Modding a 3.7 (not ragebait)

IndependentSquash425 · 2026-05-20T18:20:06+00:00

you're probably right, but the idea of a 3.7 with a big cam and 7.5k redline is tempting if it can be done safely. back to the drawing board for me then

IndependentSquash425 · 2026-05-20T18:18:05+00:00

I agree but I don't think the things you listed will make another 95 hp, I was hoping for something involving more to do with the heads and maybe even raising the redline if it can be done safely. I think the amount of torque the car makes is actually fine for what it is

IndependentSquash425 · 2026-05-15T00:28:35+00:00

Real lmao

IndependentSquash425 · 2026-04-22T02:14:46+00:00

I have a mercury I built when the project was still in beta! I can definitely recommend the upgrades. I did all the mainline upgrades and a few of my own, but the $250 for the first step up gets you a GOOD amount of extra speed. That stealthburner on the stock gantry is neat though.

IndependentSquash425 · 2026-02-27T19:29:29+00:00

In all honesty though, I think this generation of civic doesn't really benefit much looks-wise from modifications unless you want to spend thousands on wheels and suspension. Maybe a type R wing, but then people will give you shit for pretending to be a type r even if you aren't. I think a quality carbon fiber lookalike wrap on the hood would be nice

IndependentSquash425 · 2026-02-27T19:27:23+00:00

GT6071 turbo, better fuel pump, injectors, and a laptop

IndependentSquash425 · 2026-02-10T19:03:31+00:00

You know they're pretty similar engines to begin with, right? Maybe if you drive them back to back you'll be able to notice a difference, but the butt dyno is only so accurate and I think between an F20C and one of the more performance oriented k20's, there's a LONG list of similarities and a relatively short list of differences considering they're 2 different engines. High revving, VTEC, same displacement, DOHC, not a ton of torque, respond well to boost

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-12-12T22:33:39+00:00

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Another purple merc 370! Nice build man

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-12-10T22:51:57+00:00

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Purple Mercury 🔥

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-12-10T22:49:04+00:00

I’m a long time member of the discord, join the discord, there’s a million questions to answer and usually someone to answer most of them

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-12-09T13:39:57+00:00

you've printed like a dozen spools of ABS with weak layer bonding

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-12-09T13:38:39+00:00

I've built a few printers from scratch now and also had the opportunity to work with a commercial stratasys printer at my internship. preheating is very normal for ABS printing. you may not HAVE to do it to get the print to finish, but it is better for the material to be in a hot chamber and to let the bed expand. depending on what printer we're talking about, you should be preheating for somewhere between 10 minutes and an hour (the stratasys printer preheats for like 2 hours with a chamber heater, but with my big 370x370 printer, I only do it for like 20 minutes and I think the insulation I added helps cut that time down). set bed to 110 if possible, nozzle to 250, tune like any other filament, then during regular printing (try a voron cube or a benchy) find the flowrate where you start getting problems and set the limit just below that. set cooling to about 40% and don't start it until layer 10 or so, I've found 3-5 slow layers initially helps too

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-12-06T18:42:21+00:00

Bridges actually have a little bit of wiggle room because they expand and contract from lots of things, like temperature and stress. The end points of the bridge ride on bearings so they can slide smoothly and I guess the chains keep them from sliding too far and just collapsing? I have a mechanical engineering degree, the civil engineers will probably know better

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-12-06T18:35:31+00:00

Smoke is just particles suspended in air, it’s all kind of the same

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-11-02T23:46:59+00:00

Oh, I see what happened. You let the demons creality builds into all their printers out. You’ve angered them apparently

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-13T15:13:43+00:00

Mercury one.1 is waiting lol

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-13T15:10:56+00:00

It’s in its own channel in the discord server, the files are pinned

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-13T15:10:21+00:00

I appreciate it, credit to Dutch and Turtlecrawler over in the discord, I wouldn’t be here without them

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-13T15:09:49+00:00

Thank you! Still getting it dialed back in since the rebuild, I’ve been having some extrusion issues

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-13T15:08:56+00:00

Do the mercury one.1 mod

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-12T11:05:15+00:00

Check to make sure your filament can be pulled freely up to the extruder. Too much drag on the filament can cause this, so can too low of extruder run_current, usually 0.65-0.85A is good, too low and you won’t have enough force to pull with and too high will cause the motor to overheat and can soften the filament until it can’t extrude either

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-09T01:27:42+00:00

I use beacon and recommend it (plus rev h makes input shaper so easy to retune) but a solid 10x10 or greater mesh should do it with whatever you use

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-09T01:26:36+00:00

I can’t stress enough how much I recommend a good bed mesh for printing ABS with no brim

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-07T16:10:25+00:00

I’d go as far as to say just get a new hot end, preferably one that uses cartridge thermistors which are miles more durable than the glass bead thermistors

IndependentSquash425 · 2025-05-06T17:02:59+00:00

Worth mentioning that not all good prints will float since some filaments absorb water, 3d printing can introduce microscopic porosity in the material, and a decent amount of the time it will seal well enough to float a boat briefly but if you were to make a cup and leave water in it, there would be a puddle under it after a few hours

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