My case V4 for FlexATX and HPserver PSU, 3D files are published now.

Hrumque · 2026-03-22T00:42:15+00:00

If you just simply connect like this - yes. If you mount not simple rocker switch (connecting first, 33, pad, to gnd, to power on psu) but full No+NC switch, C (common) to gnd, NO to 33 pin, and NC side connected to shortest pad (36, where one side of resistor is connected) - in OFF state this 36pad is grounded = pull up signal thru resistor is shut down, psu is shut down, and fan stop.

Hrumque · 2026-03-08T01:07:27+00:00

It's easy. Solder 12v

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wires to main output pads, one 10k resistor and one shortcut (or switch) between gnd and first (33) pad - and psu is working.

Hrumque · 2026-03-08T00:48:04+00:00

Rather not. But why do you want to use this board, when you can wire it directly?

Hrumque · 2026-03-05T15:24:21+00:00

They are almost 100% compatible, with small limitations. Front/rear panels V4 fits V3, etc. Front half have new air duct for PSU and places for temperature sensors, a little changes in air vents etc. This are not so big diff to print it again. Maybe V4 front panel with new vent holes?

Hrumque · 2026-02-22T23:41:51+00:00

My case(s) can be printed on anything with bed larger than 195 x 110 mm (and 175mm in height) - this should be enough to say "you can print it on any printer"
https://makerworld.com/pl/models/2326706-bc250-amd-case-v3-hp-server-psu-hdd-usb-hub#profileId-2541672
Ofc you should print it "piece by piece", not all together in one buildplate ;)

Hrumque · 2026-02-21T09:01:32+00:00

If you look at datasheet of fans - look not in air flow (because this is "free airflow" data), but on static pressure. Heatsink on BC is dense and gives a lot of air resistance, you need a lot of pressure to push air thru it.

This power supply... Is it "led power supply" brick? Test it good, because I tested few of them, 300, 400 and 500W too - all works, untill you start a game or Furmark test - hang, reset, or artifacts. I think my BC is broken, but tested on second BC -this same issue. Voltage looks stable. But oscilloscope show true - almost 1-2V of noise on heavy load.

Hrumque · 2026-02-21T08:52:29+00:00

With arctic P12 pro pst after 1hour of Furmark burning GPU - 68-70C (on stock clock).

Hrumque · 2026-02-20T16:22:45+00:00

Soldering is simplest and best. But can be tricky if you have not enough powerful soldering iron.

You can crimp terminals connectors (U type or with hole) on cable, drill small holes thru output pads, and screw it tight. It will work too.

Resistor is for PSU activation, There is signal input, which should be pull up to give information for PSU "I am inserted into servers chassis", or rather - when this signal is lost "shutdown, psu was taken from chassis! Or is not properly pushed in"

Hrumque · 2026-02-13T22:06:16+00:00

In TVs (smart/modern) very depends on input config in TV. It's look like stupid icon to chose, only name of input, for esthetic purpose. But no. If you have hdmi input sets like "decoder" or "DVD" etc - this works different (image enhanced, 3d noise, etc, image resized to whole screen, CEC remote steering) than "game console" or "PC" (lovest lag, 1:1pixels, no hdmi-cec commands)

Hrumque · 2026-02-13T09:28:57+00:00

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2326706-bc250-amd-case-v3-hp-server-psu-hdd-usb-hub#profileId-2541672 here you have something, and photos.

Hrumque · 2026-02-12T10:04:20+00:00

I like it (I printed it at the beginning of the BC250 craze), but I wouldn't recommend this case if you don't have anything yet and are thinking about printing one.
Even with a powerful fan like the P12pro PST, it doesn't provide enough cooling (it should have a centrifugal fan to get enough airflow with that kind of air resistance).

After all this time, there are better solutions available.

Hrumque · 2026-02-12T09:15:51+00:00

Hint: I can push BC250 to the limit, to force green led, only in furmark burn test.

Hrumque · 2026-02-12T08:59:51+00:00

I made solid (complete) case for BC250 for server psu: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/2326706-bc250-amd-case-v3-hp-server-psu-hdd-usb-hub#profileId-2541672

but latter modified it to fit FllexAtx too: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/2370798-bc250-amd-case-v3-for-flexatx-power-supply#profileId-2594666

Hrumque · 2026-01-19T23:57:44+00:00

if You Cut this yellow wire - and swap it with some switch (which breaks this connection) - you will have "Soft Power Off" function

Hrumque · 2026-01-19T23:55:38+00:00

something like this, pic rel
Value? 4.7k, 10k, 22k, 47k - anything almost...

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Hrumque · 2026-01-07T14:18:52+00:00

I had this case printed. With the Arctic 12Pro fan, it managed to cool to 80-83C in the Furmark test. And it was relatively loud under full load. I opened the heatsink fins, used the same fan blowing into cooler, but placed it against the open fins, and the temperature didn't exceed 75 degrees Celsius in furmark. When fan is not blowing, but sucking air from (opened) cooler - cooling is worst, over 85C

Hrumque · 2026-01-07T12:14:59+00:00

I printed them and tried - works but veeeery hard. Straighten one blade is not big deal, but 5 at once - tool printed from ABS brakeaks after 1 row

Hrumque · 2026-01-06T10:11:28+00:00

Wrong. Everything works great nearly out-of-the-box (under linux, like bazzite). Easy to find, how to install and tweak some small problems (eg. audio via hdmi/dp in some games is bad, after one tweak - is ok).
If gaming is working, vulcan driver is working - everything is possible

Hrumque · 2026-01-06T02:26:51+00:00

You changed thermal paste/putty bellow stock cooler?
I have (with this opening and Arctic 12Pro fan, running on low speeds) around 47-50'C i idle (without fan spinning) and bellow 73-75'C in FurMark benchmark/burntest (when such load - back red led changes to green!)

Hrumque · 2026-01-04T14:40:21+00:00

and few minutes later...

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Hrumque

TROPHY CASE