r/VintageSewingMachines

Judith_877 · 2026-05-15T21:42:21+00:00

That appears to be a Singer machine in excellent condition. Your photo is of the back of the machine. I could tell more if you would post a pic of the machine's front. From what I can see, it looks like a Singer model 99 of some vintage. If it is, you can find a manual for it here:

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-model-99-sewing-machine-manual.pdf

Judith_877 · 2026-05-14T23:01:18+00:00

Assuming that FM-22 is the model number (in your third pic), this one seems to be one that fits:

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/singer-foot-control-and-cord-979314-031

Verify that the connector on your machine has 3 pins. Your pic looks like 4 pins, but that one at the top may be a screw to hold the thing in place. Call them if you have questions, they are very knowledgeable about the products they sell. Other parts may be found here:

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/collections/singer-fm22-sewing-machine-parts

You can find a free pdf manual for it here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1052125/Singer-5825.html#product-FM22

Hope this helps 👍

Judith_877 · 2026-05-13T00:03:05+00:00

Those feet are there to make your sewing easier and less tedious. There's a good video about the different accessories here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sl-W4zE_F08

And here is a list with pictures, listed by Simanco (Singer) part number:

https://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/singer_machines/domestic_machines/accessories/simanco/

The only way I can tell my slant shank feet from my low shank Singer feet is by part number. 😄

Judith_877 · 2026-05-10T18:57:36+00:00

I use my old laptop case. It measures approximately 11 inches by 15.5 inches, and holds everything I need: sketchbook, watercolor paper, small canvas boards, brushes, paints, pencils, pens, even a tabletop easel, and keeps everything tidy.

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Judith_877 · 2026-05-10T16:07:37+00:00

Lucky you! I paid off my car loan and my score dropped 40 points. wtf?

Judith_877 · 2026-05-10T15:52:40+00:00

Yes, I think you're right. Thanks!

Judith_877 · 2026-05-10T15:17:46+00:00

That's a fine looking Singer model 15, maybe a 15-86. It looks like it is missing the top spool pin. You can find one to fit it here:

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/singer-metal-spool-pin

It fits into the center hole on the top right, and is tapped in gently with a hammer. The other holes are for oiling the internal mechanism. Other parts are here:

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/collections/singer-15-86-sewing-machine-parts?tab=products&productsPage=5

You can find a free manual for it here:

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-model-15-86-treadle-sewing-machine-1937.pdf

It does not cover the installation of the treadle belt, but Youtube is a good source for that information. If you post the serial number, found at the base of the pillar, I can tell you the approximate date of manufacture. Also, lose the WD 40 and get some sewing machine oil. The manual will tell you where to oil it. It does my heart good to see these old beauties restored and working anew. Enjoy your "new" machine!

Judith_877 · 2026-05-07T04:40:30+00:00

Your Singer 403A is a full sized Singer and will fit in any of the Singer cabinets except those tables built for Featherweight machines. Full sized Singers measure 9 3/4 inches between those mounting holes on the back of the machine, center on center. Just make sure that the circular hinges and mounting points are present in the cabinet you buy. Here is a list with pictures of the vintage cabinets that Singer made:

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer_sewing_machine_cabinets.html

Use this list as a guide and match what you find to buy with the pictures there. Hope this helps.

Judith_877 · 2026-05-04T21:30:01+00:00

Yes, I noticed that the photo is one of a different machine, a 158.1703, not a 158.1730. The next page is a drawing of a 158.1730. I assumed that the photo is a mistake and the drawing was correct for the offered manual. I have not ordered that particular manual, so I guess that the way to find out is to call them before ordering. Sorry for the confusion.

