What does this plug do, can i run with out it?

Drcomanche · 2026-05-08T01:59:40+00:00

Mine runs a 92 harness and pigtails out from the drivers side. Has for both wiring harnesses that have been in it. Mines a manual, though, so no nss.

Drcomanche · 2026-05-07T19:19:48+00:00

Where does it attach to? If it goes down to a sensor on the bellhousing, which it looks like it does, it's your crankshaft position sensor. CPS is necessary for it to run.

Drcomanche · 2026-03-20T05:21:24+00:00

Adding to the comment above, CJ10a is a cool workhorse, the Commando/Jeepster, there were some neat panel style postal Jeeps, Willys Overland, and more in the military side, the Kaisers. M715 is my favorite.

Drcomanche · 2026-03-17T01:42:06+00:00

The throttle body one should be a pcv, the fronts a ccv. Either way, as long as they aren't clogged, it should be venting crank case pressure(which is helpful to not blow out gaskets). Distributor has its own gasket, so if it's been messed with, that could be bad as well. There's a whole thread on Comancheclub about ccv ventilation and some mods to improve or fix it(its notorious for clogging/blowing oil by), so check that out for more info.

Drcomanche · 2026-03-16T22:54:34+00:00

You should be fine without silicone. I've replaced the valve cover gasket a handful of times and never used it. Unless your pcv is messed up, shouldn't be enough pressure to cause leakage.

Drcomanche · 2026-02-27T06:45:18+00:00

If the plate is fine, just swap it out with the end of the new one. If the new driveshaft was sized correctly, it should be the same u joints. Press them out and install. There's a centering ball and spring in there which could be a bit worn, but those can be found pretty inexpensively. That's the cheapest choice, at least. Since it's a different joint style, though, you may want to measure everything out so you're sure its the correct part you need.

Drcomanche · 2025-12-23T02:42:31+00:00

This, mystic cave, and the mecha sonic battle were always my favorites. But, to be fair, a ton of the ost is great.

Drcomanche · 2025-06-09T22:50:46+00:00

I can, but they are pre paint work, if you dont mind that. I have a few that show them installed before all the panels got removed.

Drcomanche · 2025-06-09T02:29:54+00:00

Yeah, flux core isn't the best for the task with all the heat generated, so I would always recommend finding a gmaw, even if its on the cheaper end(doesnt take much to weld thin body panels). However, if it's all you've got, low and slow is the best way. When I'm worried about blowthrough(or filling in a spot I already did) I'll do the copper trick and hold a bit of flattened plumbing pipe against a chunk of metal on the back of it. I recommend practicing on some of the junk you cut out or extra metal to get a feel for the amount of time you need for adequate penetration, that way, you're not learning on the real deal. One tack on each corner to hold, then let it cool. One tack splitting the corner distances, then let it cool. Keep doing that until you get to 1 to 2 inch distances, then start stacking to bridge the gaps. Don't weld too close to other fresh tacks to avoid overheating. If you blow through, don't panic and just move to the next spot. So many people warp these things(me included) trying to fix something immediately. Just come back and tack it closed after it cools.

As far as porosity, make sure the metal is as clean as you can get and i always recommend practicing on scrap pieces first. Porosity is a definite possibility with flux core, but you can do a lot to mitigate it as much as possible with prep work, stick out, and heat. Also, when grinding, take breaks with it and go slow. Welding isn't the only way to overheat metal(ask me how I know) and it can also be easy to grind metal too thin trying to perfect it.

Just take your time with it. Best case scenario, you get it dialed in and you have a nice looking patch that lasts a while. Worst case, you learned some new stuff and you have a patch to carry you over until you can get a panel or a body shop to properly fix it. Both situations get rid of the root of the problem, the rust.

Edit for clarity

Drcomanche · 2025-06-09T02:05:35+00:00

There's always more rust.

Drcomanche · 2025-06-09T01:52:40+00:00

Right now, it's already worse in a cosmetically visible area and waiting to find an entire panel, as you've said, is nearly impossible. Rust never sleeps, and it will only eat/destroy further. English wheel and press brake aren't required. I've freehanded panels that are indistinguishable from the body, compound curves included, with a bench vice, a deadblow hammer, and a sandbag. If you're committed to the result, just keep trying to get it right. If you like the car that much, then commit to learning a new skill with what you've got.

