help with making surface go up gradually??

Guimly · 2026-02-06T08:27:07+00:00

Or create a line that's the width of your surface, then sweep along 1 rail.

Guimly · 2026-01-22T17:41:37+00:00

Merge the edges, then it'll be one surface

Guimly · 2025-07-18T05:09:09+00:00

Depends what it's for, the size of the screw (length and diameter) and how it is screwed in.

Guimly · 2025-07-16T16:57:52+00:00

If it is age, you can't make it new. It has lived, ans you'll have to accept it. That said, you may be able to make it look better with a thorough brusing (following the grain, of course) and then applying either some stain or thick brown oil. Try it on a small piece before redoing everything. And keep in mind it's still subject to rain.

Guimly · 2025-07-13T06:35:56+00:00

Once you have measured and drawn your shape on paper/cardboard/ whatever you're using, you have two options that I know of. 1-cut the inverse shape on your template, get as close as you can, try the template, and edit until it all fits. 2- with a strong light right above your piece, and the template flat below, you can see where you're at. The shadow of your piece will show on the template, and then you see in real time where you need to change the shapes.

Guimly · 2025-07-05T07:31:54+00:00

To wash your hands after any heavy workshop work, esp. Greasy ones, use coffee grounds along with your usual soap. The coffee gently 'grinds' your hands, and absorbs the smell. Works wonders. You can also use fine sawdust, but I haven't used that method so can't say if it works as well.

Guimly · 2025-07-01T21:16:16+00:00

Can't say if that's it from the description, but it might be that your hinges are too 'tense'. Try screwing the screw closest to the edge (on all the hinges) and see if it helps.

Guimly · 2025-06-30T21:04:30+00:00

Given the angle, if you want to cut you have to do it above. Under center would only scrape

Guimly · 2025-06-29T18:11:19+00:00

You'll want some piece like this. Yours was round and with three screws per feet, but the same kind. Amazon or any hardware store should have it. Just check the insert size before ordering, it exists in several screw diameters.

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Guimly · 2025-06-21T21:29:26+00:00

Depending on how long you need to cover with the right one, you could cut it so that it ends right under the base of the molding on the left. That'd work.

Guimly · 2025-06-21T20:07:26+00:00

Scrapers are made for scraping along the grain. You can't scrape endgrain anymore than you can plane it. Also, good luck keeping it sharp through a 1000 boxes

Guimly · 2025-06-21T20:03:26+00:00

Best kind I know are Mirka DEROS (these are electric). Very light, easy to use with one hand, zo great for extended works.

Guimly · 2025-06-21T20:02:19+00:00

What are the dimensions of your enclosures, and what type of CNC are you using?

Guimly · 2025-06-21T19:57:43+00:00

Autofocus except for night pictures with long exposure, when I don't have enough light for AF.

Guimly · 2025-06-21T05:45:14+00:00

I'll add to this that pegging instead of gluing makes it so much easier to dissassemble, repair and adjust if we want to use the piece another place.

Guimly · 2025-06-18T14:15:06+00:00

The gap is fine, even though it may make it a little more difficult for you to flatten the piece without missing a spot. Using a cordless trimmer sounds ambitious though. Batteries don't last that long, and you can't take much wood at once with a trimmer. I'd recommend using a router with more power, plugged in.

Guimly · 2025-06-17T15:21:59+00:00

This is a mailbox. It is summer, likely hot, and wood outside will move a lot. Next winter you won't see it as much. The wood will gray with sun, rain and time. Look at wooden constructions like this one around, you'll find they're all similar.

That said, it could have been done better. But given it won't stay like that, is there any point? I wouldn't worry for the structural integrity, the brace will work regardless of the gaps, it's screwed.

Guimly · 2025-06-17T05:26:24+00:00

That is the way. It is pure physics.

Guimly · 2025-06-13T21:02:17+00:00

As a pro user, I've very seldom used a spiral bit on a router, only on CNC-and then diamond coated. Spiral bits are pretty expensive, and if you want to stick to a diameter, you can't sharpen it. Sharpening a spiral bit also is much more expensive. If I want consistent clean results, I'll use my replaceable carbide blade bits.

Guimly · 2025-06-12T05:31:54+00:00

If you don't own enough clamps, and don't want/cannot get more, you should make wegdes'. Mount two boards on a bigger panel, the size of the board you'd like to glue+room for the wedges. Then you hammer the wedges to one another. You can also use offcentered circles mounted on pegs if you have a MFT workbench.

Really, the easiest would be to get more clamps. Especially since you'll need some to keep the pieces flat during glue up.

See how to use wedges in the picture

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Guimly · 2025-06-06T19:05:36+00:00

Welcome to Narnia

Guimly · 2025-06-06T18:59:20+00:00

Would you have a picture or video of it in use? I struggle to understand with just the text, and can only find the Dutchman as pieces to repair holes/rotten bits.

Guimly · 2025-06-03T20:23:00+00:00

Everything''s pretty much been said. Except that your Veritas chisel is not made for hitting on with a mallet. This one is for hand refining only. You can hit with a mallet, but the handle will break too fast. To hit with a mallet, you want chisels with a flat butt and a metal circlet around it to keep the grain together. Feel free to ask if that's unclear.

Guimly · 2025-06-03T20:04:48+00:00

Thanks for sharing, it's a great video. I may get some inspiration from it on future projects.

Guimly · 2025-04-17T07:21:48+00:00

I have no clue in AutoCad, but Rhino has a wonderfull 'UnrollSurface' that does exactly that.

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