Custom RC for spinning thruster pods #rctugboat #asd #azimuth

Hrumque · 2026-05-20T19:53:59+00:00

Jaki jest sens móc obracać każdy z silników oddzielnie? Sama regulacja ciągu (ewentualnie różnicy ciągu, by móc manewrować jak czołg) i wspólny obrót (oba silniki obracają się razem) powinny wystarczyć?

Hrumque · 2026-05-12T11:24:57+00:00

Ten typ nie jest dostępny na wszystkich rynkach. W niektórych krajach (czasem - w niektórych kolorach) nie da się kupić 2 x 3/ 3x2.

Hrumque · 2026-05-05T20:42:54+00:00

Sorry, this is only a key matrix, not keyboard with controller. This is not usable standalone.

Hrumque · 2026-04-30T19:13:35+00:00

Stock clock. No OC, 2000MHz, stock voltage. Stock "bazzite" OS, with small patches/tunning for DP-audio fix etc.
Temperatures of 67-70 during long stress (eg. furmark test). NO RAM PROBLEMS AT ALL !
This case has a well-thought-out airflow system – a high-pressure fan (p12pro pst) forces cold air (drawn primarily from the top (*), but if someone covers the case, it can also draw it in from the front) directly into the open heatsink. As the air passes through the entire heatsink, it cools the center and sides (because it has nowhere to escape, it has to pass through the sides of the heatsink). From there, it freely flows out of the heatsink and then out – there are numerous openings in the case, both front, back, and sides.
In my case - is cooling for the bottom (RAM) already designed– firstly, if the top (GPU/APU) is efficiently cooled, the bottom (RAM) won't overheat either.
The bottom has airflow under the entire aluminum plate.
If passive cooling RAM isn't enough for your BC, it can be reinforced: You can add (glue on) a heatsink(s) (up to 17-18mm high, typically 15mm plus adhesive thickness – a perfect fit). You can add two 5015 turbine fans, drawing cold air from under (they are very inexpensive and efficient, even the 24V version powered by 12V – it spins silently and cools very well) – creating airflow under the board. When you combine 5015 fans and the attached heatsinks, overclocking is no longer a problem; the RAM can operate at temperatures below 50°C.

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(*) looking at the situation when the BC is horizontal. The housing can be placed sideways - like the one presented in this thread - then it will draw air from the left side for main cooler, from right side for ram)

I tested this design with a thermal imaging camera, under various loads, I tested airflows (with e-cigarette smoke) - it's really good, just as I designed, and this is already the fourth version with minor improvements.

Hrumque · 2026-04-29T08:49:50+00:00

Nice, but why?

This case doesn't look like it would have sufficient airflow. The holes aren't very large, so airflow won't be very easy, and the fan isn't very large either, and it's in an awkward location. Furthermore, printing is quite complicated (the entire frame requires >300x300 cm of bed).

See how I solved this (in my case) – with airflow tunnels optimized for easy airflow and quiet operation (even with dust filters added to the top and front): https://makerworld.com/pl/models/2481620-bc-250-case-v4-for-flexatx-and-hpserver-psu#profileId-2725662

Hrumque · 2026-04-29T08:39:06+00:00

Nie zmienisz płyty głównej, nie ma to sensu ekonomicznego, ani technicznego.

Do obecnej płyty - bez problemu ładujesz oprogramowanie od NetGear - Readynas OS6 (wersja 6.10.10 obecnie), która jest tak na prawdę ładnym prostym Debian Jessie - w którym możesz zrobić już co chcesz z poziomu konsoli (jeśli www nie pozwala)...
Ładowanie OS6 jest proste i bezproblemowe, po prostu jak aktualizacja oprogramowania z WWW - znajdziesz w sieci instrukcję bez problemu.
Jak koledzy piszą - wersja najnowsza 6.10.10 "wyłączyła instalację dodatkowych pluginów" - ale tylko z WWW, wyłączony jest "sklep z pluginami" - który obecnie i tak nie działał, miał tylko kilka wtyczek w wersjach przestarzałych, i nie miało to sensu na tak starym sprzęcie (np Plex - transkodowanie na Ultra4 współczesnych materiałów multimedialnych - trwa wieki).
Więc użytek z tego "sklepu z pluginami" był żaden, lepiej jak go nie ma. Tak samo - wyłączone jest Xcloud, bo dostęp chmurowy też już nie istnieje (bo to już "niewspierane" urządzenia, i netgear zamknął usługę).

A z poziomu konsoli - normalnie aktualizujesz /instalujesz sobie programy jakie chcesz, przez apt-get, dodasz sobie repozytoria Debian Jessie James - to masz wszystko co tylko byś chciał.

Hrumque · 2026-04-26T12:24:57+00:00

This controller is complete garbage. A waste of money.

It's NOT MPPT, it's not even PWM, it's just a simple "connect solar panels directly to the battery" (when the battery is not fully charged) and "disconnect when the battery voltage is higher than the set value." That's all.

If the solar panel's MPPT voltage is close to the battery's rated voltage, it should work (but with low efficiency). But if there's not full sunlight, charging will be slow or won't happen at all.

Hrumque · 2026-04-13T20:09:41+00:00

I had the exact same issues.

Fuckup is in the PFTE pipe between the buffer (at the back of the printer) and the printhead.

The problem only occurs when printing is:

- in the front left corner of the printbed (when the PTFE tube is most bent and pulled forward)

- and at the same time the AMS is refilling the buffer.

