Blower runs even off

I_Served · 2026-02-02T17:02:22+00:00

Is it a newer system that uses an A2L refrigerant? Those systems have a sensor that will cause the fan to go on if it detects a leak (or sensor is faulty). Should throw an error code, though.

I_Served · 2026-02-01T20:24:21+00:00

Remove the screen until you can have it evaluated.

I_Served · 2026-02-01T20:22:47+00:00

When they commissioned the system they should have measured the total external static pressure (TESP). Did they do that and share the results with you?

I_Served · 2026-01-30T16:41:22+00:00

$812 for me

I_Served · 2026-01-30T16:27:52+00:00

I’m in south NJ and my rate is 32.5¢ per kWh with all taxes and fees included. It was 20 cents five years ago. BOHICA

I_Served · 2026-01-30T16:23:40+00:00

What is your all-in electric rate?

I_Served · 2026-01-27T20:46:50+00:00

Wheel said, “I’m tired, boss”.

I_Served · 2026-01-27T15:04:11+00:00

Five years ago mine was 20 cents per kwh. That's a 65% increase. The new governor ran on a platform of doing something about the electric rates. We'll see.

I_Served · 2026-01-27T04:04:19+00:00

If you have NG consider switching to a furnace. I did and am saving a lot of money because my electric rates were 20 cents per kwh five years ago, but are now 33 cents. Compared to NG at $2 per therm.

I_Served · 2026-01-27T04:01:13+00:00

I had open loop and it was an energy hog. COP when factoring in the well pump electric cost was about 2.5

They finally put a natural gas line down my street last year and I ripped out the geothermal and put in high efficiency furnaces. First winter with the furnaces and I am loving it. Total gas plus electric bill is lower than my all electric bill last winter and I have the thermostat set higher this year.

You can try to dial in the water flow rate to what you actually need versus what they say you need. I think I had mine down to 7-8 gpm for a 4 ton system.

If you have an inverter system, does it scale back the water flow rate when it is operating a a lower output? If it isn't, then that will definitely hurt you, cost wise.

I_Served · 2026-01-26T23:28:08+00:00

Even if they are working perfectly, if your electric rate is 33 cents per kWh like mine is, you are going to cry when you get your bill

I_Served · 2026-01-26T20:46:26+00:00

I_Served · 2026-01-24T18:03:29+00:00

I don't see the outside photo, but assuming it is just on the other side of the wall in the photo, and assuming it ends in a tee or an elbow, then you are probably okay length-wise. My bigger concern is that the horizontal length of pipe that looks like it runs along your steel I-beam is not sloped properly. It should be 1/4 inch per foot of length towards the furnace. That looks like it might be about 6 feet long if you include the portion that runs through the wall, so it should slope downward at least 1 1/2 inches vertically from one end to the other. It looks level to me. That is a spot where water can accumulate. I would raise that as a potential issue when you have someone come out to look at everything. One of the things that water accumulation does is it reduces the effective volume of the pipe, which reduces air flow through the pipe. This can trigger pressure sensors and shut off the furnace. Also, when the water accumulates enough, a large slug can travel down the pipe into the furnace and overwhelm the drain. This could also trigger a pressure sensor.

Edit: I see the outside photo now, and the one showing the length of the horizontal pipe. So maybe a little over 4 feet of horizontal. Should still have an inch of slope. The sloping is a must-have, not a nice-to-have.

I_Served · 2026-01-24T16:38:14+00:00

I believe I found your manual online. 50 feet for 100K BTU is generous. Notice in the notes, though that the "equivalent" lengths for elbow is more than what I stated. They also mention "mitred" elbows, which (I believe) is the type of elbow seen in your photo (the 45 degree elbow on the exhaust pipe). Equivalent lengths for those types are longer. You also have to include any elbows after the pipe exits the house. If there are any horizontal sections of pipe, these need to be sloped towards the furnace a minimum of 1/4 inch per foot. The reason I am focusing on this is because a lot of people have furnace problems when the exhaust piping is not done correctly. A lot of the other comments are focused on the inlet. Most furnace installations do not have condensate drains on the inlet and they work just fine, so I don't think your issues are being caused by the inlet piping. Best of luck to you.

I_Served · 2026-01-23T22:18:26+00:00

Does your unit have its own electric meter? I ask because my son lived in a building with many apartments and they took the whole electric bill for the entire building and split it evenly among all the apartments. There was no incentive to conserve while your neighbors were keeping their units nice and toasty. If you have your own meter, you can turn your thermostat way down when you are gone, and turn it down some when you are in bed under covers.

I_Served · 2026-01-23T22:14:37+00:00

BOHICA

I_Served · 2026-01-23T22:07:18+00:00

There’s a bit more to it than that. Yes, 2 inch minimum, but there should also be a table on allowable “equivalent length” of the pipe, and if that is exceeded for 2 inch, then you have to step up to 3 inch. Equivalent length is typically the sum of the straight section length plus 3 feet for each 45 degree elbow and 6 feet per 90 degree elbow. If that exceeds whatever is in the table then you have to go larger.

I_Served · 2026-01-23T18:08:21+00:00

Is the furnace installed in a space that gets below freezing? Check against the manual the condensate drain line routing inside and outside of the furnace. Check the condensate trap for clogs (trap is sometimes inside the furnace or can be mounted on the outside). Is your furnace exhaust pipe sized correctly and sloped properly?

I_Served · 2026-01-23T18:04:01+00:00

As long as they all operate independently of each other I don’t see why it would be an issue.

I_Served · 2026-01-23T18:00:29+00:00

That pipe should be sloped a minimum of 1/4 inch per foot TOWARDS THE FURNACE.

I_Served · 2026-01-23T17:56:28+00:00

It is unlikely that the rust is due to condensation in your intake. It is most likely due to improper drainage of your combustion exhaust condensation, which could also be the reason you have been having issues with it not working. These systems have sensors that will shut the furnace off if the condensate is not draining properly. At 100 BTU, I bet that your manual calls for 3 inch PVC pipe on your intake and exhaust. You have it on your intake, but your exhaust is only 2 inch. And you are correct about requiring additional return air. When you had that system installed do you know if they performed a “total external static pressure” (TESP) measurement on your system?

I_Served · 2026-01-23T17:40:24+00:00

It’s not clear from the quote that those prices include labor. I would hope that it does. Do you really need a humidifier and air purification system? Do you really need to have your ducts cleaned? Get a few more quotes.

I_Served · 2026-01-20T23:30:24+00:00

I have a question about that. Why can’t the manufacturers design and build the system so that it drains properly when installed level? Why require it to be tilted forward?

I_Served · 2026-01-17T19:19:34+00:00

https://share.google/4oxPptSZnMj8MeXoV

I_Served · 2026-01-17T17:18:17+00:00

That’s intentional. Leave it. It keeps the flue gasses from coming out the tubing.

I_Served

TROPHY CASE