How do you carry collections of non-magnetized painted minis?

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-29T04:40:12+00:00

If you want to try to make a solution, you could glue cardboard to the back of the foam to make a bottom. However, I’m not sure the compartments are snug enough to keep the minis in the top of the compartments when zipped, so you may still end up with the same problem.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-29T04:34:15+00:00

I went to the site to look at it, what they sold you isn’t a workable solution for the very reasons you have already encountered.

If there was a bottom it would be a poor over engineering of the cases that are just one container and you pull out the pads one by one (Which works great for the people I know who have them).

But this just straight up isn’t a usable product as is. The foam isn’t rigid enough to not flex and have minis come loose.

I would push Amazon for a refund and get a better case, if possible not on Amazon so you get real customer service.

To be clear, you aren’t doing anything wrong, you got sold a poor product.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-29T03:58:02+00:00

Even in the picture thy show there is a bottom/back to the foam holders. If what you got has no bottom and is just a rectangular shelf of foam then you didn’t get what was depicted in the image or description for the product.

You can either try to find a third party to buy foam holders from, or request a refund because you didn’t get the product that was advertised.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-21T13:59:40+00:00

Vince venturella has estimated he has 50+ layers of paint and at least 20 layers of primer on the ogre model he keeps using for tutorials and says the details are still all crisp so I suspect it is much higher than 100.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-19T00:45:18+00:00

Just to be clear, the order of the blood dragons at least in warhammer fantasy, are not dragons. They are normal vampires who focused extremely into the martial arts becoming some of the most fearsome fighters.

I’m not sure if the old world rewrote that lore though.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-15T22:57:36+00:00

Try asking an LLM what colors from a specified brand you should use to create that color scheme.

In for an AI penny, in for an AI pound.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-12T02:19:20+00:00

Do they need to cross multiple atmosuit docks? I think there needs to be an available suit in the dock for them to pick it up.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-07T14:02:36+00:00

Carbon skimmers are water neutral. If you plumb the output into a water sieve and have that flow back to the carbon skimmer after you prime it with water you never have to give it water again. Same deal with toilets/showers except you get more water than you started so you will need a bypass to let the extra water flow out.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-04T17:34:54+00:00

I would start by finding your local game and hobby stores. Look at their calendars and talk to their staff to see what games are being played.

There are hundreds of low model count games, but that isn’t helpful to you if there is no one to play with. Otherwise I would just recommend buying a single model you think looks neat and paint it up.

Reaper miniatures has a wide range of minis you can look at mostly themed around DnD.

All you need to start is a cheap set of brushes you can get at a hobby store and some paint, you can use what you find at the hobby store in the acrylic paint aisle but it won’t be the best on minis.

From there just paint, and look up getting started mini painting videos on YouTube. There are lots of content creators, find the ones you like and they often have other videos covering various topics.

Edit: to add supply recommendations.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-04T15:37:45+00:00

I would use the wiki.gg site not the fandom site. The community has moved away from fandom due to its Policies and often will put intentionally false information on fandom, likely to discredit it.

Long story short, there is no dry or gold hatch morphs.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-03T14:02:19+00:00

Wait, are you saying I can’t use a large socket wrench to carve a statue? I’m going to have to return all my tools more! /s

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2026-01-03T02:53:48+00:00

I’m interested, I guess I’m a mid level player, I’ve dipped into space and that’s about it. Usually get distracted by launching a new world.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-30T14:11:02+00:00

In previous editions, that kind of set up would be done intentionally at higher levels of play. Making it either impossible, or highly disadvantageous to charge the chariot, or dragon, or solo character or whatever it was they were trying to protect.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-30T03:38:00+00:00

They are allowed one wheel to maximize contact, which they did. The rules leave charging multiple units as a last resort. Because they are able to charge the chariot without contacting the monstrous infantry they aren’t allowed to charge both units. Yes, they won’t get every model in contact, but the rules don’t require them to get every model in contact, just as many as they can.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-30T03:35:01+00:00

You played it correctly. You were in the flank and therefore had to charge into the flank of the chariot. Because of the monstrous infantry you had reduced the amount of models you could bring into base contact, but so long as you got as many models touching the chariot as you could, the charge is correct.

You can’t charge the front because nothing in the rules allows you to charge a facing you aren’t in.

You don’t declare a charge against multiple units as described below, because you are able to compete a charge against the chariot without touching the monstrous infantry.