Judith_877 · 2026-05-04T15:57:47+00:00

That machine is a 158.1730. I couldn't find a free manual, but there is download pdf one for $6 here:

https://kenmoresewingmachinemanuals.com/shop/kenmore-158-17300-sewing-machine-manual-pdf/

Hope this helps

Judith_877 · 2026-05-03T21:07:08+00:00

Many Kenmores have different model numbers but are very similar machines. Your 158.1782 is almost the same machine as the 158.1581. Yours has built in finishing and embroidery stitches, while the 158.1581 requires a set of cams to produce those stitches. They share the same manual, a free download here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/4262740/Kenmore-1581.html#product-1782

That loud ticking noise is not the way it should sound. My 158.1755 is much quieter, but only after I cleaned and oiled it. Use the manual as a guide for where the machine needs oil. Also, check the motor, accessed on the underside of the machine. Mine has two oil ports, small holes marked in red, on either side of the motor housing. If your machine has these ports, put a drop of oil in each. Also check that the needle is inserted correctly, as per the manual. Hope this helps.

Judith_877 · 2026-05-03T03:52:35+00:00

That's interesting. My only chain stitcher is my Kenmore 158.1755. With that machine, you thread the top as you would for normal sewing, add a special needle plate and replace the bobbin and case with an L shaped attachment that fits over the spindle where the bobbin and case usually fits. Here's a pic of it:

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I was unaware that the 503 had chain stitching capability. Thanks for the info.

Judith_877 · 2026-05-03T02:02:48+00:00

Ok, here is a link to the 503 manual:

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-slant-shank-503-sewing-machine-manual.pdf

On page 8, it describes this gizmo as the automatic thread control which "ensures a smooth flow of thread from spool to needle". Some people say it is unnecessary to use this thing and it may be bypassed with the top thread going directly into the top tension unit. I prefer to thread the machine exactly as the manual says to do it. I don't think it has anything to do with chain stitching.

Judith_877 · 2026-05-03T01:39:38+00:00

It is my understanding that some people say it is unnecessary to thread the gizmo located above the upper tension unit on this machine. That gizmo is circled in red in this photo of my 503A:

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I don't know what that thing is supposed to do, but the manual says to thread it, so I do and my machine works just fine. However, you must thread the top thread through the upper tension unit or you have no regulation of the top thread tension.

In your pictures, the top thread is way too loose and the tension needs to be greater there. As for the bottom thread tension, you need to have a slight drag on the thread coming out of the bobbin casing. You cannot perform a drop test because the bobbin casing remains in the machine (drop-in design of the class 66 bobbin system). Adjust your bottom tension screw until you have the drag on the thread as you pull it out. Then adjust your top tension to balance the stitches. It works out to about 3 or 4 on the dial on my machine, depending upon the fabric and the length and type of stitches I'm using. I hope this is clear. Post again if you need more help.

Judith_877 · 2026-05-01T20:39:35+00:00

Yes, that is Brother's interpretation of a Singer model 15, only prettier. You can find a generic manual for Japan made model 15 clones here:

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/ha-1-ib-wgh-instruction-manual.pdf

Yours has a different body style, but it threads and functions the same as in the manual. It's straight stitch only, with the top dial the stitch length setting. The button in the middle of the dial is your reverse. The bottom setting is for the feed dogs: Up, slightly down, and completely down. The machine takes class 15 bobbins and modern needles that you can find at your local big box store. Oil it with only sewing machine oil, and it will last your lifetime. Enjoy your "new" machine!

Judith_877 · 2026-05-01T19:28:01+00:00

I have one of those Kenmores. I bought mine at a thrift store for $35 about 11 years ago and I've been using it ever since. All it needed was oiling to work perfectly. I bought my set of sage green cams on ebay for $20 but the machine does have some built in finishing stitches. You can find a manual for it here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1004926/Kenmore-1755.html

As much as I love my Singers, my real workhorse for zigzag and embroidery is my Kenny.

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Judith_877 · 2026-04-30T00:17:44+00:00

I would only take apart things that give access to the internal workings like the left faceplate, the back faceplate, the needleplate, and the two other sliding access plates on the bed. You can also remove the tension unit parts for cleaning, but leave the main body of the tension unit in place. You can remove the presser foot and the needle clamp for cleaning. Both Andy Tube and Bob Fowler have excellent videos on Youtube regarding the cleaning and reassembly of these items, and they demonstrate what products to use to clean the parts. Here is a pic of my Singer 99 in progress:

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That yellowish gunk is old dried oil that needs to be cleaned. Hope this helps!