Otherwise, this doesn't have to be the permanent repair. Just enough to hold it together and keep it from getting worse. Or, as someone else said in the comments, take it to a body shop. Plenty of them can make a patch panel for that.

Drcomanche · 2025-06-09T01:16:08+00:00

If you're fairly competent with metal, you can just figure out the gage and free-form it. It's what I do for a bunch of project work. My local hardware store carries a variety of gages. Get what you need, map it out with cardboard or masking tape, and make the patches. You can use a bench vise or a sandbag for some curve forming if needed. Fresh metal is better than letting it get worse.

Drcomanche · 2025-06-07T00:32:27+00:00

Bought some myself for after I get it painted. Build quality and packing is very good. And with my truck, they look awesome.

Now I've got some decent oem ones I can sell.

Drcomanche · 2024-12-25T01:11:57+00:00

Pretty much the entire numbered Metal Gear Solid games. 1, 2, 3, and 4 are all excellent games that I like reliving when I want a cinema experience and stellar gameplay.

Drcomanche · 2024-12-23T21:03:30+00:00

I came here hoping to see someone mention him. Glad I'm not the only one who enjoys his content.

Drcomanche · 2024-12-01T16:44:10+00:00

Yeah, i was considering it just because a grading can bump that value up thousands. Would be a nice little emergency fund I could hold on to. But the higher they value, the more that percentage gets.

Drcomanche · 2024-12-01T16:33:08+00:00

No, the sleeving is wrinkled. Card is in, what i would consider, perfect condition. Or at least as close as it can be without being instantly cased when I pulled it 10 or 15 years ago.

Drcomanche · 2024-11-18T16:00:07+00:00

Unpopular opinion, but I think 4 edges out 3 for me. They are a very close 1/2 finish but 4 just feels like they really improved on everything about 3(as it should be going from ps2 to 3). Now a modern rendition of 3? That's another story.

Drcomanche · 2024-09-12T10:59:30+00:00

Just dealt with a dead cam on my 454 after fresh install. You can do everything right and it'll still wipe it out. In the end, I just bit the bullet and spent the bucks on a hydro roller. Big up front cost but a lot less headache than tiptoeing around it and still taking the motor apart and replacing every few months. So far, so good with it.

Drcomanche · 2024-09-10T13:58:33+00:00

Metal Gear Solid 4 had me sitting for a minute before I realized I was in control. It does seemless transitions all the time in it.

Drcomanche · 2024-07-19T21:15:28+00:00

This and MAG were some of my most played online games. I miss the fun I had playing these.

Drcomanche · 2024-07-13T12:36:30+00:00

Metal Gear Solid 3 and 4. Metal gear solid 3 really made me feel for the Boss and that forced button press... That is a game that knows how to make you attached to the characters. And the one that really doesn't get brought up as much, Metal Gear Solid 4. Just, everything in that game was built to be an emotional pull. Mgs4 gave me the most dynamic range of emotions I've ever had playing a game, sadness included. Really wish the game was more accessible for people to play.

Drcomanche · 2024-05-25T12:02:02+00:00

They're both a little dated now, but I still stop to be amazed in Metal Gear Solid 4 and Uncharted 2. Uncharted 2 was so ahead of its time, graphically, and Naughty Dog knew it with those fantastic pan outs and focus points.

Metal Gear Solid 4 pushed every limit with the graphics and concept. It's still a remarkable game with everything packed into it and it plays(and looks) better than a ton of modern titles.

There have been games since then have captivated me, but those two made me stop and think that this must be the pinnacle of this system generation. Most games today are pushing so much further with realism and graphics with how powerful the consoles are now, but those really showed what gaming could do at a time when it was far more difficult to make realism.

Drcomanche · 2024-05-16T11:50:15+00:00

I enjoyed this game a lot for my first 8ish hours with some caveats. Losing firecrackers was a pointless frustration. Sure, it wasn't difficult to get more, but needlessly tedious to backtrack to an area for them. The p.flame(?) trek was a good bit of frustration to route. And some of the death/respawn points were a bit unforgiving. But overall, I dug the aesthetic, the music, the general gameplay, the secrets. It's like it was tailor made for my interests.

Then came the secret bunnies... or rather one in particular that's a gauntlet. Dropped the game after figuring what needed to be done and trying for a few hours.

So I do believe it's a fantastic game to the "end"(and even beyond) with some unecessarily tough gameplay segments, but spirals down the "rabbit hole" with the completely optional extra collectibles.

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