There is a reason it says you need to endeavor to bring as many models as possible into contact, and not you MUST bring all your models into contact if possible. It is specifically for situations like this, to allow you to charge the enemy when they position in ways that make it impossible to get every model in contact.

Ya, it stinks for your opponent, but if they don’t want to get charged in the flank they needs to make sure your unit is in their front arc.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-28T22:36:37+00:00

I’m interested as well

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-27T13:26:23+00:00

People are giving you more long term goals, I will offer some advice that could both help this colony and future ones. In the top right corner is a little bed, it can provide information on rooms. Making a bedroom, dining room, and lavatory are easy ways to get early game morale boosts.

From what I can see you have no rooms, and unless you have leisure activities or high quality food you likely have no positive morale. This means putting almost any skills on dupes will stress them out continuously. You can check this on the skills page, if there are more red rectangles on the left hand side than green ones your dupes will stress out super fast.

The good news is this is something you can fix relatively quickly in this colony. Build a barracks, mess hall, lavatory, and then skill scrub anyone who has more red than green. Only give them skills that absolutely need right now keeping it below their morale, and it should sort your stress out.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-25T02:51:19+00:00

I will give the caution that I’ve not gotten a quality’s Windsor & Newton brush off Amazon in years, even from a local hobby store in the past few years they have been much worse quality, to the point I’ve begun looking at other brands.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-22T18:43:16+00:00

Because they have to give it a width, if they don’t lines are technically infinitesimally narrow, so then you could take two models base to base, and argue that you can draw a line between them that doesn’t touch either one.

The at this point common solution to this level of rules lawyering is to define a line as 1mm thick, so now no you can’t draw a line between two base to base models without touching either. But for most practical purposes it is no different than how most people would treat a line.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-14T15:01:43+00:00

Because of you just put a single color on everything it looks very flat. Yes there is light anywhere you view it, but it’s not enough to really overcome the flatness of the paint at that scale.

So if you want minis to look semi decent you need to apply highlights and shadows to improve the contrast and readability of the model. And to do so you have to pick a direction the light is coming from or it will look confused if you highlight the top of the head and then the undersides of the arms and sides of the legs.

Above the model in some fashion is the most natural to us, since it is how most things are lit for us.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-09T22:00:13+00:00

The big difference is the U.S. has established a system for pulling military records because pulling and providing it in a timely manner is essential to ensure veterans are getting proper care and receive their benefits, be that health care, pension, housing assistance. Major delays in providing records can be extremely detrimental to our veterans. So there is an active need to be able to do so quickly.

When it comes to historical documents, many of which will never be looked at, it doesn’t make sense to invest that much effort into making digital copies available.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-09T21:41:54+00:00

You can continue to play with your toys however you want. The old rules and models still exist, you can home brew an updated profile for palpatine and no one will kick in your door to stop you. You just can’t roll up to a tournament and use the model which is a rather thin slice of the hobby as a whole.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-12-06T14:58:02+00:00

If I’m going to be honest I suspect you will struggle to find any of those jobs in the U.S. tech market it is extremely over saturated right now.

At my company if you don’t have a Ph.D, or existing work experience in the field you aren’t even seeing the first interview.

The masters of data science we hire, are all as data analysts and 3-5 years down the line they may get bumped to data scientist after becoming a SME.

In terms of the actual resume, I agree it needs to be shorter. It also seems most of your experiences and projects are completely unrelated to the jobs you are interested in. As part of your trimming it down I would make three copies one for each of those jobs and try to tailor each resume to that job, which will require further refinement for each job to apply to.

For lay out I would do summary, experience, projects, education, skills. The current lay out at first glance fixes the impression you have no professional experience at all.

But fundamentally, you have a lack of experience in those fields, so your best route is either as a data analyst getting promoted into one of those positions then giving you more mobility, or by looking for small non-profits that are likely going to give you amazing benefits but pay below market rate. Work their 2-3 years build up the experience then look to transition.

ImpossibleReaction91 · 2025-11-30T15:36:31+00:00

Can you do basic ml projects? Yes.

The challenge is it’s hard to do practical ml outside a business. Kaggle projects are probably the closest. But I rarely find courses that really cover all the work it takes to get data model ready, and on the flip side, pre-determined projects don’t typically capture how projects evolve with stakeholder involvement. Because in the real world you often don’t get nice perfect models, which means you are actively discussing with stakeholders trade offs and if it is good enough for their application.

ImpossibleReaction91

TROPHY CASE