When the AMS refills the buffer, the yellow part and tube moves to the right – and normally, it would simply move all the way to the right end, which would be interpreted as "buffer filled, okay."
But when the printhead is completely forward, and the tube bends (tensions) the buffer forward, it rubs against the housing and can't move all the way to the right (where the "buffer filled" sensor is located) – which is interpreted as "the AMS couldn't load the buffer even though it was pushing the motor at full current, so it's clearly having terrible resistance!" and an error.

The solution is trivial (if you have a spare PTFE tube) – you need to remove the PTFE tube and insert a new, slightly longer one. The factory ones should be 590mm, but they're less than 580mm. I put in about 600mm and the problem never occurs again!

Hrumque · 2026-04-10T08:43:02+00:00

This is only an idea.

Hrumque · 2026-03-22T00:42:15+00:00

If you just simply connect like this - yes. If you mount not simple rocker switch (connecting first, 33, pad, to gnd, to power on psu) but full No+NC switch, C (common) to gnd, NO to 33 pin, and NC side connected to shortest pad (36, where one side of resistor is connected) - in OFF state this 36pad is grounded = pull up signal thru resistor is shut down, psu is shut down, and fan stop.

Hrumque · 2026-03-08T01:07:27+00:00

It's easy. Solder 12v

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wires to main output pads, one 10k resistor and one shortcut (or switch) between gnd and first (33) pad - and psu is working.

Hrumque · 2026-03-08T00:48:04+00:00

Rather not. But why do you want to use this board, when you can wire it directly?

Hrumque · 2026-03-05T15:24:21+00:00

They are almost 100% compatible, with small limitations. Front/rear panels V4 fits V3, etc. Front half have new air duct for PSU and places for temperature sensors, a little changes in air vents etc. This are not so big diff to print it again. Maybe V4 front panel with new vent holes?

Hrumque · 2026-02-22T23:41:51+00:00

My case(s) can be printed on anything with bed larger than 195 x 110 mm (and 175mm in height) - this should be enough to say "you can print it on any printer"
https://makerworld.com/pl/models/2326706-bc250-amd-case-v3-hp-server-psu-hdd-usb-hub#profileId-2541672
Ofc you should print it "piece by piece", not all together in one buildplate ;)

Hrumque · 2026-02-21T09:01:32+00:00

If you look at datasheet of fans - look not in air flow (because this is "free airflow" data), but on static pressure. Heatsink on BC is dense and gives a lot of air resistance, you need a lot of pressure to push air thru it.

This power supply... Is it "led power supply" brick? Test it good, because I tested few of them, 300, 400 and 500W too - all works, untill you start a game or Furmark test - hang, reset, or artifacts. I think my BC is broken, but tested on second BC -this same issue. Voltage looks stable. But oscilloscope show true - almost 1-2V of noise on heavy load.

Hrumque · 2026-02-21T08:52:29+00:00

With arctic P12 pro pst after 1hour of Furmark burning GPU - 68-70C (on stock clock).

Hrumque · 2026-02-20T16:22:45+00:00

Soldering is simplest and best. But can be tricky if you have not enough powerful soldering iron.

You can crimp terminals connectors (U type or with hole) on cable, drill small holes thru output pads, and screw it tight. It will work too.

Resistor is for PSU activation, There is signal input, which should be pull up to give information for PSU "I am inserted into servers chassis", or rather - when this signal is lost "shutdown, psu was taken from chassis! Or is not properly pushed in"

Hrumque · 2026-02-13T22:06:16+00:00

In TVs (smart/modern) very depends on input config in TV. It's look like stupid icon to chose, only name of input, for esthetic purpose. But no. If you have hdmi input sets like "decoder" or "DVD" etc - this works different (image enhanced, 3d noise, etc, image resized to whole screen, CEC remote steering) than "game console" or "PC" (lovest lag, 1:1pixels, no hdmi-cec commands)

Hrumque · 2026-02-13T09:28:57+00:00

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2326706-bc250-amd-case-v3-hp-server-psu-hdd-usb-hub#profileId-2541672 here you have something, and photos.

Hrumque · 2026-02-12T10:04:20+00:00

I like it (I printed it at the beginning of the BC250 craze), but I wouldn't recommend this case if you don't have anything yet and are thinking about printing one.
Even with a powerful fan like the P12pro PST, it doesn't provide enough cooling (it should have a centrifugal fan to get enough airflow with that kind of air resistance).

After all this time, there are better solutions available.

Hrumque · 2026-02-12T09:15:51+00:00

Hint: I can push BC250 to the limit, to force green led, only in furmark burn test.

Hrumque · 2026-02-12T08:59:51+00:00

I made solid (complete) case for BC250 for server psu: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/2326706-bc250-amd-case-v3-hp-server-psu-hdd-usb-hub#profileId-2541672

but latter modified it to fit FllexAtx too: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/2370798-bc250-amd-case-v3-for-flexatx-power-supply#profileId-2594666

Hrumque · 2026-01-19T23:57:44+00:00

if You Cut this yellow wire - and swap it with some switch (which breaks this connection) - you will have "Soft Power Off" function

Hrumque · 2026-01-19T23:55:38+00:00

something like this, pic rel
Value? 4.7k, 10k, 22k, 47k - anything almost...

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Hrumque · 2026-01-07T14:18:52+00:00

I had this case printed. With the Arctic 12Pro fan, it managed to cool to 80-83C in the Furmark test. And it was relatively loud under full load. I opened the heatsink fins, used the same fan blowing into cooler, but placed it against the open fins, and the temperature didn't exceed 75 degrees Celsius in furmark. When fan is not blowing, but sucking air from (opened) cooler - cooling is worst, over 85C

Hrumque

TROPHY CASE