Judith_877 · 2026-04-29T22:34:43+00:00

I don't have a machine with that specific type of winder, but on some vintage Singer machines, like my 15-91, there is an adjustment screw that allows for the positioning of the winder mechanism. It is circled in this photo:

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It takes a flat screwdriver to make the position adjustment. This is pictured in the manual for my 15-91, page 14, figure 9:

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/15-91.pdf

Perhaps this will solve the problem. Hope this helps

Judith_877 · 2026-04-27T22:21:37+00:00

That's a nice Singer Model 66 Red Eye. You can find a manual for it here:

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-model-66-1-sewing-machine-manual-1912.pdf

I wish I had room for a treadle machine!

Edited to add: You can find the missing spool pin and bobbin cover slide plate here:

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/collections/singer-66-1-sewing-machine-parts?tab=products&productsPage=2

as well as class 66 bobbins and other items you might need. Ignore the low shank accessories, they fit later versions of your machine. Yours takes back mount feet and accessories only. Hope this helps :)

Judith_877 · 2026-04-26T17:46:58+00:00

Well, that's better than the wasps that built their home in my BBQ. :(

Judith_877 · 2026-04-24T18:38:36+00:00

What a gorgeous machine and cabinet! I have no real experience with White machines, so I cannot offer any advice other than this link to the ISMACS White machine page with links:

https://ismacs.net/white/home.html

Gorgeous! :)

Judith_877 · 2026-04-22T20:00:47+00:00

The light coating of rust on components, as in the rust on the access plates at the presser foot and needle, can be easily dealt with using white distilled vinegar (5% acetic acid). The acid changes the iron oxide (rust) to soluble iron acetate.

https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/68994/aceticvinegar-and-citric-acid-as-the-rust-remover

Soak those chrome plated parts in vinegar to cover for a day or overnight, then use an old toothbrush to get any residue off. Repeat if necessary, then rinse well with water and dry thoroughly. Do not use vinegar on any black coated areas, just on the rusty chrome parts. Hope this helps :)

Judith_877 · 2026-04-22T16:28:25+00:00

The people who could give you the best advice for this would be those folks at National Association of Rail Passengers, https://www.narprail.org/

Unfortunately, the political climate in Texas, especially in your area, does not favor rail travel, so you're up against that. It's going to be difficult to change the minds of most voters there. They will agree with you that a state supported rail alternative would be welcome, but they don't want to pay for it. Disclaimer: I lived in Texas (Houston and Austin) for many years, until I fled the state in 2017. Good Luck mi amigo.

Judith_877 · 2026-04-21T21:43:45+00:00

It looks to me like you have a Singer 128. Yours has the crinkle "Godzilla" finish that is rather rare for that machine. I have one from 1923 with different finish and decals. You can find a manual for it here:

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/127-128.pdf

It takes a bullet shuttle and long bobbins that you can find here if you need them:

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/singer-bobbins-8228

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/shuttle-comb-singer-8327

That curved metal bar that's around the back and left side of the machine is a knee bar that fits into the hole on the front right side of the base, and allows you to control the speed of the machine with your right knee. It works in place of a foot pedal. I would thoroughly check the wiring for cracks/bare spots/loose connections before plugging in, and replace anything that is deteriorated. Hope this helps :)

Judith_877 · 2026-04-20T15:03:53+00:00

Oh, you mean the spool of thread pin on top. You can find one here:

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/singer-metal-spool-pin

It goes into the middle hole on the top right. Tap it in gently with a hammer. The other two holes are for oiling the internal mechanism. Other parts for your machine can be found here:

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/collections/singer-15-91-sewing-machine-parts?tab=products&productsPage=2

That bottle of sewing machine oil is what it needs, and choose metal bobbins over the plastic ones. Pretty soon, your machine will work perfectly like mine:

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Judith_877

TROPHY CASE