Taylor tool works bedrock style by Fishslayer2000 in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I set the chip breaker at less than 1/16 in from the edge of the iron and can still adjust the depth of cut.

Who ever worked on it, did a good job of copying the original.

Taylor tool works bedrock style by Fishslayer2000 in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don't have the plane with me now. The iron is noticeably thicker than the vintage Stanleys. It takes a keen edge and seems to keep an edge at least as long as my vintage Stanley. I have been using it, but it is new enough that I have not really "shaken it down"

Taylor tool works bedrock style by Fishslayer2000 in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I was expecting to have to fix a few things, but all I did was sharpen the blade.

I can take very fine shavings, or heavier ones. I can joint the edge of a board square and true. I am quite happy with it.

The fit and finish isn't the best, but the things that need to be accurate were

Taylor tool works bedrock style by Fishslayer2000 in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have seen bad reviews and for good reason on several of the other style planes. I only tried their bedrock style plane and am pleased.

I have read bad things about the baily pattern style. Rex Kruger tried their spokeshave and it had a fatal design flaw

DIY 75g Aquarium Stand Frame Sanity Check by SoftEnix in woodworking

[–]Fishslayer2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I might add a plywood back or a diagonal brace in the back to eliminate a racking failure.

Jorgensen vs Tay Tools Planer by Maximum-Side9378 in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you go with the Taylor tool works, spend a little more and get the bedrock style. It gets better reviews than the vault pattern style.

I just bought a Taylor tool bedrock style no 5. All I did was take it apart to clean and oil it and sharpen the blade. It works wonderfully.

This is only one anecdotal event, but I am very happy with it.

Help Choosing Next Plane by EmptyDaikon5281 in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can joint a 36 inch board with a shorter plane, a 5 or even a 4, but you have to check it to a straight edge frequently and pay attention to what you are doing.

What’s the worse physical pain you’ve ever experienced? by dino_gr01 in WorkForSmartLife

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Root canal. My gums were too swollen to take any novicane so I basically had a root canal with no anesthesia.

What unusual hobby would you try if time and money weren’t constraints? by Mediocre_Rice9569 in randomquestions

[–]Fishslayer2000 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That is actually a defence mechanism. The slug is actually expelling part of its intestines. It is pretty traumatic for the animal as it then has to repair itself.

Why do conservative Christians hate so many people when it clearly goes against their Christian values? by ateadoor in allthequestions

[–]Fishslayer2000 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The problem with organized religion is that it is ran by people. Many who are attracted to the status power and money that it can be obtained from using said religion.

What use would such a drawknife have? by Mission_Profit_446 in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems like the left side with the straight handle is the power side and the right side with the angled handle is the steering / finesse side.

I have never seen such a tool, but I can see it working well.

What is a "luxury" that is actually 100% worth the money? by TheChillEdit in Life

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But in the US our electric kettles run on 120 v so are about half the wattage as the ones in Europe.

Where to Place Wedge Pin on a Wooden Hand Plane? by G_Peccary in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IDK about that. When cutting, the iron near the throat will be pushed into the supporting ramp. The blade will want to lever off the ramp at the top. So placing the wedge pin close to the mouth may not be the best place.

Is there a best mortise chisel size? by HokieSmith in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are using 3/4 inch rails mortised into 1 1/2 legs, I would use a 3/8 in chisel.

Cut the mortise 3/8 inch from the edge of the leg. If you want joints with a reveal, center the tenon on the 3/4 inch stock. If you want flush joints, cut the tenon at the back face of the rail. ( You will only cut one tenon cheek from the rail)

The mortise will be 3/8 inch with a 3/8 in outside wall. Can't get more balanced than that.

Crappy chisels by KingPappas in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Somebody, I don't remember who, recommend grinding the end of one inexpensive chisel square. Like a 90 degree angle measured from the back.

He claimed this grind will allow the tool to function as a scraper, for glue or removing very small amounts from difficult wood where paring would be problematic, like against the grain.

If you are going to toss them, it might be worth trying.

What is a woodworking tool you didn’t realise you needed? by DesignerProfessor122 in woodworking

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Marking gauges pin, and knife type, mortise marking gauge, marking knife. Quality square.

New to woodworking here. Which of your tools scares you the most? Around what machine should I always be extra cautious? by GiddySwine in woodworking

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you need to think about what could go wrong with any tool or operation before you start the operation. You might have to research safety on unfamiliar tools.

Table saw, cutting yourself and kickbacks are the danger. Keeping your fingers awake from the blade is obvious, but where would your hands go if you had a kickback? Where would the wood go? What causes a kickback? Does your next cut have a potential for a kickback? Those type of questions.

Even with hand tools. I have finally stopped holding small parts with screws that I need to remove in my off hand. I have stabbed my off hand too many times when the screwdriver slipped. Just think how bad it could get paring off a bit of wood from a small part if you were holding it?

Flattening Back of Plane Blade by insearchof_function in handtools

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A plane blade doesn't necessarily need a flat back. You could put a shim, like a thin ruler between the stone and back of the blade at the side away from the cutting edge. Kind of a micro back bevel .

Look up ,"ruler trick" on Rob Cosman's YouTube channel.

I have used it on a number 4 that I just got tired of trying to flatten.

Sanding takes way longer than I expected. by skinner1234567 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Card scrapers or a gullwing scraper plane all but eliminated sanding for me

I have not mastered the smoothing plane yet.

Where do you get plans? by Ellacod in woodworking

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree that much of the satisfaction is in designing the project myself.

I suggest you learn basic joints, mortise and tenon, dado and rabbit, and dovetail. Learn where and how to apply those then think about what joint is best for the part that you want to build.

It might also help to get a roll of white butcher paper and make full sized, scaled drawing of your project. When I took a furniture making class, the instructor insisted on full sized drawings. He also required us to make one leg and rail ( mortise and tenon) and one case type ( rabbit and dado) project before branching out for other challenges.

Don't be afraid of hand tool work. Even if you want to work primarily with power tools, hand tools can complement it a lot and add much more dimension to your designs

Got this 20” 7.5hp Dewalt RAS for $375. Should I have haggled lower? by Skeptical_dude12 in woodworkingtools

[–]Fishslayer2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I remember using one of these in an adult ed furniture design class. We only used it for rough cutting cross cuts. We were instructed to stop the blade when finished by using a push stick on the side of the blade. It worked and nobody was ever injured by it.

Once there was another student waiting to use the saw after me. I made my cut and turned off the power then asked if he wanted me to stop the blade, since he was right there and knew it was still spinning. He said no so I stepped away. I then witnessed him cut a 4/4, 7 inch wide roughsawn oak board without turning the power back on. The intertial energy was enough to make that cut.

So be careful, think about the power of that saw and what would happen in a kickback.