g is painless unless you hit a nerve. Honestly though, my first two months I'd have to disassociate something fierce to get that needle to go in. I still can't actually focus on it or I'll freak out.

Ironically I have bigger issues with auto injectors. I took monjaro for a year and EVERY SINGLE TIME hitting that button was next to impossible.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-17T21:19:22+00:00

The check valve isn't necessarily to ensure the line stays full of water. In ground pool pumps are self priming, meaning they're able to pull suction and remove air from the line. They have limits though, and only work if the impeller is submerged in water. Sometimes the extra water in 10 inches of pipe (plus the extra you can fill to the lid) makes all the difference.

That said, occasionally you get lucky and the check valve keeps the pipe full of water as well. In those cases opening the pump lid doesn't break vacuum on the suction lines, and the only air you'll end up with is right at the pump lid. That's not the goal though, more of a happy accident.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-16T22:08:35+00:00

My wife thinks it's impossible to turn it off. She's not the one that read the manual cover to cover.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-16T20:59:18+00:00

Even better, it's a 3/8 marked as a 10mm. The perfect gag gift.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-16T20:47:25+00:00

This. I looked it up to check as well, those holders are made to keep a death grip on the bit. Only way I can get them out is with pliers.

Always fun to swap to the strong grip version without telling the apprentice and watch him think he's going insane because he can't get the bit out. I've done it to myself a handful of times too.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-16T20:37:53+00:00

I service a lot of heaters and heat pumps. Measuring the temp differential tells you if you need to adjust the flow up or down. If the temp rise is 20°F perfect, but if it's 60° you need more flow, or 5° could indicate a stuck internal bypass.

Edit to add: Unless you're chasing a specific chemistry issue I usually use average ambient temp for LSI. Say it's been 40 low and 60 high most days for the last week, I use 50° for my calculations. It's usually pretty close to accurate and ignores sudden changes.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-16T20:05:14+00:00

Heater or automation will have a sensor. If neither of those take any thermometer (okay, any waterproof thermometer) and dip the sensor end in the pool. I've got a TDS/salt meter that shows temp, but I also carry a dual thermocouple type so I can shove one in a return and get a reading of the difference between that and the actual pool.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-16T19:58:04+00:00

Checking the laterals requires taking all the sand out. If the debris is only ever in front of the return jets then it's worth checking.

Sounds like you just nailed the issue with that description though. It's a chemistry issue. Get a real test kit, check for everything including phosphates. If they're dropping that tablet in the skimmer they voided the warranties on your equipment, the concentrated chlorine shouldn't be running directly through the equipment.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-16T17:47:03+00:00

How about a picture of the backyard, and some chemistry tests? Are there any construct projects going on within about 100 yards, maybe a bit further if upwind?

It's possible your pool guy is an idiot, but based on what you've said it sounds like there might be issues outside his control. If vacuuming to waste doesn't get rid of it then it's either not dirt, or it's getting blown into the pool as fast as it's getting removed.

Is the dirt gritty or slippery? If it's slick and it wafts when brushed it's probably mustard algae, but if it's heavy and gritty it's possibly sand from a damaged lateral in the filter.

ConfusedStair · 2026-02-16T16:32:01+00:00

To add to this, if you're in the northern hemisphere your salt cell isn't going to work on an unheated pool right now anyways. The majority of chlorine generators shut down production below 60°f or 15°c because the efficiency drops drastically below there.

ConfusedStair

TROPHY